Sue's Adventures

May 16th - I Miss My Blog

2010-05-16T22:13:00.001-07:00

I've been missing my blog for a while now .... and so I'm going to try and get back into it, albeit differently than what I was doing before.

I started my blog a year ago when I embarked on my great adventure ... or 'life of reily' as I came to call it at the end ... in the beginning, it was a way to keep my family and friends updated on where I was and what I was doing. It then evolved into my diary, out there for all the world to see, where it wasn't just what I was doing and seeing but how I was feeling and what I was learning about myself. And for technical reasons (not always on line) as well as writing style (I edit a lot), I found that I would fall behind and then need to catch up, so I was posting in batches, almost like chapters of my story. It had it's pluses - I could work for a couple of hours on the roof of the yoga studio in India - but also some minuses - I lost a sense of immediacy with what I was feeling vs. when I was posting and feeling like I couldn't write about today because I had to first finish and post what happened 3 weeks ago.

Having said all that, I did well and captured almost all of my trip .... but then, I arrived back in Vancouver December 2nd and haven't posted anything since. It's been hard (in this and many other things) to integrate the new habits I had formed while on the road into my old habits that just seemed to instinctively back spring to life as soon as I got off the plane. But I've thought about my blog often, especially at the beginning, and now again recently, so I'm going to give it another go.

What's inspired me? Yesterday I had coffee with a friend from high school who I hadn't seen in 25 years ... it was great! We had completely lost touch until a few years ago when we became friends on Facebook and all of a sudden I had a glimpse into her life and she into mine. She still had the same great ironic sense of humour, I love seeing the pictures of her kids and what was really wonderful, was to see her living a life professionally that was so completely in tune with her passions from when she was younger. (I truly admire people who have been able to do that - realize the dreams and passions from their youth.) One of the things we have in common now is that we've both been blogging - though she, much more regularly than I! Talking about it with her made me realize again just how much I've missed it. And she shared with me how she does it - dedicates a period of time and forces herself to write on line - just write it, edit a little and post.

So here goes ... It maybe a little disjointed as while I want to try and post 'in the moment', I also do want to 'catch up' on what I've experienced these last 6 months - I'm not sure if that will be via 'retroactive' postings or reflections ... we'll just have to wait and see!

In the meantime, I'm posting this live and I have to say, it's nice to be back!

November 11th - Perfect Last Days In India

2009-11-29T18:00:00.000-08:00

Normally, when I'm close to leaving a place, my mind goes into accelerated forward planning mode: when will I pack, how long will it take, when am I scheduled to leave, what will I do my last day and when – almost down to 30 minute increments. Basically, way, way, way to much in the future in my head ... and I miss out on actually enjoying the time I have left in a place. This time however, about a week before leaving, I decided to just try and be and fully enjoy the last week – I had the taxi and train booked and by now, I pack quick, so really what else was there – so I continued on present in my lovely Rajpur life and haven't thought ahead – and it's been wonderful.

When it got down to my last two days – and I was surprised to realize it – I also decided to keep my routine 'normal' right to the end – I could have gone into town and done some gift shopping (sorry guys ...) or had a last meal out or seen a temple I hadn't yet visited but that wasn't the energy I wanted. I wanted to enjoy the peace and serenity of this quiet life for as long as humanly possible.

So the second to last day was a last class with Swati – a great class and the back bends had me feeling particularly alive after! Followed by breakfast at Amdo's – it was a larger group than normal – nice but almost a little forced – not as relaxed as it's been when it was a smaller number of regulars there catching up on the class and the day. A little internet time and then – to the roof! My favorite writing spot is the pergola on top of the yoga studio – it is like sitting on top of the flowers of the garden, surrounded by the hills and the most beautiful breeze wafts in. Then practice – I've found a practice while here – I go and depending on what else I've done that day, my mood, the right practice seems to come to me / flow. I still have a huge amount to explore and grow with it and I'm very happy to be at this point as I leave. Then Laura and I wandered down the main Rajpur road – we had some errands (sweets and samosas) and also a little shoe shopping to do (even in India I can find shoe shopping!) and had the most lovely (written just for her ...) time – she has this lovely light, bright energy and we laugh a lot. A final relaxed dinner with Gavin and Laura, some writing and bed – the back pack still in it's corner.

The last day and in some ways it doesn't feel like I'm leaving at all – in other ways, I'm good to go. We had a great class with Rajiv this morning – he was at his inspirational best – yoga is about finding the light within and I do glimpse it – a final shavasana like trikonasana that had us all in a very special place at the end. I then had a lovely treat – breakfast in one of the other houses – it was a beautiful spot with a quiet garden amongst fields with flowers and the hills. It turned into a few relaxed hours of good conversation in the sun – and as I realized it was my last day in the sun (I've been in the warm sun everyday since the beginning of May and next stop is London in November) I risked overstaying my welcome to soak it up - literally! A final practice – distracted with people coming and going to say goodbye – a final sync at the internet, a final samosa and chai and a lovely final dinner with Gavin and Laura – Laura and I had the giggles – and poor Gavin, looking at the two of us 'vatas' and our 'lightness' – he said it was like watching two helium balloons float off in the ether ... I've been incredibly lucky with housemates and I will miss the dinners!

I saw Gavin and Laura off, made a final cup of tea, sat and enjoyed the last of the candles, looking at the sky and was just grateful – very, very grateful. I had no idea coming what this experience would bring me and it just surpassed my expectations in all possible ways. I have this joy inside and a full heart – and now maybe, I'm just ridiculously blissed out on 7 weeks of yoga and pranyama (entirely possible) but it's more than that. I feel love. Love for everything – the sky, the animals, the people I've met – a love to be alive and living this incredible life – my inner effulgence is I think what Rajiv would call it ... so a few tears – happy ones – and now I am looking at all the stuff in my cupboard and my empty back pack ... time for Kleenex, some music, a little dancing round the room and packing up ... then on to my next port of call.

November 9th - Vata, Pita, Kapha ... What Am I?

2009-11-29T17:52:00.000-08:00

For this second course, we've been studying Ayurveda as well as yoga. Ayurveda is the ancient Indian medical science – a sister science to yoga - and another that Patanjali was one of the first to document over 5,000 years ago. So for the first half of the course, Rajiv has been introducing Indian philosophy and the basics of Ayurveda to us – it's been fascinating and thankfully we're staying high level so I think I'm getting it ... For the second half, we've had an Ayurvedic Dr. here who has taken us a level deeper (I'm trying to keep it simple, but it's incredibly complicated ... learn a little, think I understand, learn more and get really confused ... apparently an essential part of learning ... and in which case, I'm on the path to great learning ...)

So what is it? My simplification – at an incredibly crude level – there are three 'types' which describe personality, traits, body type etc. and everyone is composed of elements of all three but will have one or two of the types be dominant. The very basic definitions – Vata: cold, light and airy; Pita: hot, firy and medium; and Kapha: cold, heavy and solid. And then the challenge is to be in balance with your individual mix of the three types – with what you eat being a key contributor to finding that balance – and being in balance, helping to prevent disease. There is a lot of the science that is resonating with me ... such as how, when disease is present, it attacks the weakest parts of the body and that is where symptoms come up – but they can be quite distinct from the disease ... so when diagnosing, the trick is to identify the underlying disease to be able to 'turn that facet off' of what ever is creating the disease versus simply treating the symptom.

The Dr. is also doing personal consultations with each of us – mine was today and it was fascinating ... he read my pulse for a long time ... so long, I half wondered if he could find it ... then intuitively he knew where my weak points were (thought I'd had an accident in my lower back). And then the diagnosis ... Vata followed by Kapha – I was surprised as I had expected Kapha Vata – others weren't surprised at all ... In many ways they are most opposite – airy, quick, lite versus slow, steady, solid – but it actually helps explain some of my dichotomies (of which I have a number ...). What really helped was understanding the link between the two types combined with the impact of food. I am in balance as Vata, but it is easy for me to go out of balance (which makes sense) and when that happens it is my Kapha being aggravated (I think ...). So he kept saying I needed to be careful with what I eat – the advantage of Vata Kapha is I can eat pretty much anything – but it is how moderately I eat it ... and my relationship with food can be summarized well by the expression, “when I'm good, I'm very good but when I'm bad, I'm just awful ... :-) The yoga and exercise are also critical (which I also know) – his rule, yoga/exercise in the morning, or I'm not allowed lunch ... and I know that when I eat well and exercise I feel good – and doing the one encourages the other. When I'm not feeling as well – or in balance – then my bad eating habits come out, I lose energy in exercise and the spiral starts to tilt down. There is also a link with the types and the seasons ... also something I've experienced – I often naturally do well in the fall (when Vata dominates) and it's easier for me to be out of balance in the winter (when Kapha dominates) ... For me, the question will be this winter and how I'm able to get through it – I already knew this was going to be my test and hopefully now I have a few more tools to help me successfully go through it. The links that I knew intuitively are now more concrete, which somehow makes it more tangible and manageable. I feel much more confident.

And then when we would get confused, the Dr. and Rajiv would come back to their net, net ... eat when you're hungry, drink when you're thirsty and sleep when you're tired – and of course, when they say this, the food is healthy and the drink is water ... :-)

November 8th - I'm Really, Really Happy

2009-11-29T17:47:00.000-08:00

To coin one of my phrases, today was truly lovely. All day I've felt happy – I've had this smile – almost like a secret smile between me and the world. With the one exception of talking to Expedia where I got annoyed and hung up ... clearly, still need to work on the anger thing – and I think the trick is in my approach – how do I start the conversation? Am I expecting to be annoyed or optimistic that they want to and will be able to help me? Laura provided me with a real reminder of the power of approach – she goes in assuming the best and people respond – it's a positive place to be. She and I had dinner on our own tonight as Gavin was out with the other teachers – and we shared our usual laughs.

Afterward, I realized just how happy I was – the only expression I could come up with was 'I am in love with life' – and it does honestly feel that way. It is a real feeling, in my chest, in my heart. Before when I've felt anxious, I get this 'pit' feeling above my stomach right below my rib cage. But this is a full feeling right in my chest – in my heart – a sense of expansion. I'm sure some of this is due to all the yoga 'pudding' I've been dining out on these last 7 weeks (Rajiv's expression for the good feeling you can get from yoga, the science). And I honestly believe it is more than that – an ease, a contentment, an openness, a joyfulness - that's the word – I feel joy – I'm laughing out loud – I'm happy, really, really happy. And I feel open to the possibilities of the future and I believe in the possibilities of the future. I have emotion in my throat and tears in my eyes as I write this. As I said, I'm in love with life.

I was in Bali last November and I had a very strange experience towards the end of my time there. I met a man, Indian man actually, in an internet cafe and we started chatting – it went from simple discussion of the web to him reading my hand ... He was very intuitive and correct on a number of things in my past and present but with regards to my future, he wasn't optimistic. The basic message seemed to be that I had to do something radically different and soon or I was not going to have a happy life – I would continue down the path I was on – and prior to that year, in truth, I hadn't been really, really happy. I only told one person about this experience – I just locked it away and haven't thought about it until just now. It is only as I reflect on where I am now that I wonder – have I done enough? have I changed enough? will my future be different than he predicted? You can gufaw and chuckle and think what a load of huey ... and 9 times out of 10 I'd be right there with you ... but now, the way I'm feeling right now, I think I have – I see a path of where I want to go, how I want to live my life, what I want to feel – it will take work and effort for me to get there and I have no doubt, it will be hard at times. But I'm ready – I know I'm ready to be really happy – and I know the effort is worth it. Bring on my life.

November 6th - I Swam In The Ganga ... A Great 'Day Out'

2009-11-29T17:39:00.000-08:00

Today took me back to elementary school – we had a 'field trip' ... the day started at 6.15am, loaded up into two buses with our 'bus leaders' ... and we were off. First stop – a temple, up, at the very top (5,000 ft approx.) of a long twisty road on a hill above Rishikesh – with amazing views of the Himalayas – again, wow. The only slight hiccup ... no washrooms ... and I was desperate ... so with a kind look out service, I found a bush – very happy, until I pulled my clothes up ... and realized I had a bottom full of thorns ... literally ... in all layers of clothing, everywhere ... the lesson, look behind as well as in front ... :-)

Then to Rishikesh itself ... and swimming ... the town is right on the Ganga and above the town, the water is incredibly clear so off we went ... we found a spot on a beautiful bit of the river, clear blue green water with amazing sand – soft and white. A few of the guys were right in and another woman and I wanted to go in ... however, custom dictated we be fully clothed ... and neither of us had brought extra bottoms ... agh because for some reason, I really wanted to go in ... but with a little creative borrowing, we solved the problem and I had the most amazing 5 minutes in the river. For cold water, I am normally a dip your toe in kind of gal and go in, if at all, very slowly, an inch at a time – but here, I was in, in 10 seconds flat and happy as a clam! Unfortunately, we were short on time so it was a very quick dip, change and then we were off. But – again, wow – just an amazing experience! I could have happily spent the day just there – I will be back.

Late, we then rushed through Rishikesh to our second stop ... only to discover that we had an hour there. Rishikesh is the mecca for yoga with what seemed like every second building offering classes or teacher training. So there was lots of explore and I had absolutely no desire. The town is definitely smaller and more manageable than others but there are also more 'touts' – all wanting you to buy something and not taking a polite no for an answer – my least favorite energy. The streets were busy and there were a remarkable number of other westerners – so while I'm sure you can find the quieter parts of the town and hang out, I was glad I'd made my earlier decision not to come between courses. Instead a few of us found a cup of tea and a few minutes of peace before realizing we were late again and boogying off to meet the bus. We were on a definite schedule – but the next stop was key ... lunch - we'd been warned there would just one meal and by then, it was early afternoon and I (and I have to believe everyone) was starved. The lunch didn't disappoint – delicious – two helpings nicely satisfied my craving for palak paneer before I leave :-) and then a lovely musical interlude in a garden on the banks of the Ganga – hard to go wrong.

Our final destination was Haridwar – first up a gondola to some temples, one of which was for Hanuman, the god of breath – just a little relevant for yoga ... I had a blessing and it was special – I don't know why exactly but it was, I felt something. Then it was a repeat of the sunset puja I'd seen before ... though somehow after 7 weeks in India I could appreciate it much more. And at the same time, money came back into play ... I had a small basket of flowers to offer and so you're meant to go put your basket (with a candle and 2 sticks of incense burning) in the river – but then these guys take you down and ask questions as if to bless or pray with you and then say, just as you're about to put the flower in ... minimum 100 or 200 rupees ... huh??? I didn't have any small money e.g. 10 or 20 rupees so I said I had no money – needless to say, the guy wasn't particularly happy but at least he left me alone. And so I did get a chance to offer my private prayer and send the flowers off. It was cool.

It was an absolutely action packed ,whirlwind of a day – brilliant stops and so very different experiences all crammed in. A final bus ride home with more songs and the perfect end to a really lovely day. Thank you Rajiv and Swati.

November 2nd - Susan vs. Sue

2009-11-29T17:29:00.000-08:00

Growing up and with my family I was always Susan ... except for one brother to whom I've long been Sue (I can still see the poster he did for me when I was reluctantly running for student council president – very simply ... Vote for Sue ...) Then in university, through one friend I met the first week, I became Sue – and then in London, my first friends were from university, so I was Sue socially. I've always been Susan at work – except for one manager to whom I became Sue naturally. Back in Vancouver I was Susan – though ever since my niece and nephew were born, I've been Auntie Sue (my favorite title – and Auntie Susan? Nope, not me ...) and so now increasingly I'm Sue with the rest of my family ... except for my mother ... I've never been Suzy or Suzy-Q ... and if you know me, it's pretty clear why ... though I'm Suz to an Uncle who can get away with it :-)

At this point, by all rights you will be wondering – just how schizophrenic am I ... I'm not honest ... but I have been wondering over the last year, just what is in a name? I was Susan in Africa and seriously considered introducing myself as Sue in India ... almost to test the theory – which name am I? But missing orientation killed that idea as I then just instinctively introduced myself as Susan. But then naturally, I became Sue to a few people here.

I like being called Sue – it is more informal and in many ways more me right now – will I ever introduce myself as Sue, I'm still not sure – but I do like and appreciate it when people call me that – it's almost like they see a little more of the real me ... either that or they just like giving people nicknames :-) Though with my French friends I'll stick with Susan – sounds much nicer than Sue with the accent! And then I wonder, to what extent does it matter? Does it need to be one or the other? The answer to both - not much and no ... Other than keeping straight who I am when sending emails, any name is good ... other than maybe 'hey you' ...

So really what is in a name? If nothing else, hopefully a slightly amusing blog post ... :-)

October 31st - This Yog Is For Me

2009-11-29T16:53:00.000-08:00

I do agree with Rajiv – though as he would say, it is not a question of agreeing but simply of understanding fact – yog is about personal transformation. I started five years ago for the body – I wanted to get in better shape and needed something that would help give me balance. And it was the perfect excuse for the weekly Saturday brunch with a very good friend that followed :-) Over the first couple of years, the yoga shifted from being about brunch to actually being about the yoga and then two years ago, I realized I wanted to find the ever illusive 'quiet mind'.

One of Rajiv's topics for today's asana class was ease ... and the example of the older woman who may look 40 from the front but 90 from behind ... and as he say's “that's after the facelift but before they start botox ...” The message is clear – we need to be at ease with our age and our bodies and in our lives. And I am increasingly finding that ease ... I am more calm ... and it is lovely.

Not always though ... like when I get to be Swati's example of what not to do in an asana, then my ego is definitely alive and kicking, together with my pride for my teachers at home – they don't deserve the “this is the problem with how you are being taught in the west” label ... as I say about this blog, this reflects only me, not anyone else ... and yet I feel like I am letting them down ... that need to please, pride, ego, recognition ... all normal human emotions ... and yet I am so much happier when I can let them go ... and truly be at ease. The good news, I'm becoming more present and aware of when I'm not at ease ... when I've been in an ugh, ugh, ugh moment, and I tell my self to breath – just breath and try to find the calm in the breath, remarkably enough I found it, felt calmer and again, more at ease. So how do I keep this sense of ease outside of Rajpur? One of Rajiv's other lessons is how the mind is hungry for inputs – and in our search for the quiet mind, a fundamental tool is how we control what is 'input' – through all 5 of the our senses. Something I completely get - and prompts good questions for life at home ...

So I'm definitely feeling on this path of transformation, and I have to thank both Swati and Rajiv, but especially Rajiv. Why? Well, I've started typing this sentence 5 times ... how do I summarize Rajiv? ... dedicated – yes, opinionated - yes, single minded – absolutely, open – not always, passionate – without a doubt, belief in what he's teaching and it's importance – unquestioned. I've so enjoyed his classes – this mixture of asana and talks – always with a message, inevitably an expression I wish I could remember afterward and so often these pearls of wisdom that I reflect on further. I've also learned from Gavin just how much his teaching is based on that of Prashant (Mr. Iyengar's son) whereas Swati teaching is based on Geeta's (Mr. Iyengar's daughter). Geeta has taken the precision of Mr. Iyengar's work forward whereas Prashant's focus is more philosophical and strongly incorporates the breath. Unfortunately it seems that many western teachers, and often women, gravitate to Geeta's style – and I've seen it myself in that most teacher's I've had mention Geeta but I've rarely if ever heard Prashant mentioned. I'm hoping that changes because while the teaching of Geeta is critical, it is Prashant's, through Rajiv, which I've found most illustrative and transformative.

So why the heading for this blog? Prior to this retreat, people have asked me if I want to teach yoga and I haven't been sure – it didn't jump out at me but I didn't discount it either. I said that I thought this course would help me answer that question. There are aspects of teaching that I enjoy – I do tend to study the yoga – my way of practicing – but it is not my passion in the way it is for the teachers I respect – and the way I discovered in Africa that math is for me. I get a huge amount out of yoga personally but I don't get nearly as excited by it as I do explaining multiplication or quadratic equations (crazy I know ...) – and I know to be a good teacher, which of course is what I'd want to be, I need to have a passion for what I teach. So I think that answers that question – this yog is for me, for my ongoing personal journey and transformation. To help me live the kind of life I want to live and be the person I want to be. To live my live with grace, gratitude, generosity, openness and love. And I'm very happy with it this way.

October 29th - "Local" Days

2009-11-29T16:42:00.000-08:00

In many ways, today was just like any other day – asana class in the morning, special muesli with the group and some writing, followed by time on the internet. But what made the day different was that I finished my last two posts for my Africa chapter of my blog and then uploaded all my Africa blog postings – yeah – I was done! I have been working hard at this for the last two weeks and it feels really good to get it done. I celebrated by heading into to town and getting a very, very long overdue pedicure! A week ago, I'd been waiting for the bus into town when a woman stopped and offered me a lift. She spoke good English and we discovered quickly she also had ties to Vancouver – she and her husband had visited and had their permanent residency but hadn't yet decided to move. She ran a local beauty salon / school where she trained hearing impaired students to be beauticians who then staffed the salon before moving on to other jobs.

Anyway, I'd been meaning to go by for a few days, as after effectively 4 months in flip flops and no pedicure after Africa, my feet were a disaster – heel cracks closely resembling the Grand Canyon ... The treatment was lovely – I have happy feet again! I also had the chance to talk to her and one of the staff – the receptionist, who was studying to be an aeronautic engineer and will be off to Scotland in a few years to further her studies – I thought this was great. And an interesting discussion on how India is developing, especially for women – people no longer have time for the full week wedding celebrations – maybe 2 or 3 days max – or even married in a courthouse ... arranged marriages decreasing - “love is in the air” I think was her direct quote! I also flipped through an Indian edition of Glamour – what struck me? the advertisements for skin lightening treatments – the lightness of the skin of the models – as Rajiv said on another occasion, "do these models look Indian?" They didn't in this magazine either. And then the fashion spreads – I wasn't sure where some of these clothes would be worn with the degree of leg, arms and cleavage being shown ... certainly not in Rajpur or Dehradun ... I'm getting more curious to see Dehli ... just how modern is India getting? And where? And is modern really the right word - I think western might be more accurate ...

The next day, I went back to Purkal – an organization in a nearby village started by a retired couple. It is quite incredible ... they have two operations ... one is a center for woman where they teach them to quilt, facilitate their production of quilts and other products and essentially provide them with economic independence. The second operation is a school for local kids where they directly provide education to the younger kids and then support the education of the older children e.g. pay school fees, provide uniforms and clothes for the cold, two meals a day and a place where they can come after school to continue their studies. It is quite amazing and again, I'm so impressed with the kids – they are bright, curious, and appreciative of the opportunity – with great smiles and laughs. We had been here the first term with the full group but this time just 3 of us went and it allowed us to learn much more about the organization's programs as well as spend time with the kids. It reminded me of how much I enjoyed Africa – getting to know the kids and contributing something to their development. Overall, it is an experience I want to repeat – be it Africa or India or somewhere else - for at least 3 months – to see the development and become more a part of the local community. Though when I learned that the year 10s were doing calculus, I realized I might have to brush up on a few math skills first ...

So all in all, both were great days – and I appreciated getting a little closer to the local life in India. There is so much to learn and I have so many questions ... won't all be answered this trip ... just more to continue to discover when I return.

October 27th - Me & Money

2009-11-29T15:28:00.000-08:00

I do have a funny relationship with money and it's something I've been thinking about recently. I have memories growing up of never wanting to ask my parents for money ... the example that always jumps out is dreading to ask my mom for the cheque for ballet. And I honestly don't know why I had this feeling – it was never anything they did – they were always very supportive and happily wrote the cheque – it was entirely in my head. And somehow it is still linked to my current attitude with money ... I know I can be cheap – and here, especially in the second term, I've gotten very cheap ... almost as if it is a contest to see how cheaply and by default simply I can live? It's like I don't need anything more than the very basics – breakfast out, quick internet sync, dinner of dal, rice and a veggie and a cup of tea after. I don't feel the need to buy the different nice beans or the dessert or the chilis or extras and wouldn't if it was just me. And when others do, I have this momentary – why?? Is it really necessary?? And then I try the chick peas ... and I enjoy them and the variety from the usual dal ... and the chutney is tasty ... and I certainly don't turn down the sweets for dessert ... so why do I have even the momentary thought of why? I don't know. And the irony, what became the after dinner ritual with both Richard and Gavin and Laura of after dinner tea and sweets, I really enjoyed and wouldn't have changed. I didn't need it but I enjoyed it.

Some of it is about control – and reinforced with my budget and how I'm tracking my spending (yup – xls file with many tabs and some might say, a slightly excessive level of detail ...) but control of what, again I'm not sure. Watching my spending has also been interesting – definitely providing more restraint and some good questioning of what do I really need ... yes, I can live simply and I do not need a lot. And at the same time, I don't want to give a false impression of me and austerity ... my mother taught me the important lesson of buying quality ... and I do like nice things, as my shoe collection will testify. Money sainthood does not live here. And it is a good thing to be more conscious of my money – something I've avoided in the past – so something definitely to take forward – and at the same time, try and understand a few more of the whys in what I do ...

Another money related thing I've found disconcerting in India has been feeling like I need to stay alert to getting taken advantage of ... whether it's a creative attempt to get another 50 rupees a night for the room I was in the first term, or the rapidly disappearing soap or rice ... it doesn't help my trust ... and my instinct goes to start with suspicion, which is often not proved valid ... and so why not start with assuming the best? Even if proved otherwise, how much is it really – and isn't it worth it? And yet, I have this visceral, blood boiling reaction when I think I'm being taken advantage of ... but what does it really give me? How much is it really? Again, how do I want to live my life? It's my choice, and the answer when put like that is easy ... with more generosity and with the ability to ask for what I want – financial or otherwise.

October 25th - Socks With My Birkenstocks ...

2009-11-16T10:37:00.000-08:00

I know I promised I wouldn't but I have a good reason, honest ...

The alternative title for this blog was 'I finally found the perfect weather' ... but I thought the Birkenstocks comment might be a little more entertaining ... but really, it is all about the weather ...

The rainy season with it's hot and muggy weather lasted about a week ... we had a couple of good thunderstorms ... I love the rain – it brings out the smells of the garden and clears the air – and if only it drowned rather than breeded the mosquitoes, would be quite perfect!

And then it turned into was has become my perfect dream weather ... gorgeous clear blue skies, day after day after day – crisp and energizing in the mornings, cool in the evenings and bright and warm (e.g. high 20s) during the day. Perfect for yoga in the morning, to sit and read/write in the afternoon and wonderful for sleep at night. Absolutely perfect. And the icing on the cake, these wonderful breezes (the wind is my favorite element – nature's air conditioner and perfect whether giving relief to the sun and the heat or whipping up a blustery storm that can push you along with it's power at the side of the ocean or in the middle of a field). I do realize I'm going on a bit rapturously (5 perfects so far) ... but after all my travels, especially in the warmer climates, I've become a bit of a connoisseur ... like the littlest of the three bears searching for the weather that is "juuussst right" - and this, for me is that :-)

And now the weather is continuing to change ... still fundamentally the same with the blue skies day after day, now just that little bit colder in the mornings and at night ... for the first time in over 4 months, I have been cold – yeah!!!! If I have to choose between too cold and too hot, I'll go with too cold – much easier to add a second or third layer (e.g. socks) than take off the first ... well I suppose it depends on the company :-)

October 25th - 2nd Term ... This Tortoise's Head is Pulling In

2009-11-16T09:51:00.000-08:00

Walking around Rajpur the last few days, I started to see new 'foreign' faces ... has to be new students ... the reality of the 2nd term starting is at hand ... Orientation was the afternoon before the first class – I had missed it last time and was curious to experience it. Turned out to be pretty straight forward – name, country, how many years studying and with whom. There were 45 people this term – the hall was full to the extent I couldn't see about a third of the faces down the same side. Another very international crowd – the usual Brits, some Americans, Australians and then Polish as well as Columbian, Malaysian, Brazilian. I continue to be grateful that I already know people and am not starting from scratch.

I hadn't yet met my new housemates and when they introduced themselves, I couldn't see their faces so after the session, it was a bit of a guessing game as to who they might be ... we connected and they are lovely – Gavin is English, an Inyengar teacher as well as a marine scientist (really not sure on the details here ...) living in the UK and Laura is Italian living in London learning English.

A few days in and the routine is emerging ... different from the first term as there are no more naps required and instead I am focused on my blog and getting to practice each day. I still go to Amdo's for breakfast and am enjoying getting to know the new people that have discovered it. I'm also discovering places to write – I still enjoy my outdoor kitchen but I've added to it with the woman's center (they provide training to local women in baking and sewing and then sell the products) which has a good little cafe with amazing views over the valley and my favorite, the pergola on the roof of the yoga center which has incredible views of the valley and Swati's garden and the most amazing gentle air that just breezes by. I'm writing about 3 hours a day, enjoying it and feeling very productive - almost like I am at 'work' – a little surreal to say the least ... and also reassuring :-)

The yoga has been great – there are similarities to how the first course began, but more often, it seems like we are starting from where the last course ended, especially in the pranyama. Rajiv used this great analogy for pranyama the other day - that of a tortoise ... we arrive at class very much 'head out' and then through the breathing, the head goes in and we achieve a very different state (“yoga pudding” is one of his descriptors I like) ... and then class ends and the head starts to reemerge. I've found the analogy also works for me with the 2nd Term - my 'head' is pulling in. At the start of the 1st term I felt a need to get to know people, socialize and be part of the group – to an extent that surprised me. But this term, I don't have that same need at all. I'm much more comfortable on my own, being with me and I'm finding the days are much more about me, my reflections, what I want to do. So, other than the hello/good bye with people before/after class, my breakfast at Amdo's, connecting at practice or the internet and dinner with Gavin and Laura – I'm good. It's a nice balance. I also know it is largely due to the regularity and intensity (more intense than we think) of the yoga and pranyama – and I am loving the head space that it is putting me in.

