Tuesday, October 20, 2009

August 21st - Africa, Holy F*** I'm Here

I was off the flight from Mombasa, money belt securely in place ... I'm such a 'tourist' ... found my bag and yes, it did seem like it may have been opened along the way (as warned in guide book ...), however, everything seemed to be in place. I had a driver meeting me and I was very happy to see my name on a sign as I came out of the terminal ... out into the muggy heat of the day and then within 5 minutes of being in the taxi and barely getting outside the airport gates, the driver says 'my country is so corrupt' ... ok then, and we're off ...

Driving through Mombasa, my first impression was that I was glad I'd gone to Bali first – different yes, but some similarities ... from the chaos outside the arrivals area, to the traffic chaos and just the sheer humidity and climate. Then there were the differences - the dust and dirt, the number of people and my first glimpses of real poverty and more derelict looking schools than I could have imagined. Then, my taxi driver goes into the gas station and pulls up to the air supply – which I'm surprised by given I've noticed the gas gauge is on E ... - and then he leaves when told the air is not working ... will I get to my hotel?

I was glad to arrive at the hotel – all seemed fine – the front desk staff were welcoming, yet I still found myself trying to actively find my trust while simultaneously getting my negotiating hat back on. After a few hours of relaxation / jet lagged dozing in my air conditioned room with free wifi and more American TV than I've had since I left home (everything from an old hour of The View, to Americas Next Top Model to Al Jazeera, which I have to say sounds and looks a lot like the BBC World News), I headed out to explore. I thought I would go find the hotel where I am meeting the rest of the group tomorrow – see if it really was 5 minutes and I could walk or did I need a taxi.

It was more than a little surreal ... a long road with gated hotels off the side. Packed minivan shuttles careening by, guys practicing soccer in a field, others walking – or just small groups hanging out beside the road or under the tree, mostly men, very few woman. I definitely stand out. I am curious as to what they say when I pass and at the same time am ok not knowing ... As I walked, I was focused on how to be safe – almost every minivan has a guy leaning outside and it definitely gave me pause – yet, I also don't want to the tourist visibly demonstrating fear and clutching my bag as cars or people go by ... After finding the hotel and exploring a little, I got more relaxed on the way back.

For the first time on my travels I am actually feeling proud of myself – people have said before that I've been brave, but I haven't thought anything to date was really above/beyond. This feels different. I am trying to be courageous – and also remembering to just breath and be – I know it also always takes me a couple of days to settle in and this will be no different. Having said that, I'm really looking forward to joining my group tomorrow morning – I don't think I could do this on my own.

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