Rome - The Art ... I'm Overwhelmed

I am not one of those travelers who does a ton of research before I head out to see a place. I know I want to go, have a few ideas of what is there that I want to see, get a guide book and plan to read it on the plane or once there ... Italy and Rome are no exception to that modus operandi – what I knew I definitely wanted to see was the Colosseum, the Vatican and the churches and fountains I'd read and seen in Angels and Demons (I know, me and my pop culture ...). I also knew very little about the history – I like history but have always been more of a fan of 20th century history and have never had a huge interest in what I would call 'old rocks' ... and then the art, well, you can likely sense a theme here but again, I knew nothing ... what defined the renaissance? I didn't know. All the art I really knew were the impressionists ... the easily palatable art ... (I do love and have been many times to the Musee d'Orsay in Paris – my favorite museum in the world).

So what was I doing here? And what was I seeing??? Within a couple of museums, it became clear, I had no idea! I decided the best way to try and tackle the problem (was not to get on my free wifi and wikipedia myself to death ... research, again, not my thing ...) was to pick a couple artists and sculptors and focus on finding their work and seeing what I thought. The artists were Michelangelo (of course), Raphael and Caravaggio and the sculptor was Bernini. I also started to spring for the guided tour or audio tour (though unfortunately not until after St. Peters and the Vatican – a mistake).

I learned the most from the guide at the Galleria Borghese, my favorite museum by far – not large and yet with a collection of the really good stuff. An explanation of the renaissance that resonated (sorry, couldn't resist) and explanations for some amazing paintings that really helped me appreciate them. I realize it is the stories I learn from and he had some good ones to share.

But it is the sculpture that has become a revelation to me – I had no appreciation before but it can be truly quite incredible – the realism and emotion that can come through a brilliant piece of carved stone is incredible to see. There were examples of Bernini's work that just amazed me. I think part of why I appreciate it is the link to architecture, something, again I know very little about, but have always loved. A beautiful church or building or staircase are what I notice – the staircase at the Vatican was almost my favorite part of the museum. (My actual favorite was the Sistine Chapel but only partly for the fresco, the other aspect which struck me was the sea of humanity (read lots and lots of lemmings) which filled the room all serious and quiet, looking up ... that is the image I believe which will most stick with me.)

So my understanding and appreciation for art are growing ... slowly and I'm trying not to get too overwhelmed but rather enjoy what I'm seeing and not worry too much about what I may be missing or not seeing the true beauty of. My plan for Florence is again, just to try and focus on a part of it, not all of it and sign up for the guided tours when ever I can. I will say, the one thing I am most looking forward to now much more than I as before is Michelangelo's David.