October 21st - My Yoga 1/2 Way Through

2009-11-16T09:36:00.000-08:00

The expectation here is that in addition to the classes, students will practice on their own during the afternoons. It wasn't until over half way through the course that I made it to self practice – as I was just getting back into yoga, the first two weeks, the classes were more than enough. My own self or home practice is something I've struggled with ever since I started doing yoga – I just haven't been able to find a rhythm at home – or a space. When I have done it, I find I struggle to know 'what to do next' or else do the same routine of poses and get bored ... finding my own intuition of the poses has been hard, especially combined with the fact that there are, if not rules, then strong suggestions of how poses should be sequenced that I just don't know. I would like to learn – taught might be the more accurate word as of course - I'm sure if I picked up a book I could find out but somehow, I just haven't got there ...

My understanding of the importance of self practice has shifted dramatically – mostly as I realize the difference between 'class' and 'practice' – 'class', especially Iyengar I believe, is just and only that, 'class' whereas 'practice' is personal – doing the asana that you need to do when you need to do it. Per Rajiv, every time you step on the mat, you are different – it is a different time of day, time, you are in a different place mentally, physically, spiritually – and therefor, your practice needs to be different – is mobility or stability more important? Do you need to be grounded, energized or calmed? Etc. etc. The challenge is understanding yourself enough in the moment and then doing the asana that is right for you in that moment. And that is what I'm trying to explore and practice – especially here where I have access to this wonderful space. At the beginning, I definitely struggled ... 'what to do' ... and so I'd look to others for ideas ... and eventually I started to get a feel ... I've been everyday during the break and enjoyed it – look forward to going and have this space, clarity and spring in my step walking home. I'm looking forward to continuing to explore my practice in the 2nd term and taking advantage of the space (literal and figurative) right from the beginning.

In terms of what I'm “working on” - I've had a couple of realizations over the first term. Keeping my back straight (versus hunched) and chest open is my challenge – there is no doubt. I'm getting better but it is going to take time. Also, how I stand – well lean more descriptively – very forward on my toes – upper thighs / groins forward versus back – something to be conscious of and try and shift. And then there is my lower back and the price it seems to have paid thanks to my posture ... usually convex or concave, very rarely straight ... which has to contribute to my lower back pain in certain poses. And some of those poses aren't my faves – and funnily enough, they also seem to have an open chest in common e.g. backbends, suptavirasana, setu bandha ... highlights the age old question – do I do what is easy and I like or do I do what is more challenging but I need ... I'm ready to work more on the former.

And finally pranyama ... the breathing ... something I've long struggled with and was looking forward to spending time on. Rajiv teaches most of the pranyama classes – and they are unlike anything I've done before. The first term has been almost exclusively about “long, slow, deep exhalations” while in restorative asanas – more comparative yoga – encouraging us to increase our awareness and understanding of the breath in different poses. I struggle – to find the really deep breath versus my more shallow and to find the rhythm of the breath. I've been exploring this during practice – to just witness my breath – and I realized that when I've practiced on my own, I count my breath as a way to know how long to be in a pose – so now I'm trying to stop counting and just witness ... and what I find myself witnessing, is not necessarily my breath, but my mind wandering (at times best described as a whirling dervish) ... ah yes, that quiet mind – so elusive.

The good thing is, I am becoming much more aware of 'my' practice and I still have another 3 weeks to continue to grow the awareness as well as experiment and play with it – and hopefully feel the effect on my body, my breath and my mind.

October 18th - The Break Between Courses

2009-11-16T09:28:00.000-08:00

I have 5 days off before the next course starts and ever since I arrived, I've been trying to decide what to do ... actually hesitating might be the better word. Initially I decided to stay in Rajpur for a couple of days to experience Diwali and then head to Rishikesh. Rishikesh, an hour away, on the Ganga and been called the 'home' of yoga with many ashrams, yoga classes, teacher training – yoga wise, you name it, they have it. I also heard it was a good place to just hang out and relax. All seemed good, I even had a line on places to stay. But then, this hesitation was just lingering away in my gut – it was twofold – I'm so enjoying the personal sense of quiet that I've found in Rajpur, I don't want to lose it in a bigger city and two, I don't think I want to go on my own ... and if I'm honest, that's the bottomline. India and all of it's people, traffic and noise still intimidates me ... and so part of me says that that is then why I should go ... but two days before I was to go, I decided not to – and immediately, my gut felt right. It's the right decision for me right now.

So I stayed in Rajpur and hung out ... up, breakfast, internet, writing/ reading, practice in the afternoon, dinner, (cooked my own stir fry ... and it was good!) reading/ writing and bed. Perfect. I was missing either a little human connection or pop culture and so found a book in the room to read ... pure trashy Sydney Sheldon fiction ... made me think of my Grandmother ... I was done in 24 hours and will admit, as embarrassing as it might be, it hit the spot! And then I got serious ... I did actually – with my blog. I realized that I had a huge amount of work still to do on Africa, let alone India, and the time was rapidly passing. So I buckled down and got focused. I can be the queen of procrastination at times … it's an art form I've perfected ... However, I am also a pro and hitting the deadline, a little like a bulls eye dart shot ... really just in time ... but it is not necessarily a great way to work – to say the least. I know it is part of 'who I am' so I'm realistic about how much I'm really going to change ... but I would like to see if I can practice being a little more focused and productive. I tell you, not having wifi immediately to hand definitely helps. I'm also realizing that I will flip to something else when something is blocking me with what I'm trying to do in the minute ... so the challenge is knowing when I truly need space from the task versus just pushing through. I was halfway though Africa by the time the break ended – and it felt good.

I've thought many times this last week how very lucky I am to be able to stay for two courses – I am so not ready to leave yet. It took me time to settle in and I feel like I have been hitting my stride in the second half of the course – and just want to continue to ride this wave I'm on and see where it takes me. I'm enjoying it so much I've even has these crazy thoughts of could I stay and just be here for 6 to 8 months? It is a great place to write ...and that amount of time from a yoga perspective would truly be trans-formative ... realistically, no I couldn't ... and yet, if I really wanted to, yes I could – not the way I normally think about what I would normally consider 'way out there' possibilities ... feels like I am opening and expanding my mind about what really are the options and possibilities ... kinda cool.

The only downside of this time is that I am sad to see people leave – it's been a really good group – nice, fun, interesting people from all over – great energy in the room. The good news is that 12 of us staying on for the next course – and as they are lovely people who I really enjoy the company of, I'm grateful – it will be nice to have that basis of familiarity for the second course. Richard unfortunately, is not one of those staying – he is back to his family and real life in Israel – with a significant amount of shopping completed! He knows India so well and was prepared to take full advantage of it while here ... everything from clothes for his wife, books (very cheap) for his daughter and new jeans, glasses and a trip to the dentist for himself! The reality is that the economic comparison is good – I almost made it to the dentist but somehow couldn't bring myself to let that oh so most favored part of reality in to my happy place in Rajpur ... :-)

October 17th - Patanjali's B'day & Diwali

2009-11-13T11:12:00.000-08:00

Patanjali, seen by some as the 'father' of yoga, compiled the yoga sutras, over 5,000 years ago, which outline the philosophy, intent and practice of yoga. In traditional Iyengar yoga, we start the class / practice with an invocation to Patanjali and each year, Swati and Rajiv host a party in celebration of his birthday – and this year it also marked the last day of this first course.

Preparations began 2 days before – and involved two key tasks for us – 3 large sand paintings (e.g. 2 about 4 ft by 4 ft) on the bricks outside the hall and decorating the inside with many, many garlands of flowers. We started with the drawings – first the pattern was laid in chalk and then we filled it in with incredibly vibrant colored sand - it was like coloring ... and just as hard to stay in the lines as a 3 year old with crayons! Then on the day of the event came the flower stringing – at the start it was hard to conceive how this huge bag of orange marigolds would be strung ... but they were, interspersed with shiny green leaves, and by the end of the day they were hanging down and across the windows and along the walls of the studio with extra flowers stuffed into the rope hooks on the wall and strewn on the window sills – it looked beautiful. Somehow I'd been given the task of making flower garlands for the two deities in the room – one to Ganesha (god of wisdom and overcoming obstacles) and one to Hanuman (god of breath) – it felt like real responsibility - thankfully I had help! We had permission to raid Swati's garden for other flowers in addition to the marigolds - my favorite were the purple thistles. Then it was decorating the gods and 'flower stuffing' after the discovery that all the space on and around the gods needed to be filled – so more garden shopping ... By accident, we used these beautiful big tree blossoms – which were initially white when we picked them – but by the time of the event, they'd changed into a mauve purple – it was quite stunning. It was a fun couple of days – the nicest part was just hanging out with the other students and Rajiv and Swati in a very relaxed and informal atmosphere – a treat.

There were about 100 people at the celebration which started late afternoon - first, our invocation and an extended chant to Patanjali. This was followed by a real treat – a world renown musician who plays one of the traditional Indian instruments (unfortunately, the name escapes me ...) performed. The best way to describe it is a very long thin and guitar like instrument supported by two very large orange gourds (like pumpkins) so there is height and he can sit with his feet underneath it. He plays it by strumming the strings and moving a glass ball over them that creates sound vibrations – it was like nothing I've ever seen or heard – just beautiful. This was followed by dinner in the garden and then the good byes started as people were leaving to catch trains. Between this and the group dinner in Dehradun the night before, there was a lovely completion and closure to the course.

Two days later it was Diwali – one of the most important Indian holiday of the year ... the Festival of Lights where the triumph of good over evil or the inner light of an individual is celebrated. One of the traditions of the holidays is cleaning the buildings so that lights can be lit in every room – so for the week before the holiday, all kinds of tidying, sprucing up and painting was evident in houses and stores alike followed by the hanging of lights – it made me think of Christmas. People were also out buying new clothes to wear and the sale of sweets and fireworks was booming! Richard and I made our early morning trek to Missourie on the morning of Diwali and the mood on the street was one of fun and good wishes. Then at practice that afternoon, Rajiv invited those that could make it up to Swati's mother's hotel in Missourie for the celebration. With no concrete dinner plans, I said I'd go – even if on my own (good for me and surprisingly easy) – though it was nice when another couple were also able to join :-) It was a great evening – a traditional prayer service followed by a big bonfire and fireworks in the garden, and concluded with an excellent meal – and it felt very special to be able to participate in a family celebration. On the drive back we could see all the fireworks going off across Dehradun – not one or two big shows but hundreds / thousands as the fireworks go off family by family, house by house. We stopped the car a couple of times, turned off the lights and engine and just watched – it was a magical show.

PS I'm still having trouble loading pictures to the blog but I've uploaded a bunch from both celebrations to Facebook.

October 15th - Our Days Off

2009-11-13T10:22:00.000-08:00

We've had three days off this course and while I'm not sure their purpose is to go swanning off exploring nearby towns ... that does seem to be what happens, at least initially! In the first few days I'd made friends with a French woman living in New Caledonia and a Macedonian living in London – and over tea, plans were formed and dates set.

The first adventure with one, plus another 2 from the course, was to go to Haridwar – about an hour and a half away, on the Ganga (the Ganges) and a very religious place ... I hope you're not expecting the full correct info about the place, if so, might I suggest wikipedia.com ... :-) I enjoyed just seeing a smaller Indian city – and within 10 minutes it was confirmed, all the same chaos of the bigger city just on a slightly smaller scale! We had a good lunch and wander down the main street before taking a gondola up the hill to a temple – which I have to say felt a little like my experience at the Vatican Museum ... be a lemming and follow the stream of people going by the different shrines and for 10 rupees, being blessed at each. (Editors note: Just a little cynical I know - basically, I didn't know enough at the time to understand or appreciate what I was experiencing – and there were a lot of people, which is never my favorite experience. I'm not sure I know a lot more now, but I definitely have more appreciation.) The main event we were there to see was the sunset Puja (prayer service) on the Ganga – both sides of the banks lined with concrete steps down to the river and filled with people from all over India offering their prayers – either in baskets of flowers or pieces of paper that were consolidated, set alight and then afloat on the river. It didn't last long – and it was really quite magical in the evening light. What was less magical unfortunately was the Ganga – it was very low and dirty – that didn't seem to stop people swimming in it or fishing for things in the garbage ... or a couple of us dipping our feet in – it is meant to cleanse past impurities which seemed a little ironic at the time but here's hoping :-)

After Haridwar, it took me a few days to come back 'down' to the quiet of Rajpur, so on our second day off I decided to stay put and just enjoy the day in Rajpur. It was lovely: breakfast and stories with Richard, connected with my family via skype, lunch with my French friend (and a great discussion on yoga and sabbaticals – she's been through a similar journey to my own and had some great advice), some errands and then I made it to the studio for self practice. All day I've had this lovely spring in my step – it's been with me the last few weeks – either walking to yoga in the morning or down the hill to breakfast or errands - and just appreciating everything from the air, to the hills, to the sky, to just being here. I'm very grateful.

Our last day off, we headed up to Missourie, a town just above Dehradun – it is built into the hills such that parts reminded me of the Greek towns built into the cliffs. It is a lovely little spot – much smaller and quieter than Haridwar. You stroll from one end to the other and we had a good putter – did some shopping, had a great lunch and then at the coffee shop, ran into a larger group of students who had done the 3 hour walk up ... maybe next course ... You can get a view of the Himalayas from a hill just beyond the town but only early in the morning – so when the course was over Richard and I caught the local bus at 6.30am and made our way up. The air was crisp and clear with great views as we walked - so impressive – made me want to get closer and also showed their remoteness and fierceness - still I'd be tempted to try ...

October 13th - Anticipating Movies

2009-11-13T10:18:00.000-08:00

I've been thinking about movies a fair bit recently – not counting my long haul flights, it has been three and a half months since I've been in a movie theater ... now that may not be a long time for you, but for me, it is starting to feel like forever! I love the movies – really, really, really love the movies!

On the other hand, I haven't given a thought to not seeing the seasons premier of Grays Anatomy – even though I've heard it mentioned frequently – one of Rajiv's favorite references ... “not everything is as simple or can be solved as easily as in Gray's Anatomy ...”. TV historically has been an escape for me - and also a way to almost 'fill up' my life at times ... but traveling, I haven't had the option - and I haven't missed it in the least - I've had things I've wanted to do more and bottom line, I haven't needed the 'noise' - my life's been full and not something I've needed to escape from – very cool indeed.

Movies, however, are different – and while I've thought of them less as I've settled in here, I still can't wait to go see a film when I get home. Yes, I love the movies and I think it is a sign that I'm getting ready to be home. Anticipation I think they call it ... it happened today in a different form as well. I'm sitting working away on emails and all of a sudden I think of something to add to my 'to do' list ... but this time it's a Vancouver to do ... normally, my lists are for when I'm next in London or preparing for my next trip ... but now, it is about what to do when I'm home and the things that are coming to mind all involve taking my life forward – and while I'm not necessarily any closer to knowing what that looks like, I'm looking forward to the process of discovering it – another very cool feeling and almost reassuring to be experiencing :-)

The good news is that I'm back in December – right in time for the release of all the 'Oscar' contenders as well as the damp and gray weather – perfect for a matinee ... all recommendations very welcome and let me know if you're free for a movie or two :-)

October 10th - I Want A Garden

2009-11-08T02:22:00.000-08:00

Now that statement will surprise more than a few people, and likely send my mother into shock – but it's true. I've written before about our outdoor kitchen here and how it overlooks on to a lovely garden with then a further view of the surrounding hills. Really incredibly peaceful – and it has only reinforced something that I've been mulling for a bit now ... I want a home with a garden.

When I was buying my home, I had to decide between the house with a garden and mortgage helper or the condo – and was driving my real estate agent mad because I wasn't clear about what I wanted. Then after a yoga retreat in Haida Gwai, I came back very clear that, for that time in my life, the condo was the way to go – bottom-line it was easier, there was the strata to deal with all things maintenance – and my brother pulled out the all too faithful HR trump card ... when in doubt, what would past behavior indicate future behavior to be ... yeah, definitely the condo ...

The funny thing is that when I was looking, I actually found a half house with a garden that I liked and seriously considered making an offer – but it had it's drawbacks and so I didn't and that was right at the time - but the fact that it still sticks with me only reinforces this is the direction I want to go.

And then there is the question all will ask, are you going to look after the garden??? My real dislike for getting my hands dirty is well know – I kid you not, my mother has to find non-dirt related tasks for me when I'm helping in her garden ... But I've had two garden moments on this trip where friends have independently just shoved me in and said go ... and whether it was planting summer flowers with no gloves or digging up root systems and plant roots with gloves ... not only did I survive, but actually enjoyed it and had a real sense of accomplishment at then end ... so I definitely have a few things to learn e.g. how to keep the plants alive is the start – and also, lots of great teachers who will be more than happy to show me the way!

Now, how or when exactly this is going to happen, I'm not sure ... it will influence career decisions as a mortgage will be required ... and I don't want it to be something that ties me down from future traveling ... but at least I'm clear on what I want. Now it's up to me to see how much I want it - and to make it happen if I really do - which i do :-)

October 8th - The Animals of Rajpur

2009-11-08T02:17:00.000-08:00

The cows have free reign ... wander as they please (including one who literally went up the steps and into a shop ...). It's like Africa and the goats, I wonder how they tell who owns which one, where it is, how they know to come home ... it also seems to be quite close to calving season – or else there are some very fat cows … it's a little like with someone you think is pregnant but aren't totally sure you should ask ... but I have to believe at least a few of these cows are definitely expecting. And hopefully deliver before I go. By now I'm wanting to pet them as I go by on my way to class in the morning :-)

The monkeys – well let's just say, when I call my niece and nephew "monkey's" I couldn't be more right :-) The ones over here are everywhere causing more than a little mayhem and constantly being chased off properties by caretakers and theoretically the dogs. I've been surprised by just how 'everywhere' they are here and also how much bigger than I've seen in either Bali or Africa – clearly well fed monkeys. Also lots of baby monkeys about – tightly attached to mom when I arrived, but most now starting to explore on their own.

I also have a family of pigs and piglets in the land below our garden ... very cute, then there is the little frog I discovered in my room one night ... as I was sitting on the floor! And the dogs – some lovely ones well looked after and part of the family and others, well less so ...

And finally the ants ... I am not sure which is worse ... the constant stream of ants going along the side of the sink and onto my towel ... or the daily trickle of dead ants that I now have after I admitted defeat and asked for the insecticide ... there is clearly karma at work ... be either at peace with them alive or else removing their little dead bodies after they die ... clearly, I'm not becoming a Hindu anytime soon :-)

I was skyping with a friend today who was off to Seattle shopping ... I could fully picture the roads she'd be walking down, when all of a sudden it seemed quite weird ... but where would the aimlessly wandering cows and monkeys be??? It is going to be more than a little surreal to head back to the streets of the big cities ... I will miss being as close to mother nature as I have been here and in Africa, no matter what lovely little surprises she occasionally has in store for me :-)

October 6th - Day 11 A Very Quiet Relaxed Life

2009-11-08T02:11:00.000-08:00

This morning I realized I have finally slowed down, settled into being here and found this lovely relaxed life ... such that I've stopped ticking off the days and started realizing just how few are left in the first course ... my process is always the same :-)

The days starts a little before 7am and by 7.30am I'm at the studio settling in for the 8am Asana class. Two hours later, and I am hungry! A few days in I discovered Amdo's – a Tibetan restaurant where a number of us go for breakfast – for me, a cup of hot honey, ginger and lemon and 'special muesli' – a large bowl of yogurt, fruit, nuts, raisins and honey – perfect and necessary as when we have pranyama in the afternoon, we can't eat after 11.30 or so – so this needs to last through to dinner. The afternoons are typically slow. I may have a local errand or two such as buying veggies, finding the post office to mail postcards or syncing my laptop at the internet cafe and then it is home to read or write or do a little laundry ... or nap :-) I have been tired this first week and it's been a lovely luxury to lie down, read a little and then realize it's two hours later and I need to get going or I'll be late for afternoon class. A tough life I know.

I've read my first fiction book in ages – The White Tiger – and miracle of miracles, I have not read the ending yet ... for those that know me, this is actually an achievement :-) An excellent book which I've really enjoyed – a highly insightful look into the “two India's”, the light and the dark – and it feels especially relevant living in a house with a gardener, cook/housekeeper and laundry woman ... There is also a quote from the book that strongly resonated with me - “you were looking for the key for years, but the door was always open” - to what part of my life, I'm not sure – maybe just to living my life, in which case I'm definitely on the path to finding the open door.

I've been able to reflect more – be more present with myself and my behavior ... such as how I react when something doesn't go my way and I really don't think it's right - case in point, the taxi driver who still wanted to be paid even though he didn't actually have to pick me up from the Dehradun airport that first day ... I got angry and made it perfectly clear I was angry – I could have tried to smile, cajole and bargain or I could have gracefully accepted – after all, we were only talking about $12 - but my instinct was anger and I could feel it in my chest afterward as well as a responsive need for chocolate or bread ... there is a connection I realize ... as I munch away on my travel almonds :-) This control over my anger and my ability to let things go – are both things I'm hoping the pranyama will help with.

A number of times today, I've realized just how happy I am that the yoga center is in a quiet suburb of a city. We can get into Dehradun easily if we want – for the stores or good Indian food (as Richard and I did last night) – but increasingly I find it noisy and chaotic with all the people, cars and horns - after which I am very glad to be back in quiet Rajpur where, with the exception of the occasional car horn, Muslim call to prayer or the weddings late at night (we are in the “season” where the days are especially auspicious for weddings ...), all I hear are animals – birds, dogs, monkeys and the occasional moo from a cow thrown in for good measure!

The end of the day ... dinner after class about 6.30ish – the food is basic and good – and the conversation, exceptional! Richard has the great stories – either of his travels (jumping out of moving trains ...) or his research into ancient numerology within Judaism – the bible stories with their numerical links and meanings are wonderful and truly bring home the point of how linked Christianity, Muslim and Judaism are ... it's fascinating. By about 8.30ish we're finished our tea and a sweet and I'm off to read a little. I've been asleep before 10pm and sleeping really well – right from the start – for which I'm very grateful as it makes all the difference to me – and tells me I've really relaxed and settled into the place.

October 3rd - Day 8 The Yoga ... or is it Yog ...

2009-11-08T02:02:00.000-08:00

I've realized that I haven't yet described the yoga studio ... it is beautiful. It is a separate building, behind their house in the middle of a most incredible garden. The studio is perfect: huge open space, brick walls, high ceilings with great fans, large windows north and south with all the props – you can hang in a rope and before shutting your eyes, look at the incredible marigolds just outside.

8 days in and I am so enjoying the yoga - both Swati and Rajiv are excellent teachers, each with their own very distinctive style. Swati's classes are efficient and very focused on the precise instructions for the asanas – her sequences have great flow with a very natural progression from start to end.

Rajiv on the other hand is more philosophical and combines talks with the asanas – put plainly, he is a passionate, inspirational raconteur with a love of yoga in it's purest form – 'yog'. The fundamental question he asks is what are we doing? Is it 'yoga' or 'yog'. To him, what is practiced in the West is 'yoga' – by the body for the body – and it stops there (he is very skeptical – to say the least ... – about what the West has done / is doing to yoga). Whereas the science of 'yog' – as written by Pantajali over 5,000 years ago – has an ultimate goal of transforming the self – and while yes it too starts with by the body for the body, it goes beyond to by the body for the breath, to by the body and the breath for the mind. Progressing beyond just by the body for the body yoga is what he is here to teach over these next three weeks.

The first step in this journey is getting us to focus on the interconnections within the body – yes you can pull up your knee in Trikonasana (triangle pose) and it is by the knee for the knee and you can also adjust your foot and have a similar impact on the knee – by the foot, for the knee. Basically the combinations and permutations are endless ... by the foot for the foot, by the foot for the knee, by the shin for the knee. And yes, the Teacher can guide you to find these connections, but ultimately it is our individual journey and we need to find these connections ourselves – how do we do that? By experimenting – in his words it should be 'Eureka yoga' – how are we aware of the impact on ourselves in the pose of the different actions we take – and how do we 'play' within a pose at our own initiative. Which I believe is part of the reason why there is no hands on corrections in the classes – because in his mind, how can a teacher know when you are experimenting, so if they come along and readjust an arm that was back to be upright again, they could have just disrupted your experiment. Clearly this applies to students who already know the physical poses versus those that are just learning.

The other way that he describes this concept is that we need to understand the 'why' of the 'what'. In a pose, the first step is the 'how' – but then, we need to seek to understand the 'why' – why is the teacher asking us to put pressure on the outer foot of the back leg in standing poses – what is the effect of that on the leg, the hip, the chest, the arm ...

I have to say, I don't feel fully comfortable writing this – I am finding it hard to do justice to the experience of both of their classes – but especially Rajiv's. What he is teaching is new to me – he can be inspirational and I'm loving learning it – and many times, I'm sure I'm only understanding and experiencing a small portion of what he is trying to communicate. So – the usual disclaimer – if I'm getting this wrong, it is me, not Rajiv!!!

NB - I also have to say – I have my special yoga shirt with me that I have worn in yoga classes all through my travels – it reminds me of my yoga 'home' and I love explaining to people the expression on the back :-)

September 28th - Day 3 Finding ATMs in Dehradun

2009-11-07T01:41:00.000-08:00

Our first asana class with Swati – it felt like an hour and a half of concentrated leg stretches – it wasn't, but we did spend a lot of time standing with one leg on the wall. I am so appreciative of the fundamentals that both Rajiv and Swati are bringing to these first classes. Because I haven't been doing yoga regularly for a few months, I'm finding my body open to relearning the asanas (poses) without some of my former bad habits ... today in both the leg stretches and Uttanasana it was the importance of rotating the upper thigh back – something I've long struggled with thanks to many years of ballet when I was younger - and today, I could finally really feel it. Very cool indeed.

After class and breakfast, Richard and I took a vikram (6 to 8 people; 8 rupees – 20 cents) to Dehradun – our primary purpose, to withdraw enough money for the course and accommodation fees (India is a cash society) - which proved successful 4 ATM machines and 3 separate cash withdrawls later ... We then explored a bit – first Fab India, a clothes store with very nice traditional (well really they're modern traditional as they are still worn primarily) clothes – Richard bought things for his wife and I bought a traditional shirt to aid my attempts to fit in as best possible. Really beautiful fabrics, especially some of the shawls ... I will be back. Then we found the very western / Italian coffee shop with a comprehensive English bookstore in the back. And finally, Kumars – the small department store with a little bit of everything from food, to sweets, to drug store products, to home wares and even Kraft peanut butter ... It was good to get a sense of what was available 'in town'. Then a motorized rickshaw (2 to 3 people, 100 rupees – $2.30) back and we were home in time for pranyama.

I'm continuing to settle in at the house – the only thing I am really having to adjust to is the village of ants that I share the bathroom with ... this moving black line that I stare at as I brush my teeth ... unfortunately it seems Hindu philosophy is against killing animals ... I'm giving the natural remedies a week before I ask for the bug spray ... Our first few dinners have been good – I have a feeling however that rice, dal, a vegetable dish and two chapatis is going to be my staple meal over the next 7 weeks ... I may be needing a meal out or two along the way :-)

After dinner, back in my room for the evening, I am finding that I am missing 'noise' … it is going to take time to adjust to the quiet – the good news is that my PCs speakers are good and I'm rediscovering the music on my IPOD :-) I don't listen to music often and it is nice to be reminded of how much I enjoy it – normally the TV or internet provide the noise / fill the space first. I'm also not going to have wifi for the first time traveling – and that will be different as I am so used to being 'connected' … however, a little disconnection will be good for me – that is why I am here – to be quieter, to read, be able to reflect more and also catch up on my blog and email.

September 27th - Day 2 What, Where and Who

2009-11-07T01:04:00.000-08:00

After another good asana class, it's 11am, I have my banana, yogurt and granola and I'm sitting at our little table in the patio / outdoor kitchen overlooking our garden ... life is good. Though, the weather is incredibly humid and muggy – very thick fog – I now understand why my flight was canceled ... It is the end of the wet season, later than usual – it should start to get dryer and cooler soon – both of which I am looking forward to!

So where am I and what am I doing? Good questions both – I'll start with the second. Rajiv and Swati, husband and wife, have been practicing and teaching Iyengar yoga for over 30 years - studying directly with Mr. Iyengar and since his retirement, with his children, Geeta and Prashant, at the Iyengar Institute in Pune. 8 or 9 years ago, they moved to Rajpur, built their yoga studio and began offering 3 week intensive courses - attracting students from all over the world. The also teach intensives in the US and Europe – I was able to study with both of them during my US trip and so decided to make India the final destination on this 7 month travel adventure of mine. I was accepted into two courses, the 2nd of which will also cover Ayurveda – something I know nothing about but am curious to learn.

Where am I? I am in Rajpur – a small suburb 10 km outside of Dehradun – a larger (500k people) city 225km north east of Delhi I think. We are at the bottom of the foothills of the Himalayas and have lovely views of the hills and valleys from a number of points – there is a lot of green – and bar the occasional car horn or Indian wedding (it's wedding season at the minute), very quiet and peaceful. Rajpur itself goes from the bottom to the top of a large hill – the main road winds it way down with businesses (corner stores, tailors, laundry, a couple of restaurants) and homes along the way – it's a 20 minute walk top to bottom, where the main 'chowk' or business area is with the larger general stores, internet cafes, post office, better priced fruit and veg stands, food stands and buses / vikrams to Dehradun. There is a large Tibetan community here – it's easier to find a Tibetan restaurant than Indian it seems ... though there are excellent samosas at the bottom of the hill :-)

We are incredibly well looked after – there are between 30 to 40 yoga students per course and we all stay in houses a 5 to 15 minute walk from the yoga studio at the top of the Rajpur hill. Some, like me, are in suites within homes – usually of retired couples, often with main homes in Delhi. Others are 7 to 9 yoga students in a house, with a caretaker and their family on the property. Swati and Rajiv also provide us with an information document – everything from local customs (like women don't shake a man's hand – I of course read this after shaking my landlords hand ...), to which vegetable stands have the least 'erratic' pricing, to how much to tip at the end of the stay, to taxi prices etc. etc. I was particularly curious about suggestions they give to women – Rajpur is a very small village and quite traditional and it seems there are very few Westerns in Dehradun – so they do encourage us to dress locally, to go out as a group and not to be out on our own after dark (common sense I suppose but feels a little restrictive at times ...)

So that is the basic set up ... and so far, it's been great. However, I do think life here could be very quiet ... especially with just me and Richard in the house ... and the fact that everyone tends to scatter back to their accommodation after class … and I am a little uncertain about that – imagine that, me the (increasingly former it seems) shy, reserved 'high' introvert, concerned there aren't enough people around – more than a little ironic :-) And it's true. The last 5 weeks, in Africa and London have been high intensity people experiences – and I've really enjoyed them. I will enjoy having a little more time and space to relax (there has been a lovely nap already) – and I am going to have to work harder to make the connections with the other participants (who btw all seem very nice so far). It will be a good challenge for me.

September 26th - Day 1 Getting Settled

2009-11-03T01:14:00.000-08:00

The place where I am staying is lovely – the house is on a hill and the two apartments for yoga students are below the main house in the back - I have a large bedroom, walk in closet to store and lock everything and bathroom with western toilet (no toilet paper, but there was a toilet, and yes, I was relieved to see it ...) There is also an outdoor kitchen and common area which overlooks a beautifully manicured, very quiet garden which overlooks the valley. I was very pleasantly surprised – this was going to be better than ok, it was going to be great.

I woke after a good sleep and found the shower – or more accurately the taps with the water that goes into a bucket and then over me via a measuring cup ... I was awake, clean, dressed and ready for class! At which point, my neighbor Richard knocks on my door – time to go. The asana classes are from 8am to 10am most mornings and this morning Rajiv kicked things off. My first class in months – it felt good - very, very good.

After class, hungry, Richard and I headed off to explore and find food. Richard has been here before and knows his way around and what we needed to do – very helpful. We found an empty Indian restaurant for lunch ... unfortunately every 2nd thing we tried to order, they were out of ... including dal – how is that possible, really? But we got food and then went to get supplies. There is a cook on the property who makes dinner for us but we need to provide the ingredients. We decided to put our money in a kitty, discovered we both liked granola for breakfast and bought rice, lentils, vegetables and hopefully the right spices for a good meal or two ... we shall see tomorrow night!

We were back at the studio for our first pranyama class at 4pm with Swati – we'll have pranyama or philosophy half the afternoons. Today was restorative chest openers – a great way to start. I'm really looking forward to reconnecting with my yoga practice – and especially pranyama, with the focus on the breath and the necessity to open the chest to free the breath. I know that opening my chest more is key for me – from a posture perspective as well as from an emotional one – and so I'm curious to develop and see the effects of a more regular pranyama practice – of everything yoga, that is what I want most to be able to take home with me.

The evening was quiet – I had my complimentary meal which I'd missed the night before while Richard fasted (he's Jewish and it is Yom Kippur). Richard is English though lives with his family in Israel. He's had a fascinating life to date with an incredible amount of travel (drove overland India in the 70s I believe) and spent most of his time living abroad – India, Tibet, China and Israel. Our first dinner and we're talking religion ... I am going to enjoy spending time with him and have no doubt we'll have some fascinating conversations! Then I unpacked, did a little writing and was off to bed – a good first day.

September 24th - Off To India

2009-11-03T01:07:00.000-08:00

I'm getting to recognize the pattern while I'm in the middle of the experience ... which has to be a good thing. Yes, I'm feeling a little nervous about going to India for 7 weeks. I'm confident about the yoga, less sure about all the time ... there is only so much yoga one can do during the day and then what would I do? Would I get bored? So I packed books I'd been meaning to read – I wanted to use the time productively and was also hoping I'd have the chance to reflect and get clarity on some things ... the big one being what on earth I was going to do after my lovely 18 month sabbatical – the end of which was rapidly approaching ...

I arrived at Heathrow in plenty of time – Terminal 5, not the warmest of buildings but very efficient – waiting at the departure gate, I had the strangest feeling in my stomach – just of unease – for what ever reason I didn't believe this trip was going to go as smoothly as my others had ... and as I'm wandering about the gates with this feeling, I notice the flight in the gate next to mine is going to Vancouver – seriously ... I was more than a little tempted to try and get on ...

The flight to Delhi was fine, visa check, bus to domestic terminal check – all was good. (The bus went through the air field and I notice this huge plane with Uzbekistan on the side … I really was on the other side of the world – and it was just so cool!) Checked in for my flight to Dehradun, found coffee and food and even free wireless – I was set ... and then, my flight is delayed ... ok, no biggy, more email ... but then I see, it's been canceled ... shit – what do I do now???? This is a once a day flight destination ... and I'll admit, panic was starting to set in ... so I go as directed to the check-in and was lucky to meet a German woman on the same flight in the same situation – we agreed to share a taxi and she had been coming to India for years and had a travel agent she trusted – yes it would be long, 7 hours or so, but we'd get there tonight and all would be good ... right ...

We set off – and the first thing the German woman says to the driver is – is this the right car? There had been a misunderstanding ... wrong car (too big / expensive) for the long drive ... so we see a little more of Dehli (absolute chaos) while we changed cars and then headed off. The traffic was absolutely incredible ... cars everywhere – no order – horns going incessantly – just unbelievable and incredibly SLOW. A couple of hours later and we were out of Dehli and in the country side, going along a smaller road. The good news, it was faster. The bad news, our driver tells us this is a road the mafia control after dark and where people are often stopped and robbed ... we're perfectly fine he says, it's daylight ... but of course, as we're approaching dusk, and as we seem to hit every pothole or crash over speed bumps and the car shakes and jolts, all I can think about is what happens if the car gets a flat or worse, breaks an axle or some such ... I put my head back, shut my eyes and breathed – and visualized my New Years Day Open House – finally, we're off the road, both of us relieved and 4 hours of the expected 7 hour journey are done.

We stopped for dinner – large fast food styled place – veggie burger and the bathroom, all good – and back in the car. Then we realize just how much further we had to go ... in 4 hours we'd only done 75km of the 225km journey – you do the math ... We were doing ok – until it got dark – and then it was just scary. The road is chaos all the time, but at least you can see – in the dark, there were many, many times I seriously thought the lights coming straight at us were going to hit. I had stretched out with one foot on the front passenger door handle and the other underneath the front seat – I moved my feet as I realized if we were hit, I didn't want my ankles broken. We were both sitting up straight, holding on to the handle and just tense and quiet for the next 5 hours – time moved very slowly and I have never been so conscious of it – every 15 minutes seemed to tick by.

On the journey, I also realized that this somehow was my karma coming back at me full circle. You see one of the decisions that I'd been going back and forth on at the end of my time in Italy was how to get to Dehradun ... the strong advice on the website was to take the train – frequent, cheap, comfortable and easy and they had a travel agent who would help ... the other options were bus or flights and a taxi was the choice of last resort. I was nervous of traveling by myself in India – because of the crowds, chaos and confusion (not a concern of safety) – and so eventually I decided the $ for the flights was worth it – airports are no problem for me and I would get enough real Indian experiences when I was there for 7 weeks - I thought I was set ... clearly I should have taken the train – seems I was destined for a true Indian experience one way or the other ... Within a week of arriving, I was at the train station buying a ticket for the journey back to Dehli – next time, I'll take the advice and just start swimming in the local experience - I'm learning, just slowly :-)

And then we arrived - somehow seeing signs for Ford and Toyota gave me a sense of comfort :-) We found the yoga center and then the house where I was staying and all was good. It's amazing – there were seriously times when I didn't think we'd make it and then once we were here, that all disappears.

September 20th - More to Life Weekend

2009-11-03T00:51:00.000-08:00

I did the More to Life weekend while I was in London – I heard about the program through a friend and it was scheduled for when I'd be in town, so I thought it was meant to be and signed up. It was an interesting experience ... I went into it knowing very little of what to expect. I knew I was on this journey of self discovery and I hoped a formal program now would help me consolidate what I had learned so far and also help me figure out where I was going next – or at least give me some tools I could use. It was another example of not doing a lot of research and just going for it ... unfortunately in this case, it didn't pan out quite as I had hoped.

Unfortunately, I was put off quickly – they wanted us to share and be very open with the large group (e.g. 60+ and microphone required) ... and as much as I'm opening from my introverted shell, it was too much. I also had a reaction to their 'disciplines' – basically a series of do's and don'ts to be followed during the 2.5 days – nothing earth shattering – basics in the room (no watches, food or drink, go to the side of the room when you need to refocus) and out of the room (no alcohol or chocolate, limited coffee and cigarettes). I understood the rationale for this – to be more present, shake yourself out of your normal routine etc. etc. - to use their phrase, to be more 'awake'. I had two reactions – one, it was a good reminder in the moment of just how much I don't like being told what to do ... but two, it was symptomatic of the overall weekend that just felt too scripted and too rah rah for me – so while I did my best to stay open, especially to the tools and to see 'what was next' in each session, I know I shut down at times – at least I was present about it.

On the positive side, the facilitators were very good and one in particular, excellent – she was able to use people's sharing to make connections and uncover deeper learning, for them personally as well as for the group. For example, the difference between doing a good job and being right versus doing one's best – definitely a trip I fall into. The tools they used were also good – being aware of what they call 'mind talk' (what you tell yourself that isn't really true), then 'clearing' it and also working through resentments and forgiveness, of others and yourself. I was able to 'clear' a professional situation and I did appreciate that.

The bottom line was that for some it was incredibly powerful – and I do believe, from the emails that circulated after, that it did change their lives – the programs intent. But for me, I wasn't able to crack into my deeper personal issues – the environment they created or their brand of 'kool aid' just didn't work for me. The good news is that they have a money back guarantee – and so I asked for my money back – an act which in and off itself speaks volumes to my overall development over the last year and a half :-) I had a good conversation and was able to articulate my experience – it felt good and empowering – and also was a testament to the integrity of the organization which I respected.

September 18th - London, A Blur ...

2009-11-03T00:46:00.000-08:00

I had 11 days in London between Africa and India – and I was so glad to be here! I love London – and I have such a level of comfort – everything from the trains, to walking down the high street, to Marks & Spencers, to Boots, to a cup of tea, to the pubs ... I just relax and breath more easily. It really is my second home. I have been so lucky to use it as a base for this extended 5 month trip abroad – from two days before we left for Greece to three days in between Italy and Africa to now – it has been my grounding, my coming home before heading off again. I have said, and I truly believe, that I couldn't have done this trip without having it – so thank you so very much to my very good friends who have put me up – I'm more grateful than I can say.

This time in London was different – I had more time – I was looking forward to being able to just hang out and spend time with friends, some of whom I hadn't seen in years - as opposed to just coming in unpacking, doing laundry, another trip to Boots and packing up again. The very short version - it was basically 10 days spent 'chatting' – either over lunch, dinner, coffee, tea, wine, beer, shopping or wheelbarrows of dirt.

The slightly longer version ... 1st day, great pub day – pub (Sunday roast) to pub (scrabble) to pub (cakes and paper) to pub (quiz night) ... to High Wycombe for 2 days landscaping (2 of us moved at min 40 wheelbarrows full of dirt from one end of the garden to another) and great conversations ... fun in London, shopping (I hadn't remembered to bring cold weather clothes ...) and hanging out with a friend on school break ... party dresses on, girls night out – maybe a little trouble was had ... but a very fun night ... More to Life weekend – incredibly intense and more on that later ... starting to think about packing for India ... wonderful catch up with an old friend – talked for 5 hours straight and could have kept going ... great lunch with friend last seen in Vancouver and Victoria now in Nottingham – such a global crowd ... laundry and packing ... last dinner: cheese and bacon burger and fries – before 7 weeks of vegetarian curry ... a wonderful whirlwind :-)

I'm leaving London already looking forward to being back after India for another two weeks at the end of November - seeing more old friends - before flying home December 1st.

September 12th - Kenyan Reflections

2009-10-28T01:38:00.000-07:00

I'm back on a plane – a plane is a plane is a plane. And the image I can't get out of my mind is of the school. I'm so glad I was here for 3 weeks and was able to see the school in action and really teach – it absolutely made the experience for me. Leaving, I was really torn – in many ways, caterpillars being a big one, I was ready to go – on the other hand, I felt like I was leaving too soon – just starting to scratch the surface with my teaching and getting to know the kids.

Part of why I wanted to have this experience was to see how I'd do – and would I want to go back for longer another time. So, how did I find it? Could I stay for longer?

It was incredibly different (e.g. the slums, the kids in old western clothes, being crammed in a matatu) and yet there was enough the same (the supermarkets, the fruit and veg, the wifi), that I found it very manageable. I'd thought I'd be surprised by the degree of difference and also by the degree of similarity and I was right.
I was starting to get tired of the structure of living in the house (e.g. cooking for a group – a few 'make it yourself' simple nights would be great, the same lights out time etc.) and I never slept really, really well while there – I think due to the crowded shared accommodations – I would definitely need to be able to sleep soundly to stay longer. There was also a strange, but understandable, dynamic in the house – two distinct communities, the volunteers and the staff, with a not fully equitable distribution of household chores, that was starting to grate.
I would have liked to become more integrated in the school - have a chance to work with the kids on a longer term basis and really get to know them and see them learn and develop. Both of those take time. But I can't imagine how impossibly hard it would be to leave them then.
The hardest aspect of staying longer would be socially – the network is small and I think potentially becomes replaced with the internet and Facebook – I would really miss my family, friends, the regular aspects of life – dinners, coffees, yoga classes etc.

Net, net, could I do it? I could. Do I want to? I'm not sure - possibly. One of the gifts of the experience was that I am continuing to build my confidence and comfort traveling anywhere – which only increases the number of places I want to see. My preference is definitely to do it with someone, ideally male :-) but I can do it. I can stay in $6 a night accommodation – and also appreciate the $60 a night nice hotel with pool every once and a while :-) (Ed. Note – I'm in India and was just looking at a map … do you know how close I am right now to Afghanistan, Pakistan and Nepal??? and my curiosity is there ... any takers?)

Another lesson I'm learning – just how much trust and openness go hand in hand – in Africa, I found openness easier than trust – in part because trust also seemed linked to safety – and yet, I can work hard to ensure I'm never stolen from - even when the probability is so minimal - but is that really how I want to live my life? And I know when you give trust, you can be surprised by what you get back in return – a very high ROI nines times out of 10 and those odds are ok with me. Now how do I put it into practice more in the moment?

I'm watching The Soloist on the plane to Amsterdam – a beautiful story of helping 1 among 90,000 and the impact that can have. You may not be able to solve the problem, but you can help and – the lesson of the film – touching and helping one person, becomes much more about what you learn about yourself. As the credits run, and Beethoven plays, I have tears running down my face as I type this. It is worth it to help one person – to put one smile on someone's face – the gift back to myself is priceless. For all my lack of trust and openness at times, I have such love to give – and in the past I haven't expressed it nearly as much as I've wanted to. I've lived without truly giving and sharing love on a daily basis and that is no way to live at all. I believe that is my ultimate lesson learned from the children and my time in Kenya.

And now I must go blow my nose as I'm starting to get a few strange looks on the plane :-)

To end on a lighter note, I've also been remembering some of my favorite 'Madam' moments ...

we were making paper crowns with the kids which required tape construction to finish them off – I was the only one with tape, so all I kept hearing was “ask Madam Susan” and then “Madam”, “Madam” - at points I was swarmed with all these faces wanting to be next ... my attempt at order - “you #1, you #2, you #3” inevitably fell quickly back into disarray.
when I would bring out my camera, again chaos ... “Madam, me” ... “Madam, me”
in the classroom, there were a number of different “Madam”s with different intents and intonations ... the very formal and in unison start to the day “good morning Madam, how are you?”, the plaintiff “Madam, I don't understand” or the more incredulous “Madam” - heavy emphasis on the last syllable – “all 8 questions???” and my favorite, the faster, attention grabbing, prouder “Madam” when they were finished and wanted their work marked.

I've been called “Ma'am” in the southern US and now again “Madam” in India – both make me feel far to formal and removed, detached - I'll say this, I'll take a Kenyan child's “Madam” any day of the week ... and add on a “How Are You?” and I can't help but smile :-)

September 11th - Saying Goodbye

2009-10-28T01:37:00.002-07:00

Bottom line – it was a lot harder than I thought it would be.

In the morning I was on my own as Anna had been to Tumaini the night before. It was also Anna's birthday and so first thing I asked the kids what they sang on someones birthday ... here I was thinking there might be some local tradition we could surprise Anna with, but no, they proceeded to sing good old Happy Birthday – though they had an extra verse ... “How Old Are You Now” etc. etc. - nothing like the direct Kenyan culture! Then English – another round of the word game they enjoyed. Afterward, I observed CRE (Community Religious Education I believe) - it was a good class - the topic was friends and what are the qualities that make a good friend – it was an excellent list: kind, honest, helpful, respectful, humble, show love, joyful and patient – and made me grateful for the many good friends in my life. Late morning was Kiswahili and then phys ed – which gave Kieran, Claire and I time to go over to Precious to collect our certificates – all the kids were sitting in the hall waiting for us and Jane gave a lovely speech – which included getting all of our information and telling us in detail how we could send money and what even just a little bit of money could do to help them – one dollar bought 10 notebooks if I remember correctly. Jane has a good heart and I give her full credit for using all her powers of persuasion to get more resources for these kids.

We were back at Olives in time for lunch and some volleyball with the girls before finishing the day with math – which of course, I enjoyed – until I realized I'd asked them to do revision work for a chapter they hadn't yet covered ... they were good sports about it and so we did it together and by the end, they were kind of getting it - I think ... Then it was time to celebrate Anna's birthday – the version of Happy Birthday was even louder and more rousing than this morning once they realized she had brought them cakes. Then I brought out my camera and we got a couple of 'class photos' before total pandemonium of cakes and pictures took over.

At the end of class, I tried to tell them that I believed in them and what they could become – and that I wanted them to study and achieve their dreams. My heart was in my throat by the end. I gave them my address and who knows – I hope somehow to keep in touch. Steven, the founder, thanked us – again, emotion in my throat. As we were walking away, all I could think was that I was glad I was wearing sunglasses. One final walk back through the village and that was it, this most amazing, incredible experience was over. I was really going to miss the school and the kids.

Home to pack – of the 6 volunteers, 4 were leaving which felt odd. Kieran was the first to go and then as the rest of us weren't leaving until Saturday we headed out for dinner to celebrate Anna's birthday. Another local restaurant set in a garden with an outside bar area. The menu was once again straight forward – chicken, goat or pork for the carnivores and then a selection of potatoes (chipped, mashed, roasted) and a tomato and onion salad for the veggies – for me, veggies, 2 sprite and the taxi was 430 shillings or $6. One last sleep in the top bunk, one last quick cold shower and I was off in my 4am taxi for my 5.30am flight. Everything went smoothly – and I loved how different my experience was at the Nairobi airport changing terminals versus when I arrived - a totally different level of comfort. And then the cold air of the plane and relief from the caterpillars – mundane I know, but I can't tell you what a relief it was in the moment ... what can I say, I'm a real wimp with this stuff ...

September 10th - Olives, An Amazing School

2009-10-28T01:37:00.001-07:00

For what ever reason (likely a better nights sleep thanks to the antihistamines and the beer the night before ...), I felt much more energy heading into school this morning. We realized we had been avoiding Science and so the first part of the morning was dedicated to revising nutrition using their book. This was something they had already covered and yet when we asked them questions, we were surprised by how much they needed to refer back to their previous notes – it didn't seem like they had learned it. It reinforced what Tess had said at the beginning – challenging us to find ways to teach that were interactive – the current approach to teaching versus the traditional – which unfortunately, was what they were used to and what we were doing as we talked, wrote it on the chalk board and they then copied it down – again.

We made it through a little more of the afternoon – and I was starting to see how I could last a full day. I have gained such an appreciation for teachers through this experience - particularly their energy and patience ... I found that I don't put up with a lot of nonsense ... It is one of the most important professions and in our current way of recognizing worth as a society, incredibly undervalued.

As I'm coming to the end of my three weeks, I've been reflecting more about the school and and also my impact as a teacher. As a teacher, there were two groups of kids that I spent the most one on one time with – either the ones that were really good who I needed to ensure were kept challenged, often by doing exercises beyond where the rest of the group was, and then those that struggled and whose tendency was to give up but with more explanation could understand. What I found interesting was that the two groups were split by gender – the boys the former and the girls the latter. So the question is, if you can only spend time with one group, which one do you focus on / invest in … help ensure that the ones that understood moved forward (e.g. to high school) or encourage the ones that might not move forward to try and be able to. There are pros and cons both sides – in the end, the group that pulled me were the girls. If I had to choose, I wanted to help them 'get it' – because it wasn't a question of ability but rather time, attention, focus and as they got it, confidence in themselves – and that, my friends, is priceless.

Regarding the school, at times I've been a tough critic – whether it is the generous concept of Kenyan time or the unrealistic schedule or the traditional teaching style that seemed to predominate – were the kids learning as well and as much as they could? Yet I also knew that some kids from the school had gone on to high school and were consistently doing very well – a strong testament to the quality of education they were getting. It was a very good reminder of my tendency to expect everything at a very high standard now and to want to take the tough action to get there as fast as possible – versus not just allowing for but truly understanding the local culture and norms, leveraging them and having the patience to allow things to develop more organically and ultimately, in a more sustainable constructive way. The great thing is that Steven and Michael are looking to improve and genuinely open to feedback – and they need to adapt and figure things out on their own – that is the aspect of 'help/partner' versus 'doing/aid' that is tougher as the helper but critical for the local ownership and ultimate success of the endeavor. The good news is that they have a strong partner in Tess who really does understand this. (One example is her idea of training the school's teachers in the more interactive teaching style – the same training she gives the volunteers. Knowing her, I'm sure it will go forward and knowing the teachers, I'm sure they'll be open to the new ideas.)

Bottom line, the commitment that Steven, Michael, Jane and the other teachers have for the children is amazing - they are giving these kids an opportunity that they wouldn't have otherwise. And combine that with the volunteers coming through, with fresh energy and new ideas, the possibilities for the school and the kids really are unlimited. And I love how much the kids want to learn – they want to be at school – even a teachers innocent mistake of saying, we'll cover this tomorrow and tomorrow is Saturday, gets them excited – they would be there if they could. They truly appreciate the education – and fully recognize the link between what they learn and what it means for their future.

There is a website where GVI is raising money for the school (the money goes through the GVI Charitable Foundation). I am not one to normally publicize this type of thing, but this is an exception of the heart for me. If you choose to, I believe you can direct your $ and from what I saw, the top three funding priorities are sponsoring children to high school, providing school supplies (there were fewer dusters than there were blackboards for example) and paying the teachers and providing them with training.

September 9th - Is This My Limit?

2009-10-28T01:33:00.000-07:00

It's Wednesday, we still have the rash and I'm walking to school feeling tired – surprisingly tired – and really wishing I wasn't going in. I would happily be anywhere else at the moment. I'd like to think that if I didn't have the rash I'd enjoy going to school but the reality is I find the teaching tiring – even with two of us in the room, you just need to be constantly 'on'. I always think of myself as having good endurance and the ability to persevere through things and I find myself wondering if this is it, I've reached my limit.

We managed to get through the morning – Math and then English – we spiced up English today and didn't touch the text book, instead we put the kids in teams and had them come up with words from the letters of a large word ... 'caterpillar' ... everyone had fun and it was great to see them working together in teams. There was a really nice energy in the room at the end of the morning and we were even singing and dancing at the end as they showed us one of their songs.

Our schedule was such that again, we had the afternoon off – or rather the schedule called for classes that we didn't teach. Now we could have stayed and done stuff with the kids in case the teachers didn't show (which had been what had happened the previous day), but I must admit, our approach was that if we had taught all morning, including a couple of non English, Math or Science slots, then we figured the afternoon was the local teachers and we were ok to go. Not the most mature of attitudes I will admit and rationalized in part by telling ourselves that we were there to help and not do – I think we, or at least I, was feeling a little taken advantage of by the local teachers e.g. we were there and so we could teach for the day. It was also definitely compounded by how tired I felt. I also realized just how strong my need for clarity is – more so than structure – e.g. if you're going to have a very detailed precise schedule then stick to it or else have a schedule that is clear in its flexibility / has more room to breath. I'm also not always proud of my reaction when I get frustrated – too often it can be passive aggressive versus being able to express my frustrations in a clear and constructive way ... they say awareness is the first step :-)

We stayed for lunch – we hadn't stayed yesterday and that had been wrong, it was important that we ate with them as it was their hospitality for us and their warmness and welcoming nature was such that the last thing we wanted to do was offend. My energy had recovered sufficiently that I was feeling guilty when we left, but I left anyway – for selfish reasons. It was our last afternoon where we could go into Mombasa and I had seen a wooden bowl at one of the shops Barbara and I had visited that I wanted to get. I'd also done such a good job describing it that Kieran decided he wanted one too. So after an initial stop at the spice/tea/coffee shop in the fruit and veg market, we found our way back to Old Town and the store with the bowl – where the owners, a father and son, remembered me. I bought my bowl and then as we were getting ready to leave, they pulled me aside ... Kieran and one of the other volunteers had also bought some things and so they said I could take my pick of the necklaces as a thank you for bringing them the business. I was really touched – it really is about relationships – I have a picture of the three of us that is one of my favorites.

September 8th - The Attack of the Caterpillars

2009-10-28T01:28:00.000-07:00

The next day we had conclusive proof that the caterpillars had been causing the mysterious rashes that had earlier afflicted some of the other volunteers – both Anna and I woke with lovely, incredibly itchy, red dots all up and down our arms and on our necks and two other volunteers who'd already suffered were attacked again ... lovely. For me, this was compounded by my trip to the hospital they day before – all good but my cold from last week had migrated to a sinus infection and so I'd gone in for some antibiotics. I'd been impressed with the hospital – it was on the other side of Bombolulu village in a Muslim area and the facilities and staff were good and efficient - I was out in 30 minutes all for 200 shillings ($3) to see the doctor and 1,500 ($22) for 7 days of antibiotics the size of horse pills plus antihistamines. I became extra grateful for the antihistamines given the caterpillars ...

At school that morning, we discovered we had not been the only ones affected by the caterpillars – our classroom had been especially hard hit as the tree with the caterpillars was just outside and the wind blew directly in the window. Luckily we were able to move the class to another room at least temporarily – however, neither we nor the kids could stop scratching ... we conjugated a few new verbs – to itch and to scratch ... and then moved on to cover some English and math. My realization for the day was just renewed appreciation for the school supplies we take for granted at home – we had 6 rulers and 3 protractors for our class 13. It worked but boy those were valuable commodities – they all wanted one at the beginning of class and we needed to ensure we got them back again at the end.

We had learned that the intent of the schedule was that we cover the English, Math and Science classes and then the rest such as Social Studies and Kiswahili were covered by the local teachers. So when we realized that our classes were over by lunch, 4 of us most impacted by the caterpillars, decided that we would head over to the Reef Hotel where Barbara was still stuck (she'd hurt her back and was trying to get home but having challenges getting on a flight out of Mombasa). We spent a lovely afternoon hanging out with her, catching her up on the experience of teaching in the school term and enjoying the pool – I've never been so happy to be submerged under water up to my chin – for at least a little while there was relief from the itching. I'm a wimp I know :-)

Editors note – I'm in India editing this and my aversion of caterpillars is remarkably alive ... had to exit a big hairy one from the yoga hall the other day and then today, saw a little tiny one hanging very near me at breakfast, that looked far to similar to the African variety and I had to have someone remove it. While small bugs have never been a favorite, I'm not normally this bad, but the memory of the intense itching is still just too fresh to be repeated anytime soon!

September 7th - The First Day of School

2009-10-28T01:23:00.000-07:00

It was the first day of the new school term and the first day in the new school – everyone was very excited! The day started with an opening assembly with everyone standing in a circle area outside. One of the teachers kicked things off and then handed it over to Steven's brother Michael, the Head Teacher and in his lovely quiet way, he talked about about the school's motto – do the right thing, at the right place, at the right time and in the right way – the respect he has of the kids was so clear. We then introduced ourselves and then everyone headed off to class.

Everyone was nervous about 'teaching school' as we all had very little idea what to expect - so the night before we decided to initially 'observe' in pairs and then take it from there. Anna and I had the Standard 5s, the oldest class – theoretically about 10 but our range was 10 to 13. There were 6 kids on Monday and by the end of the week there would be 13 with a few stragglers showing up and 3 new students joining thanks to the new school (including one of the girls I'd been teaching last week who was really bright – I was thrilled to see her in class).

The theory of observation was an interesting one as no teacher showed up ... so we found out where they were in the math text book and got them going on that. We were working with them one on one and I was helping an older girl who's tendency was to just ignore the questions – her basic skills weren't very good which impacted her ability to get some of the other concepts – but we persevered and she was understanding and able to repeat the examples – we celebrated at the end with a high five and I loved to see the pride and satisfaction on her face – it absolutely made my day. Later, one of the teachers came by to start us off on English – using the text, he had the class read the story, led a brief discussion and then they were to work on the questions in the book and we would help them and mark their work. They do like their 'ticks' – and if it is a red pen all the better – and from what Michael said, they are important – something the parents will look for when they go home at night. (Over the week they got used to my 'stationary kleptomania' and realized they needed to specifically ask for their pens back when I was done marking or it would disappear ... and they weren't going to let that happen, the pen was too valuable!)

We broke for lunch – rice and beans – simple and good. We ate in the small staff/book/supplies room with the teachers and had a chance to compare notes with the others about their morning and also look at the schedule. The schedule was detailed – 6 classes of 40 minutes starting at 8am, with a 30 minute recess in the morning, an hour and a half lunch and then 4 classes in the afternoon until 4.20pm. And given that the older kids had an extra period at 6.30am, it was a very long day for everyone. So far the morning hadn't gone exactly to schedule ... but this was Day 1 and we were all curious to see how things would evolve as the week progressed.

In the afternoon we observed one of the teachers cover social studies and it was very interesting to listen to – he covered some of the traditional tribal ways from earlier times and to my surprise, it did touch on circumcision, both male and female – happily, the message was that female circumcision was being discouraged by the Kenyan government - for health reasons ... The last period was flexible and so we had an open Q&A session – to help them get to know us better, we said they could ask us any questions they wanted – I was on the hot seat first ... How old was I? Was I married? Did I have any children? It was the census all over again ... only their reactions were more exaggerated than the census takers ... they nearly fell out of their seats in gales of laughter when they realized I was 42, not married and no children. However, I did get a few points when I said I'd been to university, had my own home and a car ... though I'm still not entirely sure they thought that was the better side of the equation to be on ... We also asked them what they wanted to become – I loved the answers – everything from airplane pilots, to doctors, nurses and teachers and even one girl who wanted to be a Member of parliament – I was absolutely thrilled by that!

It was the end of the day – we'd survived – and it was a very quiet evening as we were all tired from our first day.

September 5th - Weekend in Malindi

2009-10-28T01:15:00.000-07:00

Friday night we decided to go to the Reef Hotel - the hotel where we all first met, the jumping on and off point for arriving / departing volunteers. It is right on the ocean and has a lovely pool so we had a wonderful late afternoon swim, incredibly expensive buffet dinner and then watched an impressive acrobatics show. The view of the ocean was beautiful – especially of the night sky and the sun setting over the horizon off the coast. I was said to see the 3 volunteers go – it wouldn't be the same without them – and I was glad I was staying the extra week as I was looking forward to seeing the school in action

The next morning, the new group of 6 (we had gained a new volunteer) headed off to Malindi – the next biggest town after Mombasa about 2 hours up the coast. We hadn't had any luck finding a hotel in advance, so we just showed up. The matatu dropped us a ways out of the centre of town so we got into a couple of mini taxis – closer to motorized rickshaws - and asked them to take us to a “cheap” hotel. I confess, I did worry about the potential relative definition of cheap ... first time I've stayed in a room costing 400 shillings ($6) a night – but you know what, it was fine. I realized I can travel that cheaply – but with other people, I'm less sure about on my own :-)

Our first priority was finding lunch and after wandering a little we found a very 'local' restaurant – Kieran was now the only man and the owner would initially only talk to him – what did he want to eat was primary, what did we want was definitely secondary. A fried egg and some very greasy chips turned into quite the mzungu (white person) experience in terms of cost ... not my best meal. We were joking about the cultural norms when Kieran had the audacity to joke that he was with his 4 wives and his mother ... you know who the mother was ... needless to say, while factually possible, I wasn't impressed – we got it sorted out later, I'd prefer his second option of being the good looking for her age prostitute versus the mother ... :-)

Then a little more exploring – this is a very popular Italian vacation destination and so there were quite a few tourist shops to explore and also a tourist market with row upon row of stalls and with everyone wanting us to at least come into their shop and look around. It was dusk so we promised to return tomorrow – and I promised to publicize “mama's shop #4” in the first row run by a grandmother who wouldn't be there the next day as it was Sunday and she'd be in church. We also heard a new expression from the children – no longer was it 'how are you?' here it was 'ciao' - still my favorite greeting, just the way it rolls off the tongue. After our lunch experience, we found a nice restaurant for dinner – very comfortable, nice décor and very good food – relatively expensive for Kenya and a nice treat.

The next morning was shopping! After exploring the rest of town, we were back to the tourist market and got our negotiating hats on ... it is a sport, and we definitely had the home field advantage – I did my best to remember that the 30 shillings we're negotiating over are relatively speaking worth much more to them than me. I remembered the lesson I got from my Asian friends in Bali – bargaining is definitely expected and part of the culture / process, but the trick is to find the win win solution for both of you.

After spending our money, we found the beach – the coastline is incredible – there is a reef that runs all along the coast and it creates these incredibly flat beaches – especially when the tide is out which it was. There was also incredible surf – great fun - we were knocked as if we were in a washing machine. There wasn't a lot of sun bathing however as the wind was whipping along and taking the sand with it – you'd stand up and be exfoliated and dry in about 10 minutes max. From there we got the matatu home – another journey of jarring jolts as we sped over speed bumps – I had no idea the matatus could reach such speeds. I was also grateful for what I am sure is mzungu pricing – we may have paid more than the locals but at least we had our own seats ... the number of people that were crammed in some of the seats was crazy ... you'd watch 5 people, more if there were children, getting out of what was meant to be a row of seats for 3 ... It was nice to see the countryside and is definitely a different perspective than the city with small villages and fields of palm trees (very cute as they grow from a mini-me version to their full height from what I could tell).

We were back in time for dinner and to get ready for the next day ... the first day of the new term and teaching in the new school :-)

September 4th - My Journey - Confidence & Openness

2009-10-28T01:10:00.000-07:00

I've had another a couple of moments of realization this week – recognizing just how far I've come on my personal journey. I was skype texting with a friend and relaying my group experience here – and realized how different it would have been even a year or two ago ... I am so much more open and even loud – in a separate conversation, Barbara chuckled when I said that previously I would have been so quiet and reserved ... her direct quote I believe was “you, quiet?” Then I was walking to the store by myself at dusk and it was getting dark on the way back. I started out nervous but then realized I really was fine. Such a difference from 2 weeks ago when I walked along the road by the hotel having just flown in and really wondered what on earth I was doing here. I've come a long way :-)

While walking and reflecting, for the first time, I did wonder what my life would have been like if I had done this 20 years ago when I initially headed out to 'travel' the world. I didn't dwell on it for long at all – I believe in karma and that people's lives unfold as they are meant to – I have to. Undoubtedly my life would have been different – but honestly, doing something like this wasn't even on my radar then. And I do believe that somehow the second half of my life is going to be worth something different that it would have been if I'd never embarked on this journey. I am committed to ensuring that this life I'm somehow preparing for – not even sure what it is – will happen. It won't be easy and it will take more work but I can do it.

This experience has also reminded me just how much age is only a number. From a purely numerical perspective I can describe all the volunteers except Barbara with the 'kids' label and yet they are so much more than that. As I didn't want to be the 'mum', I hold back on organizing, instead look to contribute the same as the rest. And I'm learning a lot – those that have been here longer and know their way around as well as those as new as me – everyone has great ideas and the nice thing about working with kids is that we are all equal in our knowledge, regardless of age. And I loved to see the natural leaders emerge within the group. The 'kids' are all in their own unique ways, great people and while yes, they are in 20 ish year old bodies, it is their personalities, minds, hearts and souls that they'll take through life and that I got the chance to get to know for these few weeks. I'll be very curious to see where life takes them – they will do great things.

“The best time to plant a tree is twenty years ago. The second best time is now.”

I just found this African proverb (at the end of Dead Aid) – some how it seems right for my life right now. I continue to be so grateful for the journey I am on and I hope in some way, this was an opportunity, first or second, for all of us to plant a tree.

September 3rd - Vancouver Education, Property Tax & Kenyan Politics

2009-10-28T01:03:00.000-07:00

I haven't ranted for a while but this one has been stewing with me ... in the spring, I learned that schools in Vancouver are funded by the property tax of the NEIGHBORHOODS in which they are based. So the schools in the wealthy area of town get more money than the schools in the poorer neighborhoods. And it is compounded by the fact that parents in the wealthier areas have more money for extras (e.g. field trips, programs etc.) than parents in the poorer areas. How is this possibly right? Children should be educated with the same resources to the same standard no matter where they live in a city, province or country. These kids are our, COLLECTIVE OUR, future and it can not be right to discriminate between them based on how well their parents do financially. I am not 100% sure it is true – largely because to me it seems so fundamentally wrong that I can't believe others, including teachers unions, would let it be this way without saying something - but if it is true, then I want to do something about it when I go home. And I am genuinely curious to understand the perspective of parents. As you can tell, this really winds me up – and it has only been reinforced more by my experience here, especially when I see such incredible disparity in everything, but especially education, between these two neighborhoods – one rich and one poor - that live beside each other.

There is not a direct link to my thoughts on Kenyan politics – if anything, I figured this way there is only one blog to either read or skip depending on your interest :-) I've had great conversations on the situation here with a number of people – from GVI staff who've been here 5+ years to Moha and others. I knew very little coming in and was curious to understand more, especially about the situation after the last election. What surprised me most was the strength of tribalism within the political system – and how the compromises coming out of that struggle for power have only created larger government bureaucracy (doubled the size and cost of government ministries) and lined the pockets of more people. My favorite compensation expression of 'there are no disinterested parties' seems to apply in spades here. There is money in the country – you see it in the parking lots of the wealthy supermarkets and apparently it is very visible in Nairobi – but with the corruption, the money is just so tightly centralized with a few. One story I heard was that there is a sugar shortage, with the supply constricted, the price rises, the packages sold become smaller – and yet, apparently there is sugar in containers in port, it is just not let in. Government ministers apparently make decisions that benefit their companies. Then, apparently, the individual tasked with leading the anti-corruption initiative within Kenya doesn't want to do it – if he doesn't believe it is possible, then what? And if a government is one tribe centric, then I do understand how the situation of the last election happens, of course the other tribes want their share. But for the country as a whole, it is disastrous and doesn't give confidence for the future.

Is there hope? I'm not sure. I don't know enough (as you can tell from all my “apparently”'s) to say for sure, but from the little I do know, a positive path forward is very hard to see. I believe the answer must be found from within Kenya – there is money in Kenya and the government needs to be held accountable by the people for how that money is spent – education vs. healthcare vs. debt payments vs. ministers salaries. I start to understand more why revolution and socialism have merit - when focused on benefiting the whole and not a subset of the population – not that I am losing my conservative tendencies but clearly capitalism in the form of corruption is not working here.

What role does the rest of the world have to play? Again, I'm not sure – the premise of Dead Aid (which I still haven't read yet) is that more aid is not the solution and from what I know I agree. If anything, our actions must not condone or facilitate corruption and need to reinforce accountability - and ideally, our actions should demonstrate a purity of intent versus simply satisfying our own political self interests – unfortunately, there never seems to be a shortage of 'interested parties'.

I also have to say, there are good things happening within Kenya – they are committed to getting strong internet and wifi into the country which can only help education, and global connection - and they are on hydro-electric power which is great from a conservation perspective (it does makes things a little more challenging during the dry season ... but the planned power cuts are very manageable).

I also believe there is a role for help but at the micro level – whether finance, education, health or conservation. What GVI is doing at Olives is a drop in the bucket – I think there were two other schools on the 10 minute walk between the house and Olives and I've no doubt they need help as well. But it is an excellent example of directed, grassroots support through partnership as opposed to 'aid' - and which is what they want as was reinforced by Steven, the director of the school.

I want to be optimistic and have hope and faith in the future of Kenya – the people I met were lovely, so warm and welcoming – but it is the kids for whom I have the greatest hope and fear – they so deserve a better future and unfortunately, from what I've seen, by 18, and I'm sure earlier, they have no illusions.

Ok – I'm off my soap box for at least a little while ... :-)

September 2nd - Finding My Teaching Style

2009-10-28T00:58:00.000-07:00

We were down in numbers today and so there was no luxury of two teachers in one classroom – I was on my own at Olives. I decided that I would try a more structured approach - the date went up on the board and the paper and pencils were handed out and we were off ... We started with math – I asked them all to do the same 4 questions to get a feel for where they were individually. It worked well – I had one boy in Standard 5 who was clearly good and so I got him a book and he set out doing questions on his own while I worked with the others. It also proves challenging to figure out who actually knows the answer and who is good at copying down or listening to someone else give the answer. We then spent time on the concept of carrying numbers in addition and subtraction but they eventually got bored with math and wanted English ... for which I was not prepared …

I started with rhyming words and opposites but they knew the easy ones and my brain wasn't coming up with the tougher ones so that didn't last long. I was feeling more than a little 'stuck' – and also getting tired and frustrated – kids were running in and out, it was hard to control – just chaos at times. Kenyan culture and language is very blunt – and one of the girls all of a sudden said 'I want more paper' in a very demanding voice. Inspiration struck ... we'll conjugate the verb 'to want'. Well that evolved into 'what did I want' (e.g. bananas, chocolate, pencils) which then evolved into their filling in the blank of did they want 'some bananas' or 'a banana' and the difference between singular and plural – and all of a sudden it was fun and was working.

So while theoretically I would like to be better prepared for English tomorrow, it was reassuring to see that from frustration, inspiration can strike – and sometimes it is good to just go with the flow! I'm coming to realize that the real key is just being honest with myself ... who am I kidding, I will never be a highly structured, fully prepared in advance teacher ... or traveler for that matter ... that is just not who I am. But it is finding a balance of being prepared enough, having enough tools in my kit, to balance and manage the energy of the kids, the room and most importantly the teacher!

I hit my limit teaching after only 1.5 hrs today - not helped by my lack of voice – my cold moved to my throat and is rapidly turning into laryngitis ... so we headed outside. I discovered that one of the girls had a softball so myself and 3 of the girls from class started playing catch - they were good, one in particular. We were doing pop flies, one handed catches, ground balls – it was very cool. I like using sports and have done it at both Precious and Olives – it's a great way to engage with the kids, have fun and feel like I'm teaching something – either how to turn to your side to get a ground ball (versus having it go through your legs) or catch a fly ball. There is lots of informal football around for the boys but I have a feeling much less sports for the girls – something I'd love to see the school do something with especially when I see how much some of them enjoy it and have natural abilities – but one thing at a time I imagine ...

We were coming to the end of two weeks and would be losing 3 of the volunteers on Friday – so we decided to have a party with a theme and everything ... we all found our most Tacky Tourist appropriate outfits and had a wicked punch, glasses with the tacky umbrella straws and games I haven't played in years ... musical chairs, freeze to the music, bump ... it was a good night as per the evidence on Facebook :-)

September 1st - I Love Teaching Math

2009-10-28T00:55:00.000-07:00

Today was all about teaching math. One of the other volunteers and I started at Precious working with the kids on addition and basic division. We used beans for division - which work great - but at a certain point, the energy starts to fade so using the cardboard flashcards, we introduced 'fast math' – the kids liked it – but again, only for so long. I've enjoyed starting to teach with someone else- just to be able to pass the class back and forth – it helps manage our, or at least my, energy and that of the class. I suppose a more structured lesson plan would also solve the problem ... but it's much more fun adhoc with someone else. I'm reminded again just how much the kids want to learn – they certainly stayed focused more than I expected.

We then took our show on the road – we taught math again at Olives in the afternoon. We had a chalk board this time and it was a smaller group, most about the same level, both of which really helped. It was a laugh. I'm learning about my teaching style – perhaps best described as a little haphazard ... my fellow teacher was much more structured and I see the advantages of that approach ... especially after I went out on a limb and tried competitive math ... maybe not such a good idea ... however, it did show us where they were individually :-) I had a great day teaching – and I've recalled my love of math – I really, really love it. I'd teach them quadratic equations if I could ... I always thought I'd make an excellent high school algebra teacher ... I will find a way to share my love of math with kids when I go home.

I do also catch myself wondering how I'm doing from other's perspectives – have I done as good a job as someone else – how do I compare ... nothing like a little competitive volunteering ... all wrapped up in my need for the approval of others. I realized again I need to think about what is the volunteer experience I want to have - and more importantly, what is the experience I want to provide to the kids and the people I'm working with. A good reminder to keep that front and center and reflect more going into a situation rather than only when I come out e.g. how am I more intentional of the impact I want to create – and for what reason.

The evening was quiet as we were all tired. I'm fighting a cold and have little energy. We had some laughs as I was introduced to the addictive world of Facebook games. I also decided that beer was a good medicinal sleep aid – not sure it helped with the word jumble but definitely helped me sleep.

August 31st - A Day At Olives

2009-10-28T00:51:00.000-07:00

Monday morning and we're back at school. Today I was at Olives and the morning was informal – some drawing with the kids as well as some small group or one-on-one reading and math with the kids. I was working with a girl about 8 or 9 – we started with math as she was doing some multiplication exercises from a book. What I got an amazing sense of accomplishment from – for both her and me – was when I showed her a way to do 'larger' multiplication and then she used the same method again to solve another problem. She had learned a new method – how cool! Then we moved on to reading – she was reading a 'Dora' book (it made me think of my niece as Dora is one of her favorites!) - she was very good at pronouncing the words so we spent time with the pictures working on her comprehension. My disappointment came when I learned she is not actually in the school. She is quick and bright and wants to learn (she stayed in the room to study when other kids went out to play) - with the expansion of Olives, hopefully she will be able to get a place. I really enjoy being able to work with the kids one on one – there is something so rewarding when you see them make a connection.

I'm also realizing how much of a 'pull' factor we are – whether it is kids wanting to hold our hands and walk with us on the way to and from school, (and I'm sure out of their way) to kids wanting to hold our hands in the games – and then the tussles for who gets to hold our hand – with some of the kids getting pretty pushy about it with the other kids – figuring out how best to manage this is interesting ... my instinct is to not reward the pushy behavior and at the same time I can't help but admire their forthrightness :-)

One of our tasks in the afternoon was to help tidy the school – sweeping dirt is a never ending battle and we also went after the cobwebs and then rearranged the desks so that by the end the rooms were looking much more in 'order'. The school floors are concrete but they are old and in a real state of disrepair – we've had a couple close calls where the desk/chair units loose their balance. So Tess, the GVI Project Manager, has persuaded a local cement company to donate lay and new cement for the floors. They were by on Friday to look at the school and the floors and gave their thumbs up - everyone was very excited. We're hoping it can be done in time for the new term but that may be optimistic. Olives is a labor of love for Tess - she found the school when she was volunteering on another GVI project and convinced GVI to set up the program. She has amazing energy and does a great job creating opportunities for the school with a very strong partnership with Steven and Michael.

Once the work was done, it was back to games – including volleyball, which continues to seem more about the adults playing than the kids – but then I realized that it was also about engaging other members of the community, especially important as the school gets established in it's new home.

August 30th - Life In The House

2009-10-28T00:45:00.000-07:00

A week in and we've definitely settled into a good routine at the house. We really are very spoilt with our accommodation. The house is big with 4 bedrooms, 3 baths etc. The living room consists of 1 chair, 3 long foam mattresses and cushions against the wall – the hangout space of the house where everyone reads, naps, eats etc. There is also a dining area but that is taken over 24x7 by the laptops ... thankfully there is wifi and so usually there are at least 4 or 5 laptops on the go, including mine. The internet seems to be the primary form of entertainment for the GVI staff – whether it is facebook, u-tube or downloads – that is their connection to the outside world. Between the internet and the resting / reading, the house is often surprisingly quiet given there are 14 of us living there.

The volunteers all sleep in one room – there are 4 sets of bunk beds and I was lucky to get a top bunk – felt like I was 10 again climbing in and out. We all have mosquito nets so it is a bit of a surreal picture. The bathrooms were good – can't say the water pressure in the showers was the strongest – but ok given it was cold water (cost of heating hot water meant it was only on a day a week maybe – which turned out to be fine given how hot and humid the weather was - I came to prefer the cold shower, even when the hot water was turned on.)

There are a few house rules – we all need to sign out when we leave and we have a daily rota for chores – both cleaning and cooking. The cleaning is straight forward. The cooking is very entertaining! Two people are assigned to lunch and dinner each day – they figure out what to make based on what is in the storeroom and what we've had recently. All meals invariably involve some kind of what I call 'slop' – a term of great affection for the 'throw it all in a pot together with some spices and voila, you have a meal' method of cooking that my Dad has perfected. I must even have picked up a thing or two from him ... though could have learned a little more! Some of my favorite house moments have been cooking with Kieran (a history and philosophy student) – let's just call it the blind leading the blind together with some fantastic historical/political/philosophical discussions and a lot of laughs! In terms of food – again, we're well taken care of. Lots of good fruit and veg and plenty of pasta, rice and beans. Essentially, our diet is vegetarian except for two nights of the week when we get either meet or cheese. The meat night is a big night – especially for the guys – and I confess my vegetarianism fell to the wayside with the need for protein ... and let's be truthful, I just like meat! I've decided the correct term for me is 'opportunistic' vegetarian :-)

In terms of access, we are a 10 minute walk from a small market, fruit & veg stand, japati stand and takeaway food spot – so the craving for a soft drink, chocolate, fruit or beer (also from the fruit and veg woman) are all easily met. We're then a 20 minute walk in either direction to main roads that will either take us into Mombasa or two large supermarkets/malls. So really – everything is very accessible and we all feel safe and comfortable walking around.

And speaking of walking, then there are our feet ... when I first arrived, one of my initial reactions looking at the volunteers already here, was wow – everyone really seems to have dirty feet. Well, after just a few days and one congo line later all I could say was that I was definitely beginning to fit into 'established volunteer' mode ... (editors note: I don't think my feet were really clean until about a week after I got back to London ...)

So a little more than a week in and I am feeling relaxed and comfortable – my only complaint is that I'm still not sleeping well (need my ipod) and I know I'll really be relaxed when I'm sleeping soundly. Makes all the difference for me.

August 29th - First Weekend Off & Giraffes

2009-10-28T00:39:00.000-07:00

Despite wanting to visit Africa for as long as I have, going on safari was never a strong pull – and yet, when I learned we would be taking the kids on an excursion to a local wildlife park, I was excited. Saturday morning 9 GVI volunteers/staff, 1 teacher and 10 excited kids from Standard 5 (ages 10 to 12) headed off to Haller Park. We all crammed into one matatu and were there within the hour. We had a tour guide who was excellent – he told us the story of how the land had been reclaimed from stripped quarry to nature preserve – if I remember correctly, they had bred special bugs that transformed into really, really good dirt from which everything else was able to grow and gave the animals their habitat. First we saw tortoises just wandering through the park and then crocodiles, fish, snakes, baby crocodiles, albino crocodiles (very cool) and a hippo – or at least the back of the hippo as he was well submerged in a pool of water! I also realized that Haller Park is the home of Owen & Mzee – the subjects of a book I'd bought my nephew years ago – the hippo Owen had been rescued after the tsunami and had befriended an old tortoise Mzee – however, I learned they had to be separated as Owen grew up and became an unintentional danger to Mzee. The absolute highlight of the day however, was feeding the giraffes – very, very cool! The kids loved it – though it took a while for everyone to warm up to putting our hands before their very, very large tongues. I found them very feminine animals – their eyes with these beautiful long eyelashes, they looked like they had mascara on. They are just pretty and so elegant. Definitely my favorite!

We were back by midday and the “young'ns”, both volunteers and staff, headed off for a weekend at the beach while Barbara and I stayed at the house with two of the GVI staff for a quieter weekend. Barbara and I decided to be adventurous and headed out on our own to explore the other supermarket and also a local restaurant for dinner. After an initial concern that we were on the right the matatu (“this is the wrong direction, let us out” ... “it's not, are you sure?”) we made it to the supermarket and then, thanks to a good map, the restaurant nearby. We had been warned that the choices were limited – chicken or pork – and that the food would take time ... which was true, as an hour later, it arrived – and was very good. We were definitely outsiders though – sitting in this outdoor area under a canopy, the only two women, let alone foreigners, amongst about 10 other tables filled with Kenyan men there to watch Arsenal vs. Man United ... somethings are the same no matter where you are in the world and men and sports is one of them! After partially negotiating the taxi, we made it home and I have to say, felt ridiculously proud of ourselves that we'd navigated this adventure. And I have to say, the conversation was great, the beer cold and I slept well that night.

Sunday was quiet – a little cleaning in the morning (I definitely have a dirt threshold I wasn't previously aware of ... and despite sweeping every day, the dirt and dust just seem to seep into everything), and then we then headed out to explore more of Mombasa and do a little shopping. We had another rough map to work with and we made it, city chaos and all. Found our way to the fabric street and then back to old town where we'd seen some souvenir shops. Barbara was in search of a mask to add to her collection and we went into every store ... all of whom were quite desperate for business (there weren't a lot of tourists at all). She found a great mask whereas I did my usual scope first, and then I'll be back to buy later ... We found our way back to the main street, back on the matatu and home – we were definitely getting the hang of it. All in all, a really good weekend.

August 28th - Sleep Overs At The Orphanage

2009-10-28T00:34:00.000-07:00

The third organization that GVI partner with here is the Tumaini HIV/Aids Orphanage. The orphanage is very well set up; there is a boys and girls dorm, large kitchen and living / play / eating area. They also have an outside play area within the walls of the building and their own school rooms. There are about 40 kids between the ages of 2 and 10 plus 3 babies and they are very well looked after in terms of clothes, food, toys and most important for them, medical care. The staff are made up of 'mothers' who work 7 x 24 5 days a week and look after the kids. They also have volunteers from an other organization who come in during the day.

Relative to the schools, we spend the least amount of time here and the work is very different. We go in for 'sleep overs' to help relieve the 'mothers'. I went in with Barbara and one of the GVI staff. We arrived in time to visit with the kids a little and then help serve dinner – where I was amazed ... we would serve these tiny kids, these huge plates heaping with rice and beans, and the plates would come back licked clean. After the dishes, we read them stories and then helped get them ready for bed. After tea and chatting with some of the 'mothers', we were in bed by 10pm. We slept in the boys dorm and were there in case any of the kids were sick in the night and needed help. It was a quiet night for the kids – but what again amazed me was how these kids could have these huge racking coughs every couple of minutes and still be asleep.

The morning started at 6am with us and the kids up – them brushing their teeth, our changing beds if necessary and mopping the floors. Then it was helping them get bathed, vaselined up (they put it all over their body – not sure exactly why but I believe because of how dark their skin is and the dryness) and dressed – a large pile of clothes in the middle of the floor and the grabbing begins. As the kids played, we helped get breakfast ready, served and then cleaned up, while they started their lessons and then we were off. The hardest work I've done in a long time between 6 and 9am.

Reflecting on the visit, there were two things that stood out for me. One was related to their HIV/aids status – while we had training before we went and were careful while there, I realized that I had kept more physical distance with the kids than I would normally – I was surprised – despite the education and logical knowledge, the stigma of the disease and my emotional reaction were still very much there. Having said that, my memory of the orphanage is inextricably tied to Selma – a little 15 month old, so tiny and not feeling well with a fever – she just wanted the warmth of someone holding her and within 15 minutes of my arrival it was me when my hands were free – I had this little human heater attached and she wouldn't let go – she was just precious. Normally she is full of light and energy and I saw a little more of that in the morning as her temperature was down and she was feeling a bit better – I was relieved.

The other reflections were of the space and the fund raising – there was something almost claustrophobic about the building set up and I realized that it felt like the kids were trapped – yes, they had an outside play area but they still didn't have the freedom to just run around the village like the other kids did. But more space and freedom needs money and there is a cost to fund raising. The woman who runs the orphanage does an excellent job of networking and promoting the orphanage to raise money – including advertisement/signs on the main roads nearby. Unfortunately, that also means that tourists come by for tours – and the children automatically go into almost formation and sign songs. I had brought my camera out earlier in the morning and had expected a similar reaction to what I get at school where all the kids want their pictures taken – but this time, except for one bright spark of a little girl, the kids were unimpressed. I realized later it must be something they associate with visitors coming through and I really regretted getting it out.

It is a really tough situation – the priority is absolutely looking after these kids and ensuring they have what they need and that takes money – but at what cost? I'm sure the kids would pick a trip to the doctor as being worth singing a song and having their picture taken, somehow, it still doesn't sit comfortably with me ... as you can tell.

August 27th - Arts, Crafts, Games & More Games

2009-10-28T00:30:00.000-07:00

The last few days, when we've been at either Precious or Olives, it's been all about the games or crafts.

At Precious I learned the 'hokey pokey' (which in England for some reason is the 'hokey cokey' ...) as well as some of the local Kenyan games and songs which were really neat to see. However, we weren't always fully prepared and so we'd reach these points of 'so now what do we do'. At one such point, we introduced 'Simon' or rather 'Susan' says ... we didn't try the concept of being 'out' as it was tricky enough for them to understand not to do what 'Susan' didn't say to do ... but they were getting the hang of it by the end. It came in handy again at Olives when due to an extended equatorial thunderstorm, we were hiding out in one of the classrooms and trying to think of small space games ... after animal sounds and actions lost novelty, rounds of 'Susan says' or 'Kieran says' worked, including the discovery of the power of 'Susan says ssshhhhh', then 'Keiran says sshhhh', you get the idea ... then, the game of last resort, a circular clapping game where we repeat the same rhyme (about a frog jumping banks) until one by one, the circle gets smaller ... and ultimately, we can hear the rhyme in our sleep ... the good news is the rainstorms don't last long and soon enough we were back outside with the space to run around.

We had a few days with the kids which had been quite 'unplanned' shall we say, so we were encouraged to bring a little more 'structure' to bear. So, we decided to do a craft project – a favorite of the kids. This time it was masks and we spent the evening cutting small eye masks out of construction paper. When we arrived at Olives, there were only about 20 kids but word quickly spread and soon there must have been about 50 kids. It was absolute chaos – especially as the masks were a little more manually intensive than we thought in order to get them sturdy enough to wear ... 3 hours and much sparkles, confetti, glue and tape later and we had smiling kids everywhere in these wonderfully colorful, creatively decorated and drawn masterpieces.

The kids love cameras and they absolutely love to have their pictures taken and to then see the picture in the playback mode. There were also a few kids, and one in particular, Pascal, who love to take pictures. Today was the first day I got my camera out – and I gave it to Pascal ... when I took a look later that evening, I had 150 new pictures – and some incredible shots – especially closeups of their faces. One thing I noticed however, is when they have their picture taken, the kids will often pose without smiling - and then sometimes you see the sadness or lack of light in their eyes - brings reality back into perspective.

I'm also starting to make personal connections with some of the kids. There was one girl today, maybe about 8. She was very shy, I'd smile and try and engage her in conversation but she knew very little English (she wasn't part of the school) – soon I noticed that she'd always kind of be near me. About 3 hours later, we were playing catch with a ball made up of plastic bags and she was having a great time. And she could really throw! As we were leaving, she walked with me holding my hand until she headed off in her direction. She took a little bit of my heart with her.

August 26th - I'm In The Kenyan 2009 Census ...

2009-10-28T00:26:00.000-07:00

Last night, some of the volunteers headed out for a drink ... but about 30 minutes later, they were back ... apparently Kenya was conducting a census (every 10 years) and so all the restaurants/bars were shut as people needed to be at home when the census takers might visit. We chuckled when they got back but didn't think much more about it ...

Then the next morning, we discovered the school was closed ... due to the census, it had been declared a national holiday and so again, people were staying home waiting to be counted ... apparently the holiday had been declared two weeks ago but not communicated widely ... until yesterday when the President in a press conference asked people to stay home ... I think this qualifies as a 'This is Africa' situation ...

Later that evening, we had a knock on the door - the census takers had arrived ... what did we say? I'm not sure anybody really knew ... but we got started answering their questions. First, they needed to determine who was the head of the household – so, in their minds, that was whoever was the oldest ... in our case, it was the other 'older' volunteer (Barbara) who wasn't about to sign up for that role ... We eventually got that sorted and then they went round the room getting all our personal data – age, marital/family status, parents alive, education level, employment status, use of computer, internet, how often etc. etc ... it was interesting, both what information they were collecting as well as learning a little more about each other! The biggest surprise for all of us was the age of Barbara, who I thought was likely in her late 40s / early 50s, who turned out to be 60 – an inspiration really. The rest of the volunteers where either university aged or mid 20s with the staff in their late 20s / early 30s – there were a few jokes from the census guys about why the women were not married or had children by 25 ... then they came to me ... not married or children at 42 ... I got this look of abject pity, but then at least he had the kindness to say I didn't look that old :-)

I still can't believe that I am registered in the 2009 Kenyan census ...

August 25th - Then We Teach ...

2009-10-28T00:21:00.000-07:00

Today – the teaching begins, though we're starting slowly ... all 8 of us are going to Precious Vision School for the morning.

First thing after we arrive, we're given a tour of where they live – their slum (next to Bombolulu) – I am still just absorbing the slums – my reactions vary from 1) this very small child sitting in the dirt in just a shirt could be from a Fosterchild organization picture to 2) these are peoples homes, why are we walking through? to 3) wow, there is a girl in a pink party dress that was clearly donated by a family in the west for 'children in Africa' – and it is being worn – buttons missing and torn, but clean … at least at the start of the day ... :-) And yet the kids, from the very first have struck me as just kids – smiles on their faces, mischief in their eyes, looking to have fun and by and large ready to laugh and smile. The adults are harder to read – definitely some resignation and there has to be resentment and also almost amusement that we are here and some appreciation – but it's harder to see, which I completely understand.

Precious Vision is the other school that GVI is starting to partner with, initially by providing activities for the kids in the mornings during the school break. The school is run by Jane, a teacher of over 30 years, who focuses the school on children aged 3 to 6 as she believes that is the critical age for education. (This is backed up by recent articles I read on how one of the best investments developing countries can make is in the health and education of very young children – there is a direct relationship to improved economic and social development.) However, this school is run on a shoe string - if that ... very basic tables and chairs, not enough, no blackboards, very, very few books and supplies - just recycled computer she gets from a local office I'm assuming. In fact they are currently locked out of their building for not having paid the rent – though hopefully they are back in the end of this week (a recent volunteer gave GVI the money for 3 months rent (C$100 per month) which they will give direct to the landlord).

But enough preamble ... there are about 50 kids of a wide age range waiting to be entertained ... and we're off … we broke up into 4 stations – art, sports, reading and maths. In the corner of the yard with a little shade and a few benches, another volunteer and I did maths – I loved it! We were using numbers on cut up pieces of cardboard and fingers and toes to do basic addition and subtraction. Initially we were just trying to gauge their level and what they really knew versus what they had memorized. Our first group were older children and we were impressed – no problem with adding and subtracting, so on to multiplication we went ... though when I was trying to explain how to figure out 7 x 8 =56 I might have made it a touch too complicated ... simple, keep it simple ... :-)

Our next group was larger and younger – we were with addition and fingers and toes for a while. Then, we took math 'active' – we had the kids standing in circles and counting themselves, removing some of them, and counting again – how many boys, how many girls, how many girls with skirts, how many with pants ... that kept their attention for a while but by the end of the morning, the congo line that the sports group was doing just looked like too much fun so we had to join in!

I had a huge smile on my face at the end of the morning - it was a great way to get a little teaching in and start to understand what it will be like. And the kids were great – they really do want to learn. And I was tired when we got back ... and it was only just 12 o'clock. Another afternoon at Olives, a good dinner and to bed early.

August 24th - First We Learn ...

2009-10-28T00:06:00.000-07:00

This morning was our training – the TEFL basics – the one that stood out for me, was the concept of 'graded language' – meaning to keep your speech as simple, clear and concise as possible – as opposed to the usual British / English tendency to dress up every sentence in as many words as possible. This will be particularly good development for me ... :-)

Then we moved on to English grammar ... uh oh ... this is why my entire family chuckled when they heard I would be teaching English ... and as anyone reading this blog will also testify, grammar is definitely not my strong suit ... And I lost confidence fast ... what are counting and non counting nouns? Was I ever taught them? I don't think so. But if I was, clearly I didn't learn them ... However, my confidence picked up with our discussion on verbs, adverbs, nouns and adjectives – we were laughing hard as we realized how little we all remembered from school and even more so, that the one who had the most trouble, was the guy actually studying English ... Bottom line, English is a damn difficult language to learn ... and even teach ... how do you explain why the rule just doesn't apply in a particular case, we decided the TIE expression would come in handy ... This Is English ...

We also learned more about the organizations we'd be working with. The main school is the Olives Rehabilitation School (still not sure why the name ...). It was started by Steven in 2001, a local man who wanted to help his community and who couldn't turn away the children literally praying for an education. Primary education is free in Kenya, however, by the time you add the uniforms, books, supplies and lunch, it becomes relatively expensive – especially for the families in Bombolulu. The school evolved to where today, Steven, his brother Michael, wife Jane and 3 other volunteer teachers, teach just over 100 kids – completely for free. They get support from a few places (e.g. a local organization provides lunches) and in part due to their recent partnership with GVI they are able to move into the new school which will also allow them to increase the number of students. Here is the link for the program as well as the blog which explains far better than I.

We then headed off for our first afternoon with the kids. Because it is term break, it is very informal – the afternoons seem to be games, including volleyball for the adults which we're encouraged to play – brings back some high school memories but I have to say, playing with what seemed more like a soccer ball is tough on the arms ... The kids are excited to see new faces – especially the guys who quickly become human jungle gyms – seriously, at one time there had to have been 6 or 7 kids hanging off the arms, back and chest of one guy – who needs the gym?!? The kids love to be twirled around – which I discovered sets a dangerous precedent as before long there are a lot of kids wanting to be twirled and I'm more than a little dizzy. I hang back a little, just trying to take everything in.

August 23rd - A Very, Very Simple Church

2009-10-20T01:10:00.000-07:00

After having visited a ridiculous number of incredibly ornate churches in my three weeks in Italy, today I was in one of the most simple. In fact, you can't really call it a church - it is the largest room of the old school, where they have Sunday school for the kids and then after a service for the adults.

We went to the Sunday school - there were 10 of us from the project and we filled up almost half of the room and the rest was all kids. (This is the same room where 30+ kids were taught regularly.) Joseph, one of the teachers from the school, led the service with what I can only describe as very passionate and joyful preaching as well as some spirited singing which the children also participated in. The children all introduced themselves and then the new volunteers introduced ourselves to them – I was Susan from Canada where it is very cold ... best I could come up with on the prevailing weather theme and continuing the Canadian stereotype ... It was a great opportunity to start to get to know the kids we'll be working with as well as the founders of the school (more on the school later).

In the afternoon, we went into Mombasa for a tour of 'Old Town' with Moha, a young Kenyan and former GVI volunteer, whose family have lived in Old Town for generations. It was fascinating – we started at the local market (their equivalent of Granville Island) with great looking fruits and vegetables and some incredible spices and coffees – apparently Kenyans don't produce many spices but consume them in everything! The Old Town is very maze like with narrow streets winding their way along – the good news is that it is on an island so hard to get to lost. What struck me most was just how Arab and Indian influenced the city is, Arab especially in terms of architecture. From what Moha said Mombasa is very different from the rest of Kenya, the rest being "more Kenyan / African". He was a great source of knowledge and very open about the Muslim faith and customs as well as the politics and corruption within the government. By the end we were very familiar with the TIA expression - This Is Africa ... and we were encouraging him to run for office!

After the tour, we wound our way back to the main street where we were able to find a place open for lunch – many places were closed as Ramadan had just started. The main road really is just pure chaos – traffic and people everywhere, with lots of street / sidewalk vendors. We jumped in a mutatos and 30 minutes and 20 shillings (about 25 cents) later we were back home where everyone quickly settled into what I expect is the common routine – hanging out in the shade of the living room reading and napping – hard to go wrong really ... I fit right in :-)

August 22nd - Slums to Supermarkets

2009-10-20T01:01:00.000-07:00

I met up with the 5 other new volunteers and the staff first thing this morning - all very straight forward, and yet a bit of a blur ... I was initially in observation mode ... money belt still firmly in place – and yet, I quickly started to relax. About an hour later, we were driving into our compound (gated with security guards) and then we were at the house (inside another tall gate). We had a full morning of orientation – documentation, program overview, tour of the house (really relative luxury), safety regulations etc. There are a total of 8 volunteers and 2 primary GVI staff (plus 2 others and a few partners who are also living/staying at the house). It seems like a really good group as we start to get to know each other – and I realized that I am being much more open than I would have been in the past – and it feels easy and good.

In the afternoon, we headed out to visit the main school we'd be working with and also to visit the supermarket and stock up on any necessary provisions. Five minutes from our door and we were in the slums – the pathway in is just dirt, garbage and goats, but then we got into the more “residential” area – cleaner, adults by the huts and kids everywhere. It's very quiet except for the kids with their constant refrain of “how are you?” - what am I meant to say? We quickly learn that the dialogue goes something like this: them: how are you?, us: fine thank you, how are you?, them: either fine or how are you again ... depending on what they actually understand or just what they've learned so far ... (This refrain will continue the entire time I'm here - they do not get bored of it at all ...)

We saw the 'old school' – basically 3 very small rooms and we're amazed – they have over 100 kids and I have no idea how they all fit in. We also went by the new school – a real school which had been sitting empty but which they've now rented (thanks in part to our donations through the GVI program) – the first term will be starting in two weeks – and I can't wait to see it in operation.

After a 10 minute walk through the slum, down the main path/road, we reached the main road into town and got into a minivan or 'mutato' as they're known – their transportation system – and incredibly efficient. The road is full of these minivans going to various destinations and people just jump in and out as they need to. Each one has a driver and a tout who shouts the destination, gets the passengers and collects the money ... and hangs out the side of the van ... I had to chuckle as I realized what I'd seen the night before and feel more than a little silly at my reaction ...

In about 15 minutes, we're at a very modern mall – ATMs, gelato, a pharmacy and a large modern supermarket ... I get a good wander in, everything seems there, including granola and raisins – a small thing perhaps but my 'normal' breakfast is very welcome after 4 months of travel. Then back in the mutato, walk through the slum and home ... such disparity, so close is again, more than a little surreal.

Back at the house, we're settling in and over a great dinner, start getting to know each other ... 6 of the 8 volunteers are university aged Brits, either beginning, middle or end of bachelors or graduate study. There is another 'older' woman as well – an American from Cleveland. Great conversation and lots of laughs – a good start. Then I have a 'wow, I'm actually here' moment when I realize I am feeling very comfortable, surprisingly comfortable. I am sure there will be different stages and emotions that I'll go through while here and I am open to them all.

August 21st - Africa, Holy F*** I'm Here

2009-10-20T00:53:00.000-07:00

I was off the flight from Mombasa, money belt securely in place ... I'm such a 'tourist' ... found my bag and yes, it did seem like it may have been opened along the way (as warned in guide book ...), however, everything seemed to be in place. I had a driver meeting me and I was very happy to see my name on a sign as I came out of the terminal ... out into the muggy heat of the day and then within 5 minutes of being in the taxi and barely getting outside the airport gates, the driver says 'my country is so corrupt' ... ok then, and we're off ...

Driving through Mombasa, my first impression was that I was glad I'd gone to Bali first – different yes, but some similarities ... from the chaos outside the arrivals area, to the traffic chaos and just the sheer humidity and climate. Then there were the differences - the dust and dirt, the number of people and my first glimpses of real poverty and more derelict looking schools than I could have imagined. Then, my taxi driver goes into the gas station and pulls up to the air supply – which I'm surprised by given I've noticed the gas gauge is on E ... - and then he leaves when told the air is not working ... will I get to my hotel?

I was glad to arrive at the hotel – all seemed fine – the front desk staff were welcoming, yet I still found myself trying to actively find my trust while simultaneously getting my negotiating hat back on. After a few hours of relaxation / jet lagged dozing in my air conditioned room with free wifi and more American TV than I've had since I left home (everything from an old hour of The View, to Americas Next Top Model to Al Jazeera, which I have to say sounds and looks a lot like the BBC World News), I headed out to explore. I thought I would go find the hotel where I am meeting the rest of the group tomorrow – see if it really was 5 minutes and I could walk or did I need a taxi.

It was more than a little surreal ... a long road with gated hotels off the side. Packed minivan shuttles careening by, guys practicing soccer in a field, others walking – or just small groups hanging out beside the road or under the tree, mostly men, very few woman. I definitely stand out. I am curious as to what they say when I pass and at the same time am ok not knowing ... As I walked, I was focused on how to be safe – almost every minivan has a guy leaning outside and it definitely gave me pause – yet, I also don't want to the tourist visibly demonstrating fear and clutching my bag as cars or people go by ... After finding the hotel and exploring a little, I got more relaxed on the way back.

For the first time on my travels I am actually feeling proud of myself – people have said before that I've been brave, but I haven't thought anything to date was really above/beyond. This feels different. I am trying to be courageous – and also remembering to just breath and be – I know it also always takes me a couple of days to settle in and this will be no different. Having said that, I'm really looking forward to joining my group tomorrow morning – I don't think I could do this on my own.

August 20th - Journey to Africa

2009-10-20T00:50:00.000-07:00

Since writing my last post, I've continued to mull me and decision making – such a key aspect of life really. I realize that it is often the big decisions which I make on my own, quickly and sometimes what must seem like rashly. The decision to volunteer in Kenya was one such decision – “website looks good, what the heck, I'll fill in the application and see what happens” to “oh, I've been accepted, excellent, what flights should I book” ... and once the flights are booked, well I'm off. I do trust my gut – that is the indicator that tells me if I'm making the right decision or not.

However, this decision making style does contribute to the whole lack of planning and research thing that has dominated my travels so far ... and while it has some pros, there are also some definite cons. What drove the point home was reading a travel book on Kenya while I waited for my flight to leave, and getting more of a sense of what awaited me ... off came the necklace and earrings that I thought were simple enough. I also realized just how little I know about where I was going ... this is a huge journey and it feels more than a little half-assed at the minute – especially for having been something that I've said I've wanted to do for the last two years. I just might try doing a little more forward planning in the future … then again ... any takers on the probability?

Because the trip was so last minute, I needed to get a visa on arrival. I'd been advised to not mention that I was volunteering or the organization ... “it was easier that way”. So when I was filling out the visa application form on the plane, I did as suggested ... and then there is the line that says 'I swear everything I've put is the truth' etc. etc. – I thought about it and signed and put the form away … and then 5 minutes later, realized I had a knot in my stomach ... the same one I always get when I'm contemplating something not fully on the up and up ... I just couldn't do it. All I could think about was what I would say it they really asked about why I was here – vacationing on my own, with one nights hotel booked and no guide book ... come on ... So out came the form again and I added a little more information and felt much better. The impact of my grandfather being a tax accountant and incredibly honest has clearly had a multi-generational effect. And so what happened? Well, it could have been because I was literally one of the last visas to be processed, but the woman simply asked if I was on vacation, to which I said yes, and barely glanced at my form before starting to complete my receipt for my visa fee. As usual, the concern of what could happen, was much worse than what actually happened ... but I didn't have a knot in my stomach waiting in the very very long line that I know I would have had, if I hadn't changed my form. That's just who I am ... sometimes, I can live with the knot and other times not.

I had flown direct to Nairobi and then had a connecting flight to Mombasa. While waiting, I sat with four woman, a Malaysian, Croatian, Japanese and Mexican, all off to a friends wedding in Mombasa. As you might imagine, they all worked for different agencies of the UN and had lived in Nairobi for 4 to 5 years and were about my age. I was very intrigued – and in our brief conversation felt like I saw through the crack of a window into their life and work there. I sensed, they were quite settled in their lives, reasonably fulfilled but not jumping up and down with excitement (they also all seemed to be in Finance supporting the agencies ...), they had traveled extensively and 3 out of 4 were single - which wasn't the best of advertisements for their life (yes, I know, definite pot calling kettle judgment there). My disillusionment with the UN didn't dramatically shift - it seemed very political e.g. the debate was whether or not the next leader of a particular organization was going to be African or not, based on the last couple of positions filled (it didn't seem like their HR was rocking any worlds ...). All in all, a very interesting first conversation to be having within my first couple of hours of arriving in Africa!

So, What Have I Learned?

2009-08-21T12:45:00.000-07:00

Monday was travel day – back to London before I flew out to Africa on Thursday. It was a day that started at 9.30 am with the train to Milan, then the bus to Bergamo, the plane to London Stansted, the train to London and the underground to where I was staying. I arrived 12 hrs later, very ready for a good catch up over a cup of tea.

I had lots of time to reflect on the journey – what had I learned about myself over these past 5 weeks ...

What kind of a traveler was I? A few things jumped to mind:

I can be cheap ... I don't like paying the full tourist price for a bottle of water and will wait and walk and get one at the 'regular' price
Give me a map and I have a whole other level of comfort and confidence
I love to see from the top of things – so stairs, tower, hill, whatever, I will climb to the top – it's all about getting maximum perspective
I'm much better at asking for help – and enjoy the brief connections and conversations which that act often produces
I budgeted this trip – and yup, have a lovel xls with many tabs, a few models and both detail and summary views ... can't take the analytical xls geek out of this traveler :-)
I've really enjoyed the train – it's relaxing and a great way to see the countryside and smaller communities
And finally, I'm really not a backpacker ...:-) not a 1 night here, 2 nights there kind of traveler (unless I'm in a car). I much prefer to be in one place for a few days, get the feel for it and have a chance to find the 'real' town versus a flying visit focused on the 'must see' sights. Having said this, I need to balance that and not stay in places too long either (both Siena and Florence were a day or two too long)

What have I learned about myself? The trip has been a great opportunity to see my decision making style in action – it was even starting to frustrate me! There is no doubt, I am slow to pull the trigger. Yes, I like to have all the information and understand my options – but that isn't actually where I get stuck. What prevents me from pulling the trigger, especially when I have a good gut feel for the right decision? On this trip, I noticed how much I relied on talking an issue through with someone else before making the decision. Talking things through has always been part of my thought process and I really enjoy it – but should it be necessary? Fundamentally, it comes down to seeking validation from others versus being truly confident in what I want – versus what I should do or what others might expect. Comes back again to “what others think”. And at a certain point – how much should that really matter? This is my life and I need to live it for me. I'm clearer and more conscious of this – and now let's see what I do with it!

My other realization, I am done with traveling on my own for a while ... I've done a lot of traveling on my own over the years – often because I needed the vacation and there wasn't anyone to go with – not that truthfully, I worked terribly hard to find someone ... This trip, I've traveled on my own purposely – and it's been great – but by the last week in Italy, I was definitely getting tired of my own company. And I had such a great time with my friends in Santorini – I knew what I was missing. I'm glad that Africa and India will be with other people – and I'll be curious to see how I do – I'm not worried in the least. I know it will go well.

Wow – I can't believe one trip is down – 2 more to go. I am absolutely loving it!

My Last Days in Italy

2009-08-21T12:44:00.000-07:00

My formal sightseeing in Florence was done – and I had the weekend to just hang out and enjoy the city.

I had planned to do my shopping on Saturday – I had a few things I wanted to buy and wanted to look around the stores in the less touristy parts of Florence. First stop was the market. I was successful there - my bartering skills from Bali kicked back in – I finally bought a light scarf / shawl which would have been perfect for all those churches I've been in with a little too much shoulder showing ... but when I was in the market, I noticed that all the other stores seemed quite quiet ... I asked someone and yes, it was a holiday today ... best laid plans and all. I wasn't that disappointed - I haven't been fussed about shopping this trip. Traveling has helped me realize just how little I actually need and I really can't see the value in getting kitcshy gifts for family and friends (forwarning here) - other than of course for my niece and nephew ... :-) Though I did have one request from the friend I'm staying with in London to buy her a purse ... so the hunt was on – this would be fun - however, given the holiday, with only the touristy shops, no luck today - hopefully better luck tomorrow. And so with 36 degree weather and no stores open, the pool quickly became the best option.

My Saturday evening was lovely – even including 3 very full on lemming experiences. I decided to try Oltrano for dinner and so crossed the Ponte Vecchio – it was lovely – there was a very good street guitarist performing and a number of people just sitting on the bridge listening – very mellow in the early evening light with great views of the sun setting on the buildings near the river. I eventually ended up at one of the main tourist squares for dinner and enjoyed just watching the world go by. This was followed by walking, with my gelato for the day, and finding a Charlie Chaplin'esq mime entertaining a number of us lemmings on one of the big streets. All in all, a genuinely nice touristy evening in Florence.

Sunday morning was lovely - very peaceful as I walked through the Boboli Gardens which were up on a hill and from one spot offered a stunning view of the surrounding countryside which looked beautiful. It reinforced my view that next time I'd have a car and spend my time in the countryside.

The afternoon, with a few more shops open, I hit jackpot with the purse - so successful in fact that if my friend doesn't like it, it will be coming home with me (ignore what I said previously about material possessions - will take some time for that to apply to purses and shoes!) I succumbed to a final exhibit - a special one on Galileo - something else I've visited very much with my brother and nephew in mind - they really enjoy this kind of thing and I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed it (kind of like the dinosaur museum in Montana). And then, some final time sitting and reading in the sun by the pool. I knew it would be some time before I was able to do that again so I definitely took advantage while I had the opportunity :-)

And finally dinner - for a number of days now, I had seen this little trattoria, a block from my hotel, always with a line outside - this had to be a good thing. So I headed there for dinner and had a great time and great food. It was definitely a local spot with the waitress ebulliently (not an overstatement) greeting the regular. A caprese salad, some pesto pasta and a glass of chianti - life is good. After my last gelato and walk through Florence at night (the Duomo is stunning at night), the evening was perfectly capped with another street performer, this time a young woman wearing jeans and singing opera with live accompaniment - wow, she was good and had a large group of us standing in the cool of the evening listening to her sing. It fit the setting perfectly.

I really enjoyed my time in Italy - again, can't believe this was my first time here. The lifestyle is so relaxed and the people are lovely. The history and art almost overwhelming, but I've definitely had a good taste. And speaking of tastes, the food - definitely a highlight! I will be back :-)

ciao Italy

Florence - Ahhhh David .....

2009-08-21T12:43:00.000-07:00

I wrote you that I was coming ... but I never heard back ... but then I'd heard you were the strong silent type ...

I didn't come see you right away ... I wanted to be sure I was in the right mind set especially as I'd heard different views as to whether or not you'd lived up to expectations ... but I was curious and so did see your replica in the piazza and scope out your neighborhood the day before ... partially to determine when was the best time to visit - I didn't want there to be a big crowd when I saw you. By the 4th day, I couldn't wait any longer and so I swung by late in the afternoon.

First though, I toured a wonderful exhibit at your residence … a collection of work by Robert Mapplethorpe, an American photographer who focused on the human body and the perfection of form – often nudes. I believe he was inspired by your creator, Michelangelo (who I have come to highly appreciate as well) and tried to recreate the effect of sculpture through photography I believe. There was a collection of his work and then additional pieces perfectly juxtaposed with some of the sculptures. I really appreciated the mix of ancient and modern – made it more real for me.

Then it was time ... I walked through the hall towards you, reasonably lemming free, and we all stood around you in awe – a few in seats - just taking you in. You truly are the perfect example of the male form ... stunningly magnificent. I was not disappointed ...

I wish I could have met you in real life and shared a glass of wine - but then I wonder, would the reality have lived up to the dream? As with all things, best to appreciate the actual, not the hypothetical - and it really was a lovely half hour of appreciation which I take with me :-) And can I just say, nice ass ... :-)

NB I managed to sneak a picture of David – will get him loaded as soon as I can.

Florence - The Real City

2009-08-21T12:42:00.000-07:00

I was determined to escape the lemmings and find the real Florence – and my strategy was simple: get up early and head to the outskirts of town.

I was out by 8.30 and there was a lovely calm as I walked through the main part of town, then crossed the river and walked up through the Michelangelo Park to a wonderful piazza and view of the city – and I was still early enough to almost have it to myself. I also found two lovely churches nearby – one where there was no one else in it other than me and it was just so peaceful. The other was in an active monastery, surrounded by a very old cemetery and further up the hill with another lovely view – but most impressive were the stairs leading up from the road – very grand – like something out of an old French chateau.

I then headed back down and wandered through the Oltrano section – ran into some lemmings but bypassed them quickly and found a lovely local bakery with pizza as in Rome – I was very happy with my portable local lunch! I also found another lovely church in a very residential part of town – Santo Spirito – it is incredibly plain from the outside – not even gothic, just a cement frame and yet on the inside, it is wonderful – very graceful and almost delicate - another real favorite.

It was lovely morning and I was feeling much better about Florence. I then had a lovely afternoon by the pool followed by dinner at a local pizzeria with very, very good pizza!

The next day was museum day and I was feeling ready to get back into circulation with my fellow lemmings. The morning was the Uffizi Gallery and I had learned my lesson from Rome – I bought the audio guide and had a good tour through their collection of renaissance art and the classical styles leading up to it. I really enjoyed the two paintings by Botticelli's (the Birth of Venus and Primavera) and my absolute favorite was a painting by Da Vinci – it had the most amazing colors but what struck me most was the emotion the overall picture generated combined with the depth of detail within. I could just stare at it for hours – which is very rare for me and art!

Other than Da Vinci's painting, my favorite part of the museum was the building itself. Designed by one of the leading architects of the time, the palazzo is two very long rectangular buildings joined by a closed in bridge like structure at one end. Very graceful. The masterpiece however, are the stairs inside – magnificent. (A theme in case you can't tell ...)

I also found a great spot for lunch - I had been walking around the main part of town and everything was just so touristy ... so I headed back near my hotel and found a little coffee / lunch bar - sat at the bar eating a so so greek salad and feeling at least a tiny bit like a local :-)

A small side note, in Rome I had this true ah ha moment when in a museum, I caught a look in a mirror and realized just how much I collapse my chest, even when walking – I was surprised as I always thought I had good posture standing. So it's been something I've been working on especially when wandering through other museums ... and I've been surprised by the effort it takes to lift it up - and also the natural settling that my shoulder blades then do into my back. Little by little I just might be getting there.

Florence - I Have A Room With A View

2009-08-21T12:41:00.001-07:00

The hotel where I am staying is really lovely – I'm on the third floor and have a beautiful big window that overlooks the courtyard and the pool – though the sun comes in strong in the afternoon so I keep it closed, especially as the air-conditioning is not what I would call strong ... I decided to sleep with the windows open and I woke to beautiful cool weather and a most magnificent view – the sky was a gorgeous blue, the sun was coming up behind me and the orange and terracotta colors of the buildings across the way were reflected back in the most brilliant hues with the spires of churches in the distance. I was in Florence and it was starting to feel magical.

With a renewed sense of wonder, I headed out to find my vision of Florence. And always one to want perspective of where I am, I climbed the bell tower first (thought I was climbing the dome but as I was three quarters of the way up, I saw the folks on the dome in the distance ... close but no cigar ...). The view was magnificent and really showed how tightly packed Florence was – as well as some lovely roof top gardens. Something I discovered in Siena which is also done in Florence is the concept of taking artifacts off of churches and putting them into museums and then putting replicas back on the churches. Initially it struck me as more than a little odd – but then I realized, this is their art history and especially when pollution was much worse, they had to protect it ... short of building the museum around the church, this was the best solution. So I was off to the museum for the cathedral – there were many beautiful pieces but the ones that really struck me were a wood carving of an emancipated and distressed Mary Magdelene (her hairy looked matted and greasy – the delicacy of the sculpture was just incredible), one of Michelangelo's last sculptures which almost breathed life and then the carved doors from the Baptistery know as the Gates of Paradise – the literal 3D depth of the carvings were breathtaking - I've never seen anything like it. (Unfortunately, I'm having trouble uploading pictures at the minute which is a real pain ...) Sculpture has definitely been the art form I've discovered this trip – I really enjoy it – though in limited quantities ... point me in the direction of the famous piece and don't make me walk through the halls of heads on wall ...

I then headed back into the land of the lemmings – to one of the main squares, the Piazza della Signoria. But the initial glimpse of The David (replica) in his natural surrounds as well as the wonderful museum quality sculptures in the outdoor shaded Loggia definitely made it worthwhile. Then I'm wandering through the maze of streets towards the river and I start wading through lemmings ... and there it was, the Ponte Vecchio – I knew it was famous but had no idea what it was like until I saw it. It was nice but I have to say, didn't knock my socks off ... the lemmings didn't help the charm factor unfortunately.

By this point, I was fairly tired – it had been a full day and I'd been constantly on my feet ... but there was one more museum that had peaked my interest in the guidebook ... the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum – yes, that's right, a museum of shoes!!!! What I hadn't appreciated at all, was his inventiveness – he had hundreds of patents – including that of the wedge heel. Now ladies, I know you'll agree with me when I say, thank you Salvatore, thank you! Definitely one of my favorite museums of the trip :-)

Florence - First Impressions

2009-08-21T12:40:00.000-07:00

I arrived mid afternoon – and after all my big talk of preferring cheap apartments to hotels, I'd gone with a great deal on a hotel by the train station (never usually a good thing) with air-conditioning and a pool ... when I realized it was 10 Euro a night more than the non-airconditioned apartment in the center of town ... and the weather forecast was calling for mid 30s ... well, it became a no brainer!

I headed out to explore – Florence is so contained that it was 5 minutes and I was in the prime shopping district and the town square and then another 5 minutes and I was at the Duomo – which really was incredible. However, my first impressions were 1. ok, this is really, really hot (mid 30s) and then, 2. wow, there are so many other lemmings ... by the end of my afternoon walk I'd come to the conclusion that while the size and containment of Florence was a definite plus, the down side was that it just meant all the lemmings were constrained in that space and so the density factor was high. That and as in Rome and Siena, being mid August, all the Florentine's had rightly escaped to the cooler countryside.

Florence held two attractions for me – first, what I thought would be the magic of the city (A Room With a View is one of my favorite movies and had highly romanticized the city) and second, it was the home of a wonderful yoga teacher from whom I'd taken a workshop in Vancouver. I was really hoping to get to one of her classes ... however, by the time I got to Siena, I realized that in all likelihood, she too would have escaped Florence for the summer. But I was determined to try ... So I got the instructions for the bus and map in hand, I headed out. All went smoothly and I found her studio in a residential neighborhood – in the same building as her home I believe – and yes, all was very quiet ... so no yoga in Florence this time.

As I was there, I explored the neighborhood a little – after the chaos of the center of town, I felt like I could breath again. It was a lovely neighborhood – little stores, restaurants and one of my top 5 churches of Italy. It was a new church – hadn't been sure those existed til now ... and beautifully designed – very light with great use of wood, brick and beautiful stained glass. It gave me faith that the Church was a part of the 21st century community.

So all in all, I was in Florence but definitely didn't have an immediate 'wow' reaction ... hopefully I'm able to find “Florence” in the next couple of days.

Distracted With Africa

2009-08-21T12:39:00.000-07:00

As I've said earlier, I've wanted to go and volunteer in Africa for the last couple of years and yet, in all of my time off, I hadn't gotten anything sorted ... I was starting to wonder just how much did I really want it? Friends had given me people I could talk with to get more information, often of their own experiences. And yet, I followed up with no one ... I had the time, I just never picked up the phone or sent the email ... I'm not sure why and it's not been something that I have thought about / reflected on until just recently ... my gut is telling me part of it has to do with my insecurity reaching out to people, especially those I don't know ... and I think it also had to do with my fears of going – yes, I wanted to go and I was unsure – if I talked to people and figured something out, I really would be going ... I'm realizing that my travel approach can be summarized as a two step process: “mull / have a general idea” and then “rip the band aid off” e.g. jump into something quickly and cross my fingers ... I have to explore the whole reaching out to people thing more – especially as it is through talking to people that I most like to learn – research (as we've already established) is not a preferred method - however one I do hope to improve in ...

When I was driving through the US, I decided that the easiest thing to do was a Habitat for Humanity program – I had looked at them a number of times over the years. They appealed to me because their projects were very tangible, they seemed to work closely with the local community and I liked the idea of doing physical work. There were even a couple of trips during August / September that I was interested in, including one to Ethiopia … however, it took me too long to get off the mark and when I was in Greece, it became clear that it wasn't going to come through.

So, all of a sudden, September was just around the corner and I had no plan ... I was really cutting it to the wire, especially if I wanted to volunteer. And if I couldn't volunteer, I'd decided I would do the organized safari / overland trip thing as that would at least get me to Africa. So I was back on google (my best friend traveling) and came across the GVI organization – I had seen their site before (someone had forwarded it to me I'm pretty sure) - they had some volunteer opportunities in both Kenya and South Africa (Capetown) working with under privileged children and the dates looked possible. So, what the hell, I filled in the on-line application form (for Kenya as I thought that might be a more remote / African experience than Capetown) and must admit, didn't think too much more about it – especially when I hadn't heard anything back the first week. Instead, I continued to research safari trips and had found a couple that could be options but nothing I was so excited by that I booked. Then just as I was leaving Siena I had an email ... the volunteering was a go if I was interested and could get everything done quickly - the departure would be in less than 2 weeks - needless to say, distraction went into overdrive! I arrived in Florence most concerned with finding an internet cafe where I could print and scan medical forms, information, plane tickets etc.

And I was excited, after all this time and all this futzing or lack of doing, I really was going to make it to Africa and volunteer. I had no idea what to expect but just knew it would be a hell of an experience – one way or the other!

Siena ... or Other Small Tuscan Towns ...

2009-08-21T12:38:00.002-07:00

So, after my second day in Siena, I really felt like I had seen it ... it is a lovely little town with lots of charm and places to wonder, but really, there isn't a huge amount to see – especially as after my first museum, I decided I needed to take an art 'holiday' or I wasn't going to make it through Florence ...

So, I thought I would go exploring some of the little towns nearby – my options were, to take an organized tour with my fellow lemmings or head out on my own ... I went with the later option and decided my first adventure would be to the little town of Monterrigioni – it wasn't in the guide book but my Italian friend had recommended it as one of his favorites and it was only 15 minutes away by train and so I thought why not ...

Well, my first clue should have been when the station said Castellina in Chianti - Montegriggioni ... I walked out of the train station and into quite a modern and very, very quiet residential area – hardly surprising given it was late Sunday morning but I was still surprised – I expected some kind of a 'tourist' town and so wondered where everyone was ... I walked around, trying to find the main square – managed to find the church and the park and that was when I saw the road sign “Montegriggioni 2.6 km” and realized I wasn't quite close enough... So instead of a medieval walled city, I spent a couple hours wandering the streets and climbing the local hill for a nice view of the countryside and a glimpse of what I imagined was the small walled town of Montegriggioni in the distance ... and then I caught the train back.

So much for try #1 ... so I decided I to try again the next day but this time to Montepulciano - in the guidebook, which said it had a lovely church and that the train would definitely get me there ...

Aghhhhh – clearly, I was not meant to explore the small towns of Tuscany from Siena. I had been to the train station by bus before with no issues – I was told I could take bus 3, 9 or 10 ... unfortunately, I wasn't told in which direction to take said buses ... I ended up at the opposite end of town and no where near the train station ... by this time I had well missed the train and given the schedule and the fact that the journey was a good hour, Montepulciano was not in my future … I was pissed. About 10 minutes later however, I calmed down ... discovered a few more streets that I hadn't seen before as well as another church and more importantly a large cup of gelato and the world was looking a little brighter!

It's simple, next time I'm in Tuscany it will be with a group – we'll rent a house in the countryside as well as a car and putter about the smaller towns at our speed and pace – I'd been told this is the best way to see Tuscany and I now fully believe them!

I had a lovely dinner my last night in town - I was sitting on my own at one of the places on the main piazza and another woman on her own asked to share my table. She was German and my German was actually better than her English so we had this halting conversation with plenty of laughs as we tried to understand each other. It turned out that she was doing the same trip as me just in revers having just left Florence on next on her way to Rome. She was turning 50 there and the rest of her family were meeting her. We shared advice on where we'd already been. The real irony however, happened the next morning when we met again at the train station (and I realized my German wasn't as good as I thought given I was sure she was driving ...) - we laughed, chatted some more and then realized we were both called Susan ... somehow to hear her still being adventures at 50 reassured me as to what was possible. It was a very cool random meeting.

Siena - Musical Evenings

2009-08-21T12:38:00.001-07:00

I'm quickly finding my grove in this lovely little town. The first day was the requisite trip to the Duomo – quite spectacular – as well as to another old Gothic church. The difference really is huge between the two different styles and I almost prefer the Gothic for the simplicity – somehow with all the space, these churches often seem quieter and more peaceful. I also wandered the streets - lots of lovely shops and still lots of sales happening but the new 'season' is also starting to arrive – lots of purple, gray and other rich jewel tones.

I am really enjoying the size of Siena – everything is so close, including my hotel. I'm able to head back after lunch and avoid the heat of the afternoon – open my windows, hear the city in motion and get some writing done. Then head back out again for another sight, some dinner and a wander.

My second evening here, wondering the streets with my gelato (ok I'm converted, a gelato a day really is necessary ...), I found a free classical piano concert – the students of the local music school were performing in this wonderful room with high ceilings, carved windows and frescos on the walls and ceiling and we were sitting on old fashioned chairs. When I shut my eyes, I could imagine life in another day and age with everyone arriving in their finery for the evenings society. Though I couldn't have done it in what they would have been wearing ... it was hot in that room!

The music theme continued the next night. I'd seen an advertisement for a classical music concert in a small town with a shuttle bus so I thought why not … I didn't know what to expect but I got on the bus and off we went. Through beautiful countryside for about an hour and then it seemed like we were in the middle of no where – where were we going? It turned out that the concert was held in the ruins of a very old monastery in San Galano – we were listening to the Sofia Festival Orchestra perform sitting out under the stars on a beautiful clear night. Just wonderful and such a treat that I never expected and will remember for a long time.

Siena - A Magical City

2009-08-21T12:36:00.000-07:00

I was sad to leave Rome – as in Mykonos, I'd found my groove. But my feet were thrilled! The last two days had been action packed with sightseeing and my feet really hadn't recovered from the very first day let alone the last two. Thankfully, Siena is a small town – there is only so far one can walk!

This was also going to be my first adventure on the regional trains – I can't remember the last time I've been on a train ... will be cool. It turned out to be quite straight forward – one connection and the second train was tiny ... only two cars. The country side was lovely – rolling hills and literally fields full of sun flowers – just beautiful.

I found the local bus at the train station (like a mystery tour going through the bowels of the mall ...) and then the hotel where I'm staying – which I must admit, after a couple of weeks of what has felt like one room apartment living, feels a little strange. I miss my fridge and you know what, I really don't need my room cleaned or my towels changed every day ... and I miss having my windows open and feeling like I'm part of a community ... however before I sound too ungrateful, cooked breakfast will be nice and I have a feeling I will appreciate the air conditioning... Net net, I'm as happy if not happier in 35 euro a night rooms than 65 euro a night hotels – who ever would have thought!

I wasn't sure what to expect as I headed out to explore Siena and find dinner. I'm staying at the edge of the main town. I started walking towards old town (quick pit stop at the grocery store to get the lay of the land – I love grocery stores – somehow they tell you so much about a place) and then I realize I'm in this maze of very narrow streets with tall buildings on either side and it starts to feel incredibly medieval. It is definitely tourist season and there are lemmings everywhere – but it can't take away from the sense of walking through history – it really is quite something, I'm smiling :-)

I found the main square, Piazza del Campo – a really wonderful architectural space – can't call it a square, more like half of an octagon. The flat side has the town hall and then there is open bricked space that slopes up with restaurants along the edges. I found a chair and had a lovely glass of Borolo and some fresh pasta – even with all the other tourists there was something quite peaceful about the place, more civilized somehow than the really touristy squares in Rome. Maybe it was the sun setting on the tower of the town hall but it is just magical.

Rome - My Top 10

2009-08-10T14:37:00.000-07:00

I have a friend who is getting married soon and then headed to Italy for his honeymoon with Rome the first stop – he asked me for a Top 10, so here it is:

Walk, walk and keep walking – truly the best way to see the city, especially the center with the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Piazza Popolo and Piazza Navona to be seen early on.
Explore the local neighborhoods – and escape from the Lemmings … that is where the real Rome is to be found – neighborhood markets, delicatessens, family restaurants and inexpensive, very good gelato.
The Pantheon – I had no idea what to expect and I loved it – my favorite monument by far. Just wonderful.
St. Peters & The Vatican – The Lemmings were out of control and unfortunately, took away from the experience for me (that and I was a little hung over …). See the Vatican Museum first and early – follow the signs for the Sistine Chappel but realize that they are leading you through the entire museum on the way so enjoy it and don't get focused on just getting there (like I did). Better yet, get a tour, I think it really makes a difference. St. Peter's is incredible and a climb up the dome is a must – you actually get to see inside the church from the dome height and it is a surreal experience.
The Churches – I'm Christian but not of a particular faith and I loved the churches – the architecture, the sculptures but mostly the sense of true community that can be found in them - just poke your nose into any one you see and you'll get some lovely surprises.
Galleria Borghese – wonderful. A beautiful old palazzo filled with art. The tour was very helpful. It is in the middle of the park which is lovely to walk thru – it's also worth walking to the Pincio Hill for the view of Rome.
The Forum, Palatine and the Colosseum (all one ticket but can be seen over two days - highly recommended!)
Capitoline Museums – depends on how much of a fan you are of 'old rocks' – not my favorite museum but the setting of the museum is beautiful and there is a very old statue of an emperor on a horse that is quite stunning.
Galleria Dora Pamphili & the Galleria Arte Moderna – depends on how much art you want to see. The 1st is good for the opportunity to also see the palazzo but the 2nd has a much better selection of works and is set in the Borghese park which is lovely to explore.
Il Vittoriano – a more recent monument to the war dead that for some reason just seems out of place in Rome – in part because it is white whereas everything is is of a more natural reddish colour. It gets mixed reviews by the locals but because of it's size and color you seem to see it everywhere. It was worth climbing the steps for the view of the city and the Forum in particular.

As you can see, with a little creative grouping pretty much everything can be captured! It is a wonderful city with a ton to see – my net net, don't over do the sites, instead, be sure to take the time to just wander, explore, sit, eat and drink and appreciate the life around. You can always go back. Have a wonderful time!

Rome - A Perfect Last Day

2009-08-10T14:29:00.000-07:00

God, Art, Old Rocks and Great Food is how I'd summarize it … pretty much what you'd expect for a great day in Rome!

I started the day by heading out of the center to one of the 4 main basilicas in Rome that had been recommended to me – the church of San Paolo. It was huge and stunning in it's simplicity – more gothic style I believe. Then headed back into town and by fortuitous accident, found myself at the church of Sain Maria Maggiore – there was some kind of celebration or special service happening as there were lots of people, a Cardinal on his way out and the tail end of a service in the main part of the church. I decided to sit and observe the service – as I think I've said, I'm not overly religious but I do have faith. And something happened in that church – when everyone greeted each other and sang together, there was such a strong feeling of true community that I was taken aback by my emotions. There are many things of the Roman Catholic faith that I don't agree with but there, with the commitment to their faith and community was something to part of if only for a few minutes.

In my wanders from there to the Galleria Doria Pamphili, while looking for a sushi restaurant from my guide book, I stumbled across what ended up being the best pizza I've had. My philosophy over the past week is that there is really no reason not to have pizza every day – it just somehow would be wrong not too. (The idea was kindly concurred by my father – from whom I acquired said love of the food to be truthful!) It was a little spot with lots of locals and it was very, very good – one piece potato and the other zucchini – another thing I am going to have to try and make when I go home!

The museum itself was alright – more overwhelming for me from an art perspective – just too many paintings I knew nothing about. The main highlight though was a portrait of a Pope by Velazquez accompanied by a sculpture of the same pope by Bernini – it was a good combination and the painting was quite amazing – apparently when the Pope saw it, his comment was 'ah yes, that really is me' – a testament to the realism of Velazquez' work – see I am learning a little! But what I enjoyed most about the museum was the palazzo and how it was decorated – incredibly ornate and huge – and it had been lived in up to about the 50s or 60s based on the furniture and décor. A peak into history.

Then came the old stones of the Forum, Palatine and Colosseum – I had saved them to the end, in part because I kept avoiding going during the heat – which seemed to last all day ... so on my last day, they could be avoided no longer. I did get an audio guide which was helpful. Pretty sure I didn't appreciated all the rocks to the extent I “should” have – but I was impressed – again, such an incredible new perspective on the concept of 'old' – hard to imagine. I enjoyed the Colosseum the most – given how much of it is still standing, I could take myself back to that time and age – my mental picture of Russell Crowe in the Gladiator didn't hurt either!

Finally, a last dinner in one of my local restaurants – and believe it or not, well with all the pizza, you should believe it, my first pasta of the trip! I've never been a huge fan – I like it but don't love it and hardly ever have it at home. Clearly, this is because I am not having the right kind ... wow – I had something simple: thick pasta with cheese and pepper. I like simple food and this was one of the best dishes of pasta in my life – all the richness of the butter and cheese and pow of the pepper were perfect together. Something else to try and recreate ... I have an idea – a yoga workshop in the hills of Tuscany combined with cooking classes and good wine ... think I really could be on to something here!

Arrivederci Roma ... a magical city, lemmings and all, and I will be back!

Rome - The Art ... I'm Overwhelmed

2009-08-10T14:22:00.000-07:00

I am not one of those travelers who does a ton of research before I head out to see a place. I know I want to go, have a few ideas of what is there that I want to see, get a guide book and plan to read it on the plane or once there ... Italy and Rome are no exception to that modus operandi – what I knew I definitely wanted to see was the Colosseum, the Vatican and the churches and fountains I'd read and seen in Angels and Demons (I know, me and my pop culture ...). I also knew very little about the history – I like history but have always been more of a fan of 20th century history and have never had a huge interest in what I would call 'old rocks' ... and then the art, well, you can likely sense a theme here but again, I knew nothing ... what defined the renaissance? I didn't know. All the art I really knew were the impressionists ... the easily palatable art ... (I do love and have been many times to the Musee d'Orsay in Paris – my favorite museum in the world).

So what was I doing here? And what was I seeing??? Within a couple of museums, it became clear, I had no idea! I decided the best way to try and tackle the problem (was not to get on my free wifi and wikipedia myself to death ... research, again, not my thing ...) was to pick a couple artists and sculptors and focus on finding their work and seeing what I thought. The artists were Michelangelo (of course), Raphael and Caravaggio and the sculptor was Bernini. I also started to spring for the guided tour or audio tour (though unfortunately not until after St. Peters and the Vatican – a mistake).

I learned the most from the guide at the Galleria Borghese, my favorite museum by far – not large and yet with a collection of the really good stuff. An explanation of the renaissance that resonated (sorry, couldn't resist) and explanations for some amazing paintings that really helped me appreciate them. I realize it is the stories I learn from and he had some good ones to share.

But it is the sculpture that has become a revelation to me – I had no appreciation before but it can be truly quite incredible – the realism and emotion that can come through a brilliant piece of carved stone is incredible to see. There were examples of Bernini's work that just amazed me. I think part of why I appreciate it is the link to architecture, something, again I know very little about, but have always loved. A beautiful church or building or staircase are what I notice – the staircase at the Vatican was almost my favorite part of the museum. (My actual favorite was the Sistine Chapel but only partly for the fresco, the other aspect which struck me was the sea of humanity (read lots and lots of lemmings) which filled the room all serious and quiet, looking up ... that is the image I believe which will most stick with me.)

So my understanding and appreciation for art are growing ... slowly and I'm trying not to get too overwhelmed but rather enjoy what I'm seeing and not worry too much about what I may be missing or not seeing the true beauty of. My plan for Florence is again, just to try and focus on a part of it, not all of it and sign up for the guided tours when ever I can. I will say, the one thing I am most looking forward to now much more than I as before is Michelangelo's David.

Italian Men - A Lovely Treat

2009-08-10T14:17:00.000-07:00

Characters they are! I met one – asked me for the time in a park and then we were sitting on the hill overlooking the Circus Maximus and he was explaining the history that goes with the Palantine, Forum and Colosseum. He was my age'ish, originally from Florence but taking a year out of his career to do his masters in art history and currently studying for his final exams. He truly loved and appreciated Rome – his favorite city and for a Florentine to admit that, was saying something. He was more than a little surprised at how little I knew about the history but happy to teach. We ended up going for drinks and dinner a few nights – it was lovely. I saw a side of Rome I never would have otherwise.

I know I generalize when I say that one of the characteristics of Italian men is the wonderful way they appreciate and almost celebrate the femininity of women. And not just Roberto who I met, but others – whether it's the man in the car looking at you and smiling as you both wait for the green light – they notice. There are many other characteristics I know (something about their mothers, never being entirely sure what they say is strictly fact ...), and as with all of us, some good, some less good – but this one characteristic, for this moment in my life, I'm appreciating to the fullest and treating like a gift. Bellissimo :-)

Having Time When Traveling - A True Gift

2009-08-10T14:13:00.000-07:00

I am so lucky, I know – I have 6 days to really relax and enjoy Rome. I don't feel rushed, I feel like I can take the time to explore, or just hang out - I don't have to rush from sight to sight to sight.

It's meant that most of my days start out pretty slow and it's lovely. A little internet, a little yoga, some breakfast, maybe pop out for a quick errand, a little more internet and then head out and explore. I find I either head out earlier and then am back mid/late afternoon for some recovery, a shower and then find dinner or else I am not out until early/mid afternoon and I stay out for the rest of the day/evening. Basically, I try and avoid being out in the full heat of the middle of the day and it seems to work well.

But then the question becomes, what do I do with this time? The place I'm staying has free, very good wifi – it was the first thing I checked when I arrived and then I was soooo excited when I got it working. I've realized just how important it is for me to fell like I am connected when I'm traveling – especially when I'm traveling on my own. All of a sudden, I'm a fan of Facebook and very grateful for skype – even a few lines of chat with friend or family member really makes a difference in my day. The internet also helps me manage my 'what next' anxiety – I can go online and check out the train schedules, possible places to stay for my next destination or next trip. And it is so nice to be able to google these things without time pressure.

However, about 3 days in, I realized too much wifi can also be a bit of a curse ... I can google just about anything and everything – one google search leads to another and the hours disappear ... I've realized it can be like me with TV, just external stimuli, not accomplishing anything, just passing time ... It became apparent to me as I realized that I hadn't written my blog or read anything other than my guidebook since I'd been in Rome ... not what I want to be doing. A good lesson and reminder, this time is a gift that I don't want to squander.

Rome - Walking, Walking & More Walking

2009-08-10T14:06:00.000-07:00

My first few days in Rome were really just doing a LOT of walking and exploring different parts of the city. It is how I always like to first almost, get to know a city – that's what's most important to me traveling, to get a sense of the pace, the people and the culture ... and then, I can figure out what I really want to see of the sights and go from there.

After my first evening in the center, I must admit, I was almost overwhelmed both by the city and all of the other lemmings that were here with me (all the Italians were quite sensibly off enjoying their holidays on the beach or in the country!) So the next evening, I headed across the river to explore another little neighborhood, Trastavere – more up market and well known than where I was staying. It was very picturesque with lots of cafes/bars and restaurants. I found a lovely little spot popular with the locals (Ombre Rosse in Piazza Sant'Egidio) for my first glass of Italian white wine and bruschetta. It was a very pleasant way to spend a couple of hours, just watching the world go by and enjoying seeing how the Italians socialized with each other - they know how to have a good time.

The next day I headed back into the center – my primary mission was not a historic monument or even a quaint street to wander, it was to find a store that sold Birkenstocks (I had the addresses for three ...) as my feet were otherwise going to die ... Success was achieved and I am now the proud owner of my first pair of Birkenstocks (A little humble pie to be had as I must confess to always having thought these the most ugly of shoes ... and I like my shoes ...).

The shoe problem having been solved, I headed off to explore the other half of Il Centro – and discovered the Pantheon which I will admit to never having even heard about prior to getting here. It is incredible – built in the first century AD, it is just a marvel to me. Ever since seeing my first 'old' European building many years ago (being from Canada, 'old' has always been a relative concept!), what has always amazed me is the sheer practicality of how these most amazing architectural structures were built. In Rome, this amazement has just gone to a whole new level, together with a whole new relative definition of 'old'. Seeing the Pantheon really put that in perspective for me.

I really enjoyed the neighborhood around the Pantheon – it was lovely to wander through. I found the Piazza Navona with a lovely church, the Sant A'gnese in Agone and an incredible Four Rivers fountain by Bernini (more on him later) – it was a lovely but popular piazza, lots of lemmings ... for a smaller piazza and a drink, I preferred the Campo de Fiori as it was just a little bit quieter.

And despite my love of walking, by the 3rd day, I managed to figure out the bus system - very easy and a good foot friendly alternative to potentially too much walking :-)

Rome - Getting to Know My Neighborhood

2009-08-10T14:01:00.000-07:00

I've rented a small apartment in Testaccio, a small neighborhood about a 30 minute walk from the southern edge of the center of Rome. Well more correctly, it is a good sized room with a bathroom and pocket kitchen within an apartment that also has 4 other rooms. It is in a lovely old building with a wrought iron huge main door, stone foyer and stairs and an old fashioned lift, the kind like a cage ... it is like stepping back in time and I love it! My favorite feature is my view ... I open up this lovely huge window and there is my courtyard and all my neighbors ... older Italian women in their housecoats putting laundry out – there are laundry lines in front of each of the window – very clever really. And below me there is a little garden patio where this older gentleman is out in the mornings painting and then in the late afternoons gives painting lessons. It feels very much like real life in Rome and I love it!

I'm still managing a little yoga in the morning – and here, I set my mat up right in front of the window and sit facing out ... I may become the neighborhood gossip but that's fine with me – the breeze coming in is lovely and all the sounds just kind of float by me. Very happy.

My first morning, I went out and explored my local neighborhood – what had seemed like nothing the night before was all alive during the day with the metal shutters up and the little pocket stores open for business. I found a great little deli / bakery selling fresh bread, pizza, sandwiches, cheese – it all looked wonderful. And I managed to get my sandwich without losing my place too many times ... in Italy the queue system is not as respected as in other (northern) European cultures I've experienced ... at a certain point, I asserted myself and was rewarded with a smile! What also made me chuckle was with my very, very limited Italian and then a few other foreign words thrown in for good measure, I think it was the “c'est tout”, by the end of the transaction, the guy serving me thought I was French ... I took it as a real compliment and knew it would give great amusement to all my French friends ... :-)

I then wandered through a lovely local market (specialty shoes, how perfect!), found a little five and dime store equivalent (perfect for the band aids my feet were already crying out for) and stocked up at my local supermarket. I also saw lots of little local restaurants as well as the local gelato shop … I was going to enjoy my week here I was quite sure!

Roma - Magnifico!

2009-08-10T13:54:00.000-07:00

I arrived. It was a bit of an adventure and a good introduction to the Italian psyche so I will share ... My flight from Mykonos was a charter – 40 other vacationers returning home, the majority young guys, average age about 25. (My first chuckle was watching more than a few of them try and get their luggage below 15 kgs ... clothes flying everywhere ... and me smug with my 10.8 kg bag ...) The flight was fine, but then, we land, where are our bags ??? After 30 minutes, they sent us to from terminal A to B – have you ever left a terminal in search of your bags? It felt wrong, but I'd found 2 responsible looking young guys of the group who seemed to know what they were doing and followed them ... out through customs we went ... then a phone call and no, back to Terminal A ... back in through security a group of us trooped, me, grateful I still had my boarding pass ... even an announcement, bags from our flight on this carousel ... there we all were ... an hour later, still no bags ... turns out it really was meant to be Terminal B – so now there are all 40 of us, back out through customs, back in through security etc. etc. most fun, was watching these Italian guys shout at, curse and gesture any airport worker they saw on our way, the hands were going, everything – we were a sight to be seen … and then we got there, all our bags sitting beside an empty carousel ... welcome to Italy!

I arrived at my apartment by 4pm – after a quick tour/introduction from the rental agent and a quick unpack, I was out by 5pm – I felt like I needed to see something recognizable just to prove to myself that yes, I really was in Rome. So back to the metro and into Il Centro – it's funny, from a nervous travel perspective, I had absolutely no qualms figuring out the metro – I know big cities and they are familiar to me / I am comfortable in them. And in this city, it is me and a very large number of fellow tourists ... or as I call them, lemmings ... on the train, I tried to figure out what, besides the obvious (guide book, map, backpack) gives us away ... I decided one thing was definitely the brand new comfortable walking shoes – man or woman, that was the clue – and for the women, the new styled Birkenstocks are definitely the flavor of the day – combined with a fresh pedicure ... and I have to say, with my reefer flip flops and feet from 2 weeks on the beach, I'm in need of both!

Within 20 meters of exiting the metro, at the first spot I find, I have pizza!!! I LOVE pizza – always have and if I'm really honest, likely one of Italy's top attractions for me! I was starved too as the last meal had been breakfast. Then I find the Spanish Steps – wow – I join the crowds on the side in the shade, sit and I tell you, that was the best pizza I think I've ever had!

After a wonder along the streets – high end shopping mecca of Via Condotti, main shopping drag of Via del Corso (lots of really good sales at the minute), one of the main piazzas, Piazza del Popolo, a lovely little church, St. Maria del Popolo, then a wander back through the Trident area to see the Trevi Fountain – incredible and for the moment, relatively peaceful (I would be back later in the week when you couldn't reach it for all the lemmings ...). Then I figured, I would just keep walking – especially, once I saw the Colosseum in the distance ... I walked past the Forum, saw another wedding party (I keep seeing them in all the strangest places ...) and then was at the Colosseum - wow! Then back through regular neighborhoods to my little room ... a magical first evening ... and yes, I really was in Rome :-)

Mykonos - My Last Day

2009-07-29T12:44:00.000-07:00

I've had a lovely last day today. Pretty much the same as most of them here ... the beach of the day, was Paradise and as I said, I really quite enjoyed it - especially as it is a pebble sand beach. The wind the last couple of days has been quite extraordinary - there's been almost a coolness in the air which has been lovely. And I'm grateful for it as otherwise, I was told, it would be about 40+ degrees.

Then dinner tonight at the Dublin ... where else? A final Greek Salad for the road - I think I've had one everyday for the last two weeks ... and a beer while I upload my blog.

After these 10 days, I am getting to know people - I have a regular table at the cafe and the conversation with the woman in the little store is going beyond just how was your day. At my hotel, I'm starting to feel like part of the family. It's been really, really lovely.

And at the same time, I'm ready to move on - I'm looking forward to getting more active in Rome and seeing something new. What will I miss most? Likely, the easy, relaxed quality of the life here. What am I looking forward to the most? Other than just the experience of Rome, I have to say, a Caprese salad will be a good change of pace, laundry will be wonderful, I'm stopping for the first pedicure I can find, a lovely chilled glass of white wine in a piazza and after having less success with the ouzo here, maybe try a little grappa :-)

I will be back to Greece - sometime in the winter to see Athens when it is cool - there is a new Parthenon Museum which is meant to be spectacular - and anytime, to the Greek Islands. While Santorini was my my favourite, I don't think you can go wrong with any of them and they are all there to be explored!

Efharisto Greece - it's been so very, very good :-)

Mykonos - Exploring the Island

2009-07-29T12:21:00.000-07:00

About half the days here, I've headed off and explored part of the island – or more accurately one of the 24 beaches on the island. It's been a great, relaxed way to see the island and continue my rest and relaxation theme!

Though the first day, was so windy that when I was exploring Mykonos town, I found a pool to sit by – free with lunch. I was lucky as I sat beside a Portuguese mother and daughter – her daughter is half Greek so they spend the summer here each year – lovely people, who shared with me some good advice on places to eat in town and beaches to visit. Armed with her advice, I headed out!

Mykonos has a great bus service that runs from the station near the center of town and goes to a number of the popular beaches. So I hope the bus from Ag. Stefanos to the Port and then find my way through town to the bus to the beach. I've been to the upscale Platys Gialos, the smaller scale Ornos and then finally Paradise Beach - figured I had to at least see it! It actually was fun - lots of people and amenities (cafeteria, gift shop, ice cream shop, full meal take away - everything) and a really fun atmosphere - the party was just getting going as I left about 6pm - more people getting off the bus than on ...

With my success in Santorini behind me, I rented an ATV for a day in the hope of getting to some of the more remote beaches – it turned into the “3 beaches in one day” tour - stunning Fokos in the north, the secluded Ag. Sostis on an inlet and then Super Paradise ... at the start of the day, I thought I'd stop at two beaches but the wind was so incredible at Ag. Sostis, I had to leave as it was a fine sand beach and I was starting to eat it! Driving through the island was also beautiful - saw the small local communities, ran into a herd of goats and saw many, many little churches - a little of the real life on Mykonos. I had a great day exploring and realize just how much I love having the independence of my own wheels - I really love the feeling of freedom.

So out of 24 beaches, I managed to see 7 in 9 days, not too bad. They were all beautiful but with the wind, the ones with more pebble like sand where the clear winners!

Mykonos - The Town & the Nightlife

2009-07-29T12:01:00.000-07:00

The main town of Mykonos is quite a charming, traditional island village – lots of narrow streets, just a maze. A 5 minute bus ride away, I explored it on my second day and while I enjoyed the energy, I quickly realized I was happy to stay where I was as there was no good beach to speak of right in town. (Santorini made me realize just how much being near a good beach matters to me – I love being able to easily wonder down for a swim and back. One day I will live on the water - that is a dream.)

A few days later, I decided to head into the town for dinner – after all, it was why I'd chosen the island, so I should explore the nightlife. Friday night, here I come ... and about 30 minutes later, there I go ... ah, there were just too many people for me, in too tight spaces and I was pretty quickly overwhelmed. And hey, for a place that looks at you oddly when you're eating alone, I just couldn't do it at a busy restaurant on a Friday night ...

So back I headed to my little town, ending up at the Dublin for dinner - I was hoping the band that was there in the afternoon would still be playing, but alas not. It was still good – and very relaxed.

I headed back to my room about 11am - as I'm walking up the hill, everyone is heading out - clearly it's a late night party scene ... I got the scoop from 2 Irish girls still in Uni – Paradise beach for a wild but expensive party starting about 5pm or the clubs in town starting about midnight, though again, expensive e.g. 40 or 50 euro just to get in … CRAZY money ... while they kindly invited me to join them, I just couldn't ... instead, I heard the scooters as people returned from any where between 3 and 6 am ...

The real net net, is that I am just not much of a 'partier' – hardly a surprise to those who know me and really very ok by me. Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a good cocktail or two and also a good dance – just with people I know in a place I'm comfortable in. What is a little ironic is that I've actually managed to find the quiet island part of Mykonos to hang out in – just proves I create my environment ... it's been a good lesson – I am who I am and I'm perfectly happy with it!

Having said all that, I did make it into the main town for dinner on a calm Tuesday night – just me, a few other tourists staying on the island and the hordes that came off the cruiseship ... mayhem, but I stayed – and sat beside a lovely father and son who were here for a few days – though they were heading back to Athens so the son could get to the good parties! Side note - in case it ever comes up in trivia, it is true, cruiseships still play the Copa Cabana ... before i said, maybe when I was 80 I'd cruise, now it will be when I'm 80 and deaf ... :-)

Mykonos - My Lovely, Lovely Days

2009-07-29T11:42:00.000-07:00

I've settled into a really lovely routine here.

My first couple of days here were a little unsettled, I'll admit, that nervous feeling in my stomach – was I going to stay put or find different accommodation, how long did I want to stay, when did I want to go to Rome, where would I stay … you get the idea. I then would spend way too much time on the internet googling away, checking in with travel agents, asking room rates of nearby hotels – again, etc. etc. It did make me realize that i needed to sort out my next stop, so I could relax and enjoy where I was - good lesson. By the third day, I'd sorted Rome and made my decision about staying put, I was able to get into the life here.

Part of why I'd decided to stay on Mykonos for the full 9 days was because I wanted some time just to breath and to reflect and get caught up on some things – my blog for one and also some very long overdue correspondence. It was time I thought I would appreciate once back in the noise of touristing travel e.g. once I got to Italy!

So, my day, I wake up – not too early, about 8am – though it's been slipping later as I stay up later ... I have a lovely slow morning with breakfast on the patio and then maybe a walk, reading or writing my blog or emails. Keeps me going until about mid day. The morning is when, if I'm going to feel at all anxious I do – so I've been trying to explore what helps ease it – I've found the walks good – a chance to talk to myself a little and regroup.

I've also found I've been able to get a little yoga in – I've been struggling with the 'self-practice' part of yoga for a long time now – and all of a sudden one day I decided, I just needed to do some – however, little it was. Ironically, I decided the same day I moved into the new room – but even with less space, I've been able to do some sitting, breathing, hip openers, uttanasana and headstand, with a little shavasana at the end – does it count when it's on the bed? It also has helped with the nervous pit in my stomach - I breath better after. Very nice to get back to.

The afternoons have been either discovering other beaches or just hanging out at my local beach – about 50/50. My local beach – when not too windy – is lovely with great swimming. I definitely go for the extortionate beach chairs (an advantage of not traveling on a true shoestring ...). About mid afternoon I head to the Dublin Cafe on the beach for a late lunch and a little internet time – best connection in town. Then it is back to the beach for another couple hours of the lovely early evening sun. I start to head back about 7pm.

I haven't read so much in a long time and that has been great as well. I brought with me 3 Vanity Fairs, two old Newsweeks and an old Mcleans and a book. I'm determined to get through as much as possible if only to manage the weight of my backpack for the next leg. So after it taking me a week to read the first Vanity Fair on Santorini (I read them cover to cover), the 2nd was 3 days and the 3rd was two. (PS the Sarah Palin article in the July edition is priceless!) One Newsweek is down and the other currently has me completely engrossed – it is the special edition 2009 issue from the beginning of the year with 36 articles on everything from foreign affairs to energy, the environment and the arts from leading international scholars, world organization leaders, CEOs and heads of state titled 'How to Fix the World – A Guide for the Next President' – it is a fascinating summary of the key issues in the world today and their prescriptions for the future. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to leave this one behind ...

The evenings are nice – I get cleaned up, try and scrub the sand out of my hair and ears (the wind is incredible ...), maybe do a little more internet and then head out to dinner about 8.30 or 9pm. I've solved the eating problem – I go out to dinner every second night – order two dishes to make a real meal out of it and then take home the remainder for dinner the next night … ingenious or what! I've made friends with my two local establishments – the owner of the local taverna thinks I'm just plane odd (he doesn't see a lot of single tourists me thinks ...) where as the folks at the Dublin are fine with me hanging out – if only for a beer – on those nights when I've had leftovers! They also have great music - the owner, an older Greek gentleman (wife is Irish), even has a little DJ station and he'll sit behind there all evening finding the next right tune.

Then, there is a final stop on the way home - to the little market, which is open all hours it seems, to get yogurt and a piece of fruit for breakfast the next morning :-)

So, as you can see, it's quite a lovely life here on Mykonos :-)

Mykonos - The Perfect Pear

2009-07-29T11:24:00.000-07:00

My little hotel is in Ag. Stefanos - a small little community right centered around a little beach in a cove. It is family run, simple and lovely – it sits atop a very large hill with amazing views overlooking the beach below and the main town of Mykonos in the distance – and has the most magnificent sunsets. It is a 10 minute walk down, straight down, to the beach - finally, I am getting some cardio that my friend and trainer back home would be proud of ... and walking up a large number of steps on the coast of a Greek Island beats walking lunges on the sidewalk of 8th & Cambie any day of the week :-)

The family works hard on the business, with very long days - before 8am to well after 10pm it seems. They have about 20 rooms of which 6 above the main house all share this wonderful balcony - the rest suites in the back. The majority, especially the ones with the balcony where I am, seem to get rented as needed by one of the two sisters who meet people like me getting off the ferries and then liaise with them during their stay - they both seem run off their feet. (One told me that she and her sister go for a weeks vacation in September - just them, sans kids and husbands - from what I've seen, they earn it!) The busiest it's been was over the weekend – Saturday night was packed – it's also when a lot of Greeks come down from Athens for the weekend. The beaches and parties of Mykonos call – more on that later. The is also a scooter/atv rental business which the brother runs. Having said all this, really it is the parents who run the place – from supervising everything from the cleaning, to maintenance and looking after the garden (which is beautiful). It is their home and you can tell, they remain in charge. There english is not as good but a Kalimera or Kalispera and a smile will get you one in return.

Initially I was in a lovely little room off the balcony. I kept signing on for a 'few more nights' as I realized I had an exceptionally good deal and it really was a lovely place to stay. I was paying 35 euro a night versus the 60 to 70 euro I found at the other places nearby. Then after 4 nights, when I told them I wanted to stay for another 5, I was told there might be a 'reservation' issue – the next day I was moved downstairs ... a much smaller room with less ventilation and access to the patio and clearly hadn't been rented in a while – the grotto you could say. It seems I had been getting a very, very good deal and for a night or two that was ok but 9, they weren't so sure. However, there was one big upside – it was a good few concrete walls away from the motor scooter area which seemed to get most action anywhere between 3 and 6am in the morning and had previously been right outside my window ... there also was a most magnificent view of the ocean – so simple and quiet is just fine with me. I renegotiated it to 30 euro (i'm getting better at this negotiating thing ...) and then found I actually preferred the room - so it was a win win all round :-)

The title for the blog came from my second day here, I was walking in from a day in town and I stopped to speak with the sister who had rented me the room, the mother then gave me a fresh pear from their tree – oh so sweet, both their pear and the life here.

I'm a Backpacker ... Heading to Mykonos

2009-07-29T11:09:00.000-07:00

It took me 6 of the 7 days to figure out what I was going to do when my friends left – stay on Santorini, head off to the next island, but which one … I decided it was time to leave – I love Santorini but it was where us girls holidayed and I needed to head off somewhere new to really start my own adventure.

I was surprised at my emotion the day before we were all leaving – all of a sudden it struck me I think – wow, I was really going to do this backpacking, unplanned thing by myself. A little teary, but then ok – I'm still not too sure if it was the unknown aspect or the alone aspect that was driving the emotion but I definitely had a pit in my stomach. I think it was the unknown primarily, but definitely compounded by being on my own.

So, where to? I'd had numerous recommendations for islands – and my usual instincts would have dictated heading to one of quieter islands but I then decided I'm here for new adventures and to do things differently – so Mykonos it is – not the true, true party island of Ios, but bigger, more alive and fun than Paros (the quiet one). It was also an island known for it's great beaches – perfect!

The next challenge was what to take. I knew I'd overpacked a little when I left London, but thought I was ok as my friends could take some stuff back with them ... then I got serious about it thanks to their advice and own backpacking experiences – did I really want to carry all this? Well, the nice shoes were going after the first night when I discovered they were a little tight with heat swollen feet ... as were the Vancouver appropriate t-shirts, the long pants, an extra pair of shoes ... in the end, more than half the clothes I brought went back and my pack was so empty I could fit my yoga mat inside with space to spare ... (done after the picture was taken) and it was about, if not less, than 10 kgs. The lightest I have ever packed in my life!!

I had a ticket for the fast ferry to Mykonos which left a little after my friends were leaving for their flight home. After learning that I really should have booked my taxi the night before (there are only 39 on the island apparently), the hotel was able to find someone to drive me to the port on time. Then on the ferry. As I'd booked late, I was in business class … what a way to get this trip off the ground! The ride was initially quite smooth, the occasional crash on the waves but nothing too bad – I got out my PC and started working on my blog ... then about an hour in, things changed. It was so rough, it was like being on an out of control rollercoaster. I like my adrenaline but for what ever reason, this was not sitting with me at all well ... I've never been so sick ... (I always thought I had a strong stomach but per my Mom, I was in similar shape crossing from Spain to Morocco when I was 5 ...) At least I wasn't alone – the steward was handing out bags like candy canes followed up by the garbage ... there was significant relief when we were within 5 minutes of port and the majority were moving a little gingerly as we got off the boat. What I learned afterwards was that it was an extreme wind – close to the level where the boats don't travel. All I know is next time, a nice large slow boat for me.

I didn't have any accommodations booked for the night – more of my go spontaneous strategy – I knew there would be plenty of offers right off the boat. But I have to say, the way I was feeling, the first one which seemed even remotely ok was going to be it ... I could find something else after if needed. I lucked out. Within an hour I had been to the place, unpacked and was down at the beach – a lovely little bay with a couple of restaurants along the water and plenty of sun chairs. I was much happier actually in the water than I had been riding on top of it :-)

Santorini - Ah ... the Food & Drinks ...

2009-07-27T14:04:00.000-07:00

A prime mission on our arrival was to find good food and a place with good drinks. Traveling with these girls was going to be fun!

We lucked out on day 1 when in search for lunch, we found a great little taverna on the water. Really, really good food and reasonable. We stumbled out, found our way back to the beach and happily slept off a Greek salad, Santorini salad (featuring local Santorini tomatoes with wonderful flavor),tzatziki, bread and grilled octopus … life in Greece was going to be good. (It took us a few meals, but we finally figured out how little we actually needed to order.) By the end of the week, we'd been back 4 times and the family recognized us as we approached. The best meal was our final lunch of the most amazing lamb (vegetarian, who me? where?) and wonderful saganaki (fried cheese – a favourite of mine that I'd remembered from my last time in Greece) and the unforgettable Santorini salad. mmmm good.

Then there was the question of predinner drinks – we initially stuck with our hotel bar – 3 for 2, a good deal, until it became clear there was a reason they were cheap. So onto the Navy bar – the draw initially was free wireless, but we kept coming back – cute waiters didn't hurt but the real draw were the very good (and strong) cocktails and what became 'our' seats - right on the front where we could watch people stroll by to our hearts content. We had some good conversations and a lot of laughs ... in fact, our last night there, we just stayed - after our lunch there was no need for dinner beyond the drinks and a few appies. It was very good fun.

In between these two haunts, we found other good spots as well as some good bakeries – the 1.50 euro spanokopita is hard to beat for lunch and the pastries made excellent late afternoon snacks. And of course a little fresh gelato was found – somehow required to finish an evening.

With all this eating and food appreciation, I learned a few things about myself. My Uncle had actually first pointed it out when I was visiting him in Montreal - over breakfast and my appreciation for a very good fresh croissant, my Uncle started to chuckle ... he said that my entire family all made mmmm noises as we ate good food. Quite audible appreciation really. He thought my father was the instigator (certainly couldn't have been his sister, my mother) and he'd noticed it with all of us. I shared this with the girls and I have to say, they concurred - that along with my pretty consistent 'very good' comments made them chuckle - and me much more aware ... ah well, at least you know if I like it right? :-)

I was really going to miss the girls when they left - particularly at meal times. Their great companionship of course but compounded by the fact that eating in Greece is such a communal event - you don't order your dish but rather a few to share - after all, who could eat an entire plate of grilled octopus for a meal - but a little, with some salad, some saganaki and tzatziki with bread - now that was a meal! I really wasn't sure how I was going to do that on my own ...

Looking back, it was a fabulous week - relaxing times on the beach, wonderful swimming/splashing about, enough exploration to keep us entertained and some great meals and a lot of really good laughs. We've said we'll be back in 10 years and I'm definitely in! C&S, it was an absolute blast and a great way to kick off my adventures - thank you!

Santorini - The Dress Made it Out

2009-07-27T13:43:00.000-07:00

For those of you who read the earlier post of the Amish dress … well, one of my traveling companions was one of those who had a very good laugh at the Amish dress and told me in no uncertain terms, it had to go. So I trust her fashion sense. Well, unfortunately, I was not to be immune this vacation either … as we were out on our boat doing a lot of swimming, my bikini bottoms were unfortunately critiqued – yes they might have been a little old and maybe even a little big … but still, 'nanny knickers' hardly seemed fair ... that's what you get for traveling with two blunt Aussies ... needless to say, they were ceremoniously disposed of that night (after drinks) and a new more figure flattering bikini was purchased the next day ...

Then there is the story of the Dress – the one that I was told explicitly should be worn. Well we decided to head out to Fira on one of our last nights, the main town on Santorini, a cliff top town known for it's magical sunsets. The girls were going out and the pretty dresses were being worn! We looked good, if I do say so myself - and you'd be able to see if I can fix this damn picture thing ...

We headed first for a 'sunset' bar - one of the many, many patios that line the top of the hill and provide a wonderful view of both the town and the sunset. (When you look across and down, you can see all the buildings that go up the cliff - mostly hotels with magical looking pools and rooms that must go right into the cliff.) After our one, very "view" priced drink and many photos snapped, we headed off to explore the town - very busy with everyone out wandering, shopping and eating. One of my friends had been here twice before - 10 and 16 years ago if I get it right - and both times had been to this one particular restaurant, so we were off memory hunting. We managed to find it and had a lovely dinner - it was one of many rooftop places away from the cliff, family run and friendly - the best places are - with good food and a little ouzo to boot.

At a certain point, we decided to head back to Kamari and continue from there - we needed to say we'd been to at least one club on the trip ... there was one we'd walked by many times and the gentleman out front seemed just that, a gentleman - so we tried it out. Well, we can say we've been - not sure if it was the fact that it was a Sunday night, or we were just tired from our exhausting vacation but, by one drink, we were done.

All in all, it was a very fun night out and I can at least now say, the Dress has been worn!

Santorini - Touring the Island ... With Bessie

2009-07-27T13:23:00.000-07:00

By about day 2 we were getting a little restless – time to explore!

Our first excursion was a package – go out in a boat and explore 3 of the more remote beaches. It was great – one of those boats where they drop anchor off the beach, you jump in and swim ashore – the horn sounds and you swim back in time to head off to the next beach. The two highlights were the Red Beach and the White Beach – both just stunning – though the Red was very busy – I'll take the more remote, little less spectacular any day. It also became clear quite quickly that I am not the world's most proficient swimmer to say the least … the head above water thing certainly doesn't help but the crazy fish kick that goes with my breast stroke is also more than a little weak. If the pacific ever warms up enough to get me in regularly, I might just need to invest in some swimming lessons – now that will make my family chuckle ...

The next day, we struck out on our own – the idea was to rent 3 scooters and tour the island ... however, once the guy realized that I had never driven one before, I got given the nanny mobile – an ATV ... seriously, I had a grandmother who in her 80's could have and would have driven it. I felt like a child and was more than a little frustrated – as I said to the guy repeatedly in a fairly petulant tone, so how do I learn? How do I learn? I didn't get an answer - the Dad, proud owner and mechanic of said fleet said no, and no it would be.

I worked hard to be positive but what finally did the trick was when I tried to drive one of my friend's scooters, and after an initial good go, I proceeded to almost drive off the road down a path and in my effort to regain control, slightly scratched the scooter (I was absolutely fine). My romanticized memories of riding a scooter when last in Greece (all be that as a passenger sitting behind a cute guy) that I was trying to recapture, succumbed to realizing I really don't have that good hand brake/accelerator control - though if asked, I blame short legs. Maybe my ATV wasn't so bad after all … we became friends and I named her Bessie. (Our karma was good as we didn't end up having to pay for the scratches on either scooter – after the way I behaved at the outset, I'm sure there's a lesson in there for me … one I just need to remember in the moment next time.)

We then spent the next two days exploring the beaches and towns of Santorini – it was great. One of my favorites was a little fishing spot with great rocks to swim off – followed by lunch of the most amazingly fresh calamari – life is good. We also explored the town of Ia – a cliff top town where the all white buildings are built into the side of the cliff and the narrow streets wind there way along the top. It was stunning – and very popular with the tourists – but we managed to get out of the crowd and found a lovely cafe overlooking the ocean – view prices but the best home made chocolate ice cream I've had in a very long time.

By the end of the second day, Bessie and I had become good friends – I fully appreciated her stability and steadfastness – especially when I took her up the hill beside our beach the following morning. Gravel and coblestones on a narrow switchback road that just climbed up, and up and up. At the top was the archeological site of 'Old Fira' (the capital town) as well as the most incredible view of Kamari and the beach. I think I stopped every 500 feet on the way down to take a picture. It was a fitting final adventure with Bessie.

Santorini - Wow, I'm Really Here!!

2009-07-27T12:45:00.000-07:00

We've been on the plane for a couple of hours (after a 3.30am taxi pickup to get to the airport on time ...) and all of a sudden I look out the window and see the amazing blue of the Mediterranean and it hits me – I'm really here and this trip is real – wow, I'm excited!

Within 2 hours of landing, we are at the beach and shortly thereafter in the ocean – incredible! We're staying in Kamari (best place on the island I've decided) – it is quite a small town with a main boardwalk beside the beach where the majority of the restaurants and shops are. We're lucky – our hotel is right on the boardwalk and there is a lovely courtyard pool inside or else beach chairs right outside – hard to get more perfect than this!

The first couple of days are spent unwinding by the pool with dips into the ocean – it took us a few days to figure out the 'towel' protocol with the beach chairs but once done, we're right out front by the waters edge. While I am not a water baby (really don't like putting my head under), I do love being in the ocean – when it is warm! We're on a lovely little bay which is quite protected by a side of rock and so swimming – or my version thereof – is just lovely. (I've invented a new stroke – “the chair” - sit upright in the water, kick your legs and use your arms to pull you backwards – not the most efficient I'll grant but very pleasant and effective when going into the wind and surf!)

I think it was by the 2nd day as I was puttering in the water, that I realized, there is really no reason not to come back to Europe and travel more frequently – it's been 11 years since I left, and while I've been back on business, never for vacation. Now granted, it took me about 5 years to vacation at all, but why keep flying to Hawaii or Mexico when there is just so much here. Requires saving of course – but every couple of years seems feasible ... we'll see how I do going forward but that is my thinking at the minute!

All in all, I think this is going to be a most excellent vacation! Or shall I say, very, very nice indeed.

PS - sorry technical issues preventing the uploading of pictures ... but maybe that is better?

London - A Quick Pit Stop

2009-07-27T12:31:00.000-07:00

I love London. I lived here for so long and know it so well, it is instantly familiar as soon as I step off the plane. Whether walking through M&S, along the highstreet or waiting for the underground, it is just so very comfortable. It is nice to be back.

I am only here for a day before we fly out to Santorini – just enough time to get over a little jet lag, have dinner in a pub garden (I do love them), do a few errands and repack my bags ... literally everything out and then everything back in ... (when I left Vancouver I had tried to pack for all three trips – Europe, Africa and India and now only take what I needed for Europe – it was a process ...).

I also managed to get to a yoga class at the London Iyengar Yoga Institute – it was good - the first class I had been to in a while and it was perfect for my jet lagged state with lots of stretching, forward bends and twists – I felt re-energized. The institute is lovely – set in the residential Maida Vale neighborhood, it is back from the street in a purpose built building with lots of windows – the light and the greenery outside all make their way in. The teacher was good – though I was surprised by the lack of the hands on corrections – not sure if it is just him or the "institute" (I always wonder a little at places that call themselves that ...). My one key take away from his class was what he called our second knee – right above the real one – it was a good metaphor for the experience of lifting your quad when working to pull up your legs.

The friend I am staying with rents from a woman whom I had met when I was last here, a little over a year ago – we were at surprisingly similar places in our lives – same age, both about to leave senior positions in organizations we'd been with for a long time and contemplating what to do with our time off / what next. However, shortly after, she was diagnosed with breast cancer – since then she's been through chemotherapy, radiation, surgery and now more chemotherapy. Clearly our last 12 months, which once might have been quite similar, have been dramatically different. We had some good conversations and I give her huge credit for how she is living – a lot of courage, fortitude and exploration – she's leveraging alternative therapies and has put a lot of focus on her nutrition, which seems to have had a really positive impact on how she's responded to the side effects of her treatment and overall state of well being. I admire her and my fingers are crossed that she'll get an all clear at the end of this course of chemo. I was struck hard with a “but here by the grace of God go I” moment. Life is unpredictable at best – to be treasured and lived to the fullest each day.

The Next Adventure

2009-07-27T12:21:00.000-07:00

Before I left on my US trip, I knew I also wanted to do more travel in the summer/fall – to really take advantage of this wonderful opportunity of time that I have.

So, this adventure – where will I go? Since I left work, I have wanted to go and volunteer in Africa. When I was in Bali, and with my interest in yoga, I became more curious to visit India. And I knew that I had to go back to Europe – even having lived there for 8 years in the 1990's, there was still more I want to see. I also realized that while I originally went there to backpack, I ended up working – so maybe now, after 20 years of pretty much all work, it was time to backpack!

I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out what of all these options, I really wanted to do. Then one day, speaking to a friend, I realized I could do it all – I have the time, so why not - just go! Europe in the summer and Africa and India in the fall using London as a home base.

The plan then started to take concrete shape when I had the invitation to join friends on a weeks vacation on Santorini in Greece in July. I decided to go when I realized that from there I could explore more of the Greek Islands (as I was there …) and then go from there to Italy – which I had never been to and always wanted to visit – Rome, Florence and Sienna where my 3 destinations.

In terms of India – I had purposely gone to a workshop in Denver by an Indian Iyengar yoga teacher, Swati Chanchani as she and her husband run intensive yoga programs in India. I applied and am going to two of their intensives (since I am there) from the end of September to mid November. I realized just how excited I was with my reaction to the confirmation – yippee!!

With regards to Africa – I do still want to go, but have struggled with how and with what organization. Ideally, I would like to just go to Capetown and see where it takes me, but I am not comfortalbe doing that on my own. And from what I've read over the last year, I've become more disillusioned about the bigger aid organizations – including the UN from my visit there in NY. I decided to try and go with Habitat for Hummanity but this hasn't quite come together yet so I am still exploring – hoping to get something nailed down soon given that September is just around the corner.

So – at the minute, after a fabulous week on Santorini, I am in a little hotel on Mykonos in Greece getting this blog thing together and enjoying the easy lifestyle of the Greek Islands – beach or to blog, it's a tough choice! The lovely thing is, for which I'm very grateful, that this is truly my time – to explore, to just hang out and relax – above all, a chance to be present with myself in some pretty amazing places.

Back Blogging - Finally ...

2009-07-27T12:08:00.000-07:00

Hello – it has been a while since I've written … as you can tell, I got behind in New York and never caughts up ...

I had a great 6 days in New York followed by 2 wonderful weeks in Ontario for a family wedding and visiting relatives and friends that I hadn't seen in years – a really, really good visit :-) I then headed back home – along the top of the US through some amazing countryside. It was a much faster trip back than the way out, especially once I'd decided to start my next adventure mid July - I knew I needed at least two weeks at home for the turn around … and it was a great, crazy couple of weeks!

I am going to retroactively catch up on my blog – just need to find some time to upload what I've written. As well, I'm starting to blog about this trip (already two weeks in and amazing!). So for those of you subscribed, I apologize in advance for the confused entries that will follow – it will be a bit of a time warp I fear …

One of the things that has surprised me, is just how much I'm enjoying blogging – I've missed it this last month + as I see/experience things and want to comment. I am looking forward to getting caught up and then keeping going – though likely not in such a 'daily' way as before. I hope you're enjoying it … and not throwing too many darts at the PC - I've been told by a few how jealous I'm making them for which, while I feel bad, I just can't quite apologize for …. just know, that I know how truly fortunate I am and how determined I am to make the most of this time and opportunity :-)

Editor's note – about 10 minutes after writing the above para, the ferry I was on really hit rough waters and about 30 minutes later and for the duration of the journey, I was sick like I have very rarely been sick before … karma kick'n me in the ass … :-)

Saturday, June 20th - Happiness Is ...

2009-06-20T21:34:00.001-07:00

Being back ‘on the road again’ – really it’s true, I like the driving – a kind of freedom and power – I can just go …

Listening to the very last ounce of CBC reception after crossing into the US – I actually heard Gordon Campbell interviewed – he seems to be trying to take a national leadership role on EI reform … a worrying sign he may be considering national politics???? We know he can’t/really shouldn’t run for a fourth term in BC … and there could be a couple federal leadership roles open the next few years … my Machiavellian brain at work ....

Having my IPOD connected to my car speakers – Yeah! Yeah! Yeah!!! Of all things through a fake tape device (that goes in the tape deck I hadn’t realized I had until a few weeks ago …) and many, many thanks to my next generation cousin who knows about these wonderful things :-)

Realizing just how content I am - and how little it takes to be content. I've had this feeling a number of times on this trip when all is just right with the world. and Realizing just how lucky I am too.

Being in 25 degree sunny weather walking along the Chicago lake shore – so nice to see the sun again (it’s been a little scarce these last few weeks ….)

Figuring out how to get myself out of a very frustrated bad mood brought on being stuck, gridlock stuck, for 2 hours in traffic (visit Chicago by public transit only is my conclusion) –done by eating a very good home made brownie, being conscious about it and finding some music to enjoy – and it worked.

Eating grilled salmon, broccoli and Florentine rice take out for dinner (from Boston Pizza no less) – sitting in a nice updated little hotel with free wireless and quite good television for a Saturday night (Eli Stone really shouldn’t have been cancelled …)

Catching up with a very good friend on skype, as well as my parents – I’ve figured out how to call land lines - so easy, I wish I'd done it earlier. Speaking with people from home reminds me just how much I miss them and how very nice it will be to be home soon catching up with everyone in person.

Getting back to doing blog entries – a good thing I like it as I have a few to catch up on ….

Realizing a dream - and knowing it's possible. Now to just keep dreaming and realizing.

Happiness is ... is one of my favourite expressions :-)

Thursday, June 4th - Goodbye NYC, I'll be Back Soon

2009-06-20T17:52:00.001-07:00

My last day in New York City – I was going to miss both the city and the yoga studio and was determined to get one last class in before check-out.

I had a great class – it was with a teacher, who was also a former dancer. She was very aware of who was in the class – recognized that she'd never taught me before and introduced herself and checked in with me (almost a measure in my mind of a good teacher – and so many Iyengar teachers do this).

The class was excellent – again, very clearly a level 3 class. One of the things I've really liked about the studio is that they have single level classes versus the mixed level classes. A level 3 class is different from a level 2 class – there are different expectations and it pushes me in a different and good way. Both Monday and today's classes were more like some of the workshops I've done and it was nice to have the opportunity to revisit that style in a class. Her demonstrations were excellent and the class just had this very active energy to it. I left with a real spring in my step.

Then back to the hotel to finish packing and reclaim my car ... one of the downsides to driving to both NYC and DC is the extortionate cost of parking at hotels e.g. $50+ / day ... so in NYC I'd decided to go independent as there was a parking lot just a block and a half away – one of those cool places where they put your car in what looks like storage for toy cars ... I walked by many times and chuckled when I saw my car about 4 stories up! It was quite a relief to have the car safely away – driving in NY terrifies me – just far too busy with too many people, cars, crazy drivers and one way streets. Give me the metro any day!

I managed to get out of the city – thank you Jane – and had the same surreal experience going back through the Lincoln tunnel that I had coming in ... as I was leaving, I promised myself, I would be back much more often – every couple of years at least – I've concluded that it is the perfect 'girls weekend' city – lots of great theatre, food, shopping, yoga and cafes – what else do you need! And I think I have some takers for next spring – anyone else want to join?

Wednesday, June 3rd - The Ballet & King Geoffrey

2009-06-20T17:51:00.001-07:00

Another culture day!

But first more yoga – a morning class which while good, neither the structure of the class or the teacher jived with me in the way the other classes had. However, she did help me with my shoulders which was much appreciated – as a matter of fact, all of the teachers have ... I think my shoulders must send out a beacon or something – help me, help me, help me …

Back to the hotel to change and then up to the Metropolitan Opera House – I was going to the ballet! It was the matinee performance and it was packed! I studied ballet for many years as a child/teenager and used to see many of the productions that came to Vancouver. But I've haven't been to the ballet in years and years – and I've missed it! This was the American Ballet Theatre's new season and it was a series of ballets all to Prokofiev's music. A good mix of different pieces all beautifully danced. I was sitting beside a woman who was an incredibly devoted fan of the ballet – when the season was on, she attended EVERY performance – seriously, she'd been there the previous night and was going to be back later for the evening performance and then again tomorrow etc. etc. The great thing for me, was that she knew everything about the company, the dancers and the ballets – we had great chats through both intermissions and I appreciated the performance much more thanks to her.

From there, I headed to Broadway. After dinner in a traditional busy NY deli (very, very hard to be vegetarian ...) I was off to see Exit the King at the Barrymore Theatre with Geoffrey Rush, Susan Sarandon, Lauren Ambrose and Andrea Martin. It was simply put, a fantastic production! The play is a political satire written in the late 60s and just as relevant now … It is about a king who has been in power just a touch too long, say 300+ years or so if I recall correctly. So long in fact that his kingdom has decayed to such an extent that it only exists as far as the back of the theatre and it is time, long, long overdue, for the King to die – which happens over the course of the 2 hours. Sound familiar anyone???

Geoffrey Rush was simply superb – he won the Tony for his performance and it was incredibly deserving. And the rest of the cast was brilliant – well Susan Sarandon may have been the weaker link, but the pop culture fan in me was still thrilled to see her perform live. I was sitting about 6 rows from the front (much prefer to be up close for a play) and I could see everything - the expressions on their face, the makeup starting to drip a little from the exertion of an incredibly physical performance and the occasional 'off camera' glances between the cast during the production. It was great.

My NYC culture days reminded me how much I really do enjoy it – and miss living in London – though I never saw as much as I should have there. I just need to get out there and enjoy the theatre and ballet that come to Vancouver ... and get to New York more often!

Tuesday, June 2nd - Culture Starts Today

2009-06-20T17:48:00.000-07:00

I decided after all the wonderful 'hanging out' I'd done, that I needed my last 2 days in the city to be culture days – e.g. the theater, ballet and a couple of tourist attractions I hadn't seen in previous trips.

I was up and out bright and early – first stop, the UN Headquarters for one of their tours. I'm going to do a separate post on my UN experience – mostly because I was quite disillusioned and it really, really wound me up ... I'll put some kind of disclaimer on the post – Sue on her soapbox, read at own risk.

After the UN, I walked up through Midtown East towards Central Park. When I'd been in New York before with Citibank, I'd worked at the headquarter building on Park at 54th ... I wanted to walk by again and reminisce a little. The crazy thing was that I had actually brought good shoes with me so that when I walked in the fast paced work energy of that neighborhood, I would feel like I fit in … so I stepped into a little diner, bought a bottle of water and tried to subtly change my shoes. Then I'm out, walking along, all purpose and business like ... for all of about 10 blocks ... at which point my feet hurt and I thought, what the f*** am I doing, and proceeded to change my shoes ... there's an ego lesson here somewhere I'm sure!

Central Park is incredible – I'd only ever skirted around the edges before – this time I walked through about half of it ... it is huge!!! It was a hot day and the park was beautiful – definitely a welcome haven of cool green within the chaos of the city.

I made it to the Metropolitan Museum of Art – a museum I'd always wanted to see but never made it to until now. It was beautiful from the outside – a magnificent building. But inside, I've never been so overwhelmed ... it is huge and, I've been in a lot of museums so feel ok saying this, the most difficult to navigate museum I've ever been in ... There were two things I was able to find that I absolutely loved – the impressionists section which was really quite incredible. And then, my favorite, the roof garden – it was stunning with the most amazing views over Central Park and the buildings of New York along the edges. They also had a very cool exhibit there – very funky modern art sculpture – almost like wild tree branches strewn over the patio. When I was there, all I could think was what an amazing place for a cocktail party or reception – it just wowed me!

That evening, was the theatre – a little political intrigue which I thought appropriate given the theme of my trip ... I saw Mary Stuart, an English production and the story of the last few days before Elizabeth signs Mary’s death warrant. It was a powerhouse play for the two lead actresses – including a fictionalized scene between the two – with great performances from the original English cast – both Tony nominated.

I was exhausted by the end of the day – and energized all at the same time- I do love New York!

Sun, May 31st & Mon, Jun 1st - More Neighborhoods, More Yoga

2009-06-06T21:10:00.000-07:00

Lovely days just hanging out, exploring different neighborhoods and taking great yoga classes!

Sunday was Little Italy in the morning – I was looking for brunch and stumbled across a place which looked cool – brick building with big open windows and lots of people inside. Once inside, I realized it was Public, a Micheline 1 star restaurant – had to stay, just to say I’ve eaten at a 1 star … and the food looked and smelled great … and it was … my first read of the NY Post while eating my first eggs benedict with spinach and smoked salmon – usually the sauce turns me off but this was really, really good :-)

I walked from there to the yoga studio in midtown – the third time I'd done the walk and the beauty was, each time was like the first with new streets to wonder and explore. The yoga studio has workshops each Sunday afternoon and luckily enough, this week was all about shoulders – this has been and continues to be a theme ... The class was great – very focused on understanding the anatomy and then doing some of the basic poses with a focus on where the shoulders should be. What stuck me most was how the shoulders do need to be held or kept, almost tucked, into position, not falling out or letting go. Depending on which direction your body is going, sideways, upside down, it requires a different focus on where your shoulders should be. At least I think that's right. What I appreciated most was almost the applied anatomy aspect of the session – I'd like to be able to do similar sessions with other parts of the body such as the back, the hips and over and over, the shoulders!

Monday, I continued to develop my expertise for brunch! (This has long been my favorite meal of the day – in large part as it's been something I could cook … one day, it may even turn into a business – who knows!!)

After a stroll through Wall Street and a quick pass of Ground Zero, (I always feel the need to visit my banker friends in this city for some reason), I walked over the Brooklyn Bridge - it was amazing! I’ve always loved bridges, especially those with great architectural structure and lights (Battersea in London is my favorite) – I think they are stunning, particularly at night - and this one is no exception. It also has all these pop culture references that made it quite surreal to walk across.

While exploring Brooklyn I found Teresa’s Café – a cross between a modern café and an old school greasy spoon. Definitely less upscale than Sunday – and I have to say, I’m enjoying my feta and spinach omlette with tomato on the side much more! It’s really, really good and something to be tried at home because the spinach and feta are in nice moderation and mixed right into the egg versus being clumped in the middle (I’ve had that before and it’s a mistake ...).

I enjoyed Brooklyn, with all the lovely brownstones and a little of the New York edge mixed in with a real residential feel. I will say, in all my wanderings of the city, I am realizing just how not trendy I am ... I’m not wearing one of skinny jeans, short shorts, flouncy dresses with leggings, gladiator shoes, metalic shoes or flip flops …. However, at least me and my flowing hippy style skirt aren’t coming across as a complete tourist either given the number of people who’ve asked me for directions. I guess that’s the great thing about this city – there is just so much here, there is room for everyone and their style!

The day finished with a really excellent yoga class – a senior teacher and a true level 3 class. He led us through what for me was an advanced practice with very little demonstration - he expected us to know what we were doing. It was meant to complement a good home practice – and it really would. The highlights for me were a chair shoulder stand with a different but very interesting setup as well as pranyama embedded into the class. I left feeling incredibly energized.

And a brief yoga fashion comment … I've been surprised throughout the US, and especially in New York by just how many women are wearing what I call 'funny yoga shorts' that previously I'd only seen worn by a couple of our visiting male yoga teachers. They are the shorts which have a tight band right at the top of the thigh with loose material above covering one's butt – kind of like very, very short circus pants … not the most flattering but I can see how they are practical in the heat ... we'll see how long it takes them to show up in Vancouver! (another trend I won't be following anytime soon ...)

Saturday, May 30th - Exploring in NYC (w/ the Prez)

2009-06-06T20:21:00.000-07:00

Today is a day for just exploring a few neighborhoods in NYC - with no particular destination in mind – walking, browsing, sitting, eating, typing, walking, browsing, sitting, eating, typing and then again … throw in some great people watching, a beautiful blue sky and you get the idea ...

A banana from a sidewalk vendor, and I’m off for a walk through Chinatown. Then briefly into the Federal area – another pop culture moment as I recognized the court house steps from the many Law & Order series …. Then to Hudson Street and a brunch place I’d heard of - Bubby’s - had a very trendy vibe - I succumbed to the sourdough pancakes and yes, they were good!

Back walking - all the way up Hudson, through great neighborhoods, then down Bleecker - increasingly busy as I go - great shopping and puttering on Bleecker in particular. Then, break time - I found a great little French café (does seem to be a theme …) for afternoon tea and fruit salad. I really wanted (and almost ordered) a café au lait … and I must admit, drinking my tea, I did wonder ‘why the hell not’ … I’ll just have to go back or find another French café to have a little coffee again - maybe Montreal.

I’m on my way again, through Greenwich Village, and all of a sudden, I see all these cops, cop cars and crowds – I wander up curious as ever and ask – who, what? It is President Obama and Michelle on their 'date night' at a restaurant on a little street off of 6^th Avenue – he’s following me and I still can’t get a picture! I love this pic of New York’s finest and just seeing how they set up for this kind of visit – he really can’t go anywhere quietly from what I can tell … It was cool to see how excited people were, and how positive – definitely still the honeymoon phase and here’s hoping it lasts!

Wandering again - saw a basketball game on the corner behind a fence, Washington Square with people just 'hanging out', through a street market – fresh bar bq’d corn, a real treat. Dinner in a small spot - the best true veggie burger I’ve ever had on a spinach salad – I have a new challenge to recreate it. Then an excellent French film, Summer Hours, at an independent film theatre - a huge selection of films in this city - I love it!

Final walk of the day was back to the hotel through Soho - such a lovely summer evening with everyone out enjoying themselves - I did miss having someone to hang out with on an outside patio - having a glass of wine and watching the world go by. And still, a really wonderful day in New York City :-)

Friday, May 29th - Pop Culture in New York City

2009-06-06T14:17:00.000-07:00

They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day – and also the one I’ve struggled with most on this trip … but today, best breakfast I’ve had so far – freshly scrambled eggs in a hoagie bun from a street vendor – basically I can say I had the Philly cheese steak hoagie sandwich, just without the steak or cheese – it was perfect!

After a brief wander through downtown Philly, I headed off for New York City – and almost immediately, I was getting onto the New Jersey turnpike – it was a bit of a surreal moment – one of those roads you hear so much of in the movies or on TV. I realized this was likely to be the pop culture part of my tour …. That was reinforced as I went through the toll station, and then drove through the Lincoln tunnel (best analogy I can think of is that it was like driving through the insides of a very long snake – again, surreal …) and then as I arrive in Manhattan, on my immediate right is a NYPD station with the cars all parked out front on angle – can you say NYPD Blues … so cool, and yes, I acknowledge, I may be admitting just how much ‘pop culture’ / tv & movies I’ve enjoyed over the years …

I am in a great hotel – another awesome Hotwire deal – right in the middle of Chinatown, Little Italy, Soho and Tribeca. The first time I’ve stayed below midtown – and the area of NYC I’ve explored the least. I am just a little excited - this is something I’ve always wanted to do – spend a week just ‘hanging out’ in NYC.

I’m also, on purpose, close to the NYC Iyengar Yoga Institute – so I hopped the metro for 4 stations and was there … It is a great space – another office building / 11^th floor yoga studio but it doesn’t have an office feel – instead lots of brick, really good sized studios with high ceilings and open windows with a lovely breeze. It was a good class and good teacher – helped me with my shoulders – one day I will get there …. I’ll be here often this week …

A quick falafel dinner and then I walked back to the hotel - along Broadway, through Union Square - very, very cool to be here.

Thursday, May 28th - The Amish & The Dress

2009-06-03T22:53:00.000-07:00

The end of my time in DC – I explored Georgetown and the Washington National Cathedral on my way out of town. Georgetown was fun – it really reminded me of an English high-street – except with the great French café on the corner which was perfect for brunch. (Though the 'Junior League' building threw me a little - I guess, these organizations really do exist ...) The Cathedral is magnificent in grandeur but at the same time, keeps true to just being a church - there was a midday service on when I was there which was nice to see. For me, of all the capital buildings, it demonstrates most the commitment of the city's forefathers to building/creating history e.g. a Gothic style church to rival those in Europe built in the 20th Century. I hadn't realized that DC was literally purpose built to house the new government after the revolution - the Cathedral was one of the last buildings built I believe - yet looks the oldest!

I was then off for New York via Philly via the Amish in Lancaster County, PA. I’m not sure exactly why, but I’d always wanted to see the Amish - I think I was curious to see how much of their traditional life they'd been able to hold on to in the 21st century. And despite other tourists like myself coming to gawk, they seem to have held on. It was beautiful countryside, very peaceful with the horse and buggy's going down the road. I stopped in a few shops to admire the quilts and then went into a grocery store in search of water - their life was alive and well and I was definitely the outsider here.

There was an advantage to the detour … the dress … I have two very good and patient friends who both spent considerable time with me going through my closet and providing exceedingly honest ‘give it, keep it, just throw it’ advice … and there were a few things in said closet that gave them both a great deal of amusement … one of these, was what they called the ‘Amish’ dress. Both laughed out loud (I’m really not kidding) when they saw it – and even more so once they saw it on. To give myself a little credit, while yes I did buy it a very long time ago …. I’ve never worn it – surely that has to count for something??? Anyway, I was out for brunch with both shortly before leaving and they decided that as I was going, the perfect one time wear of the dress should be when I was in Amish country – well, here’s to you girls, I did it – and hope you appreciate the picture :-)

Now I do want to put a disclaimer here – all potentially perceived mockery is entirely self-directed. None is intended for the Amish themselves – for whom I have the highest respect and appreciation for how they choose to live their lives. Really, no insult to them is at all intended and I hopefully none taken .... :-)

I arrived in Philly in time for dinner with an old friend from Crystal days – it was really nice to catch up with him – he knows his politics and so we had a great discussion on the recent election and some of my impressions on my travels to date – blue states, red states, Obama, Hillary, Bush etc. etc. Even the impact on the US of the Declaration of Independence having been written in Philadelphia (historically a more open liberal society back then with Quaker roots as compared to Boston for example.) It was great fun. He also gave me a driving tour of Philly – a very cool city from what I could tell – lots of brick and different neighborhoods all within a fairly small space - it felt like a very livable city, especially with the BYOB restaurants!

Wednesday, May 27th - Ideal Day, Both Politics & Yoga

2009-06-03T21:10:00.000-07:00

Today was back to politics with:

a tour of the Capital Buildings - quite the organization, processing what must be thousands of tourists a day with a good visitors centre. You don't get to see a lot of the complex, but at least I was able to see the House of Representatives - I was surprised as it was really quite small - it seems much bigger on TV
breakfast in the canteen - congress not in session so pretty much just tourists and a lot of students ... read the DC free daily Politico - all the latest political scoop with a little inside DC gossip for entertainment - fun!
then the Supreme Court - another wow – impressive and really interesting to hear how the history and how they operate today including how they manage their caseload and actual presentations of cases (their questions to the lawyers are often to highlight points to the other justices) - very topical given the announcement of the new nominee to the bench.

Then a little culture in the afternoon with a visit to the National Gallery of Art where I got a surprise - as I was walking through one of the halls on my way to the impressionists, I turn a corner and there in front of me was the painting I grew up with, A Young Girl Reading by Jean-Honore Fragonard ... I still have the old framed print at home (never having known how rare the original was) - something I'd tried to give away recently in a spring cleaning binge but I just couldn't - so I bought another smaller print to frame and keep - a connection to my childhood. It made me smile. I enjoyed the rest of the museum - they have an excellent impressionist collection (my art focus) and the entire museum is housed in a really beautiful building, with two lovely indoor conservatories - with comfortable chairs and tea - just perfect!

Finally, that evening, I made it to a yoga class. The main Iyengar studios in DC are Unity Woods founded by one of the well known US Iyengar teachers, John Schumacher. I'd heard of him from the folks in Denver and I was very curious to try a class. I didn't get to one of his classes but enjoyed the teacher I had (she helped with my lotus/padmasana attempt which I appreciated). Unfortunately, it was my first disappointing experience with a studio - it was their Woodland Park location and was entirely underground with no windows ... light and fresh air make all the difference. I'm also not entirely convinced on studios being built up around just one teacher, no matter how good they may be - it risks becoming too centered on that individual and their style as opposed to having a breadth of influencers all contributing to the community. So far the best example I've seen of the latter is at the Denver studio which was co-founded by 3 or 4 teachers.

I also had a realization today - I’m getting better at ‘letting things go’ in the moment. Generally, if something doesn't go as planned / as I've wanted, I've stewed, often berating myself or others for it not working out. I think this more flexible, less 'planned' travel is paying off - I'm less attached to a plan and so able to detach more when things evolve differently than I might have imagined. It's a good thing.

Tuesday, May 26th - I Was a Spy in Kandahar

2009-06-03T15:56:00.000-07:00

A slower day today – and a lot less walking than yesterday! I headed to the mall to see how much of the Smithsonian I could see – not a lot as it turned out … With so much choice, I decided to keep with my theme of American political history and so headed for the National Museum of American History and (based on the recommendations of the Director who I met in the lift) saw some excellent exhibits including dresses of First Ladies, pictures from the 2009 inauguration day, the life history of Abe Lincoln, an overview of the American Presidency and, I must admit, most impressive was the original star spangled banner. I was surprised actually how many references to the war of 1812 there were here - though the war is not known as the one 'Canada won' (as we are taught in school .... or maybe it's just how I remember it ...) but rather the one where England beat them back - and at the same time more firmly established them as a new country with a national anthem.

I then headed off for my scheduled appointment at the International Spy Museum ... I was really looking forward to this as they promised a real spy experience ... and they delivered - it was an activity where you pretend you are a spy in Kandahar and you go through a series of exercises/tests with a group – just how observant are you, how well do you listen, can you use a remote camera system to follow a suspect, unscramble a voice recording and ultimately, solve the puzzle. It was really well done and just a blast to do – and let’s just say, it’s a good thing I’m not a spy! (though I did pick the right outcome in the end .... black ops all the way!) The main part of the museum was more traditional with the history of espionage but they had very cool examples of early spy craft tools including the lipstick gun ... They also had stories of actual spy’s – both the good guys (e.g. members of WW II resistors) and the bad – the infamous British and American double agents. It was a really cool museum – and one I had no idea about before I arrived – a highlight! It brought all those Len Deighton books I read so long ago back to life.

For the evening, I had hoped to try and find a couple of the ‘political’ bars to hang out in - and had thought it shouldn’t be a problem - I had the addresses and the DC streets are clearly laid out … unfortunately, it wasn't til later that I realized the SW versus SE does have a big impact on the addresses - ah well, next time. I was definitely missing my political debating friends back home ....

But in my wandering I did at least explore the outside of the Capital Buildings and would have had a good view for the inauguration had the time been right!

Monday, May 25th - Memorial Day w/ President Obama

2009-05-31T06:43:00.000-07:00

Washington was the only destination on my trip where I knew I wanted to be there on a certain date, Memorial Day. The reason – some of the big DC draws for me were the memorials: Vietnam, WW II, Arlington – and what better day to visit than Memorial Day.

So I was up early to head to Arlington for the Presidential wreath laying service – I wasn’t sure how early to head, but as soon as I got off the subway – with everyone else on the train – I knew I might have left it a little late … so I boogied – those who know me, know I can walk fast and this was likely the fastest I’ve walked the entire trip! A good 2k up a hill in the heat of a lovely day – but I still missed the amphitheatre seating by about 5 minutes – ah well, I had a good spot in the overflow section, literally sitting amongst the headstones. First, we all were eagerly waiting, cameras in hand - would we see the President arrive? a lot of black cars, cops and secret service, but no President. So find a comfy seat in the grass and shade and listen - we could hear beautifully - the music was wonderful and then the keynote, President Obama. It was incredible to hear him live - a moment in history. His speech was good - acknowledgement that while he hadn't served, he knew the importance of the military, calling them the 'best of America'.

After the service, I headed against the flow of people to see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and almost ran right into Bob and Elizabeth Dole - maybe not the President, but I can still say, I've seen a major political leader up close! I then took a slower path back through Arlington – by the Kennedy memorials (Robert’s was stunning in its simplicity – pictured).

The walking tour continued as I headed back across the Potomac to the Vietnam Wall for that memorial service in the afternoon. A completely different feel to service vs. Arlington; smaller, less formal and much more personal. There were tears in many eyes with a speaker's story of when she served in Iraq - a story that illustrated why they risk and sacrifice their lives: for each other, the people they serve with side by side. There were a lot of Vietnam vets present and it feels like such a 'present' war for them still. The emotional finish was Sam Moore (of Sam & Dave) singing Amazing Grace. There truly is a steep price for war, paid on a very individual basis.

The walk continued as I headed back towards the Potomac and by the Franklin Roosevelt and Thomas Jefferson memorials - both very impressive and moving. Walking back, I was trying to think, of the recent Presidents, whose historical view will rise to the point where they are memorialized in such a way - have to say, no one was jumping to mind, though my fingers are crossed for the current incumbent.

I finished the day with a walk to Dupont Circle - it was a cool neighborhood and I’d heard of a bookstore that also had a 24 hr restaurant which I had to check out. It was cool – great selection of books and really good food. Though I resisted buying any books – especially given the very large bag of them I have in my trunk – none of which I’ve touched … I’m very, very slowly still working my way through Clinton’s memoirs. This is not a reading holiday it seems :-)

The end of a really good day - my feet were a little tired but I slept really well.

Sunday, May 24th (part 2) - I'm Still Canadian ...

2009-05-27T22:00:00.001-07:00

Given my last post ... and to prove I still really am Canadian, I thought I'd better include a couple of the more ironic things I saw ....

So, can you say, political wedding ...

And what, a Lincoln town car in front of the AFL-CIO offices ....

:-